Harlequin

Just link to the relevant manufacturer's page for that product so that their live stock levels are shown. That way you don't need to keep the list up to date (er, so much).

It looks like that notch is designed to clear one of the cross beams under the coach floor. The truss should be behind the solebar and much higher up so that you can't see the notch. So possibly a small manufacturing error?

I started to think about what sort of wireless handset I would like to use and so just for fun, I drew one: The key points are: Ergonomic design. Rounded back like a mouse with indent so it sits naturally in the hand and won't slip out of position. Basic operation one handed without having to look at the handset. Throttle wheel and side buttons can be worked by the thumb, left or right handed. Big buttons using proper microswitches for reliability and better usability (again like a mouse). Easy loco switching. While you're in Drive Mode just use the A-D buttons to call up a stored loco immediately with a single click. High res colour screen. Belt hook and wrist strap. This is just for fun remember!

Yes, I think most of us would expect a shorter sequence to qualify as "easy switching". It should be either two button presses: <retrieve from stored locos> <single digit store position number, N> or with N dedicated buttons on the handset, just a single button press: <retrieve stored loco N>

Here's a rubbish photo of an All third in "Twin cities" livery that arrived today: It's a lovely solid model, quite hefty but not "heavy" heavy. The brake rodding is very clever. It appears to be connected from the levers at the vac cylinders all the way to both the near and the far brake "coat hanger" things (do they have a proper name?) as per the prototype. But in fact the brake rod that's fixed to the underframe threads into a little hole on the bogie and projects through so that it can slide in and out as the bogie rotates. Then another bit of rodding fixed to the bogie continues on along the same line. The internal lighting is good in the sense that it's bright enough to show the interior detailing and there's not a sign of any flicker but on the minus side it's too bright to be realistic of course, it's too "cool" coloured and it highlights all the transparent plastic edges around the glazing. My intention was to use it as a trailer for my SRM in similar livery. Hmmm, maybe I chose the wrong diagram...? And there's the bolection question...

This thread has become schizophrenic, dividing between those answering the Topic title question and those answering the more recent add-on question.

Like Andy says, search for "CCT", "Dual white" or "Tuneable white". They all mean the same thing. Also, make sure you get something that's bright enough. Lots of LED tapes are just for accent lighting but you need to look for phrases like "Room lighting" or "Task lighting".

Unless you need to create sunrise and sunset effects then you probably don't need an RGB set. RGB sets don't offer much control over the quality of the mixed white light they produce, either. I suggest you need a combination of Cool White and Warm White. You can get tapes that combine both and allow you to mix them with very fine control if you have a suitable controller. Or just buy separate Warm and Cool white sets. Cool White is like summer midday sunlight and Warm White is like morning/evening light. The exact combination you use is a matter of taste but most people I've seen use either 2 Warms to 1 Cool or vice-versa.

Instead of a single handset with two knobs, what about two handsets each with a single knob? That might be a cheaper solution, with more options for handsets and command centres.

Yes, I have one that lurches through a stiffness in the motion. It used to run basically smoothly but was sent back to Kernow for a slightly different problem and came back with the stiffness. Check that your valve stems and stem guides are horizontal and fixed properly. They seem to become bent upwards quite commonly and that means that the motion is not moving as intended, which might be causing your problem. I haven't yet diagnosed my lurcher. I tried lubrication and a bit more running in but it still does it.

Fair point, thanks. The porthole windows on the new Dapol Moguls use the same technique and it doesn't really work very well, IMHO, because you can see the back of the transparent plastic behind the painted areas. It looks very odd from some angles.

The prismatic effect of the edges of all those small windows in the B-Sets is very visible.

Sorry Alex, I read through the D & H manual but I can see now that you have extra information on your website that would have been helpful. I didn't realise it was there and it might be a good idea to refer to it in the covering material you send out with the decoder. To be clear, I have no problem the sound project itself. The sounds are more realistic than others I have used and the dynamics of how they are applied during driving is very natural. I think it's a bit odd that CV353 is defined as "Chuffs at Speed Step 1" and yet with the default speed curve you can't actually hear any chuffs at step 1. That's a D & H problem. I will try again to get good chuff sync when VHigh is set to a lower value and will report back.

My decoder is installed in a batch 1 Dapol Mogul, which has very high gearing so the default values in the Manor project don't apply. I have managed to get a reasonable sync while CV5 VHigh is set to the default 92. I would like to lower it because of the high gearing of the loco but when I did that things seemed to be less predictable, as described above. I need to go back and re-test that. The speed curve as set by CV48 is the cause of the lack of chuffs when accelerating up to low speed settings and of the "free-wheeling" chuffs after decelerating down to low speed settings. The flat start to the curve seems to fail to trigger the chuff counter. Seems like a bug to me. By setting a linear curve (CV48=0) I was able to set up a decent chuff sync but I have subsequently reset the speed to have a shallower curve to get more natural starts. Chuffs don't start below 2 but when driving for real you quickly pass through that zone and don't notice. With the revised speed curve the sync remains the same as with the linear curve - I half expected it to go out of whack. The Acceleration and Deceleration rates can also be changed without affecting chuff sync, thank goodness. So I have something that works OK for now but the loco is way too fast. That's the fault of the loco but I hope I'll be able to adjust the decoder to compensate for it and setup a decent chuff sync.

Yep, good point.

The pickups in the trailing bogie are in the axle bearings.

Yep, not really needed for the SRM because of its multiple pickups and long wheelbase. You'd be really unlucky to completely lose power with these if your track is up to any decent standard. On the other hand, it's so easy to add to the SRM because there's loads of space right next to the decoder. So if you've got the parts and 5 minutes to spare, why not?

After another session of fiddling at speed step 2/128 with a linear speed curve, I do at least get chuffs that seem to be related to loco speed. Having set CV353 to a reasonable sync at speed step 2 I then speed up the loco and set CV354 to get good sync at the faster speed. But that then throws out the sync at low speed, etc., in an endless spiral of doom. Man, this is frustrating! At the moment I don't think it's actually possible to get a decent chuff sync across a range of speeds with this decoder.

I have a Doehler & Haass SD18A with a steam sound project and I'm trying to sync the chuff rate to the host loco but it has defeated me so far. The D&H manual says that CV353 sets the chuff rate at speed step 1 and then CV354 adjusts it for higher speeds but the decoder behaviour at speed step 1 is not consistent: If I start the loco from 0 and go up one step (1 of 128) it makes no chuff sounds at all, no matter how many wheel revolutions I wait. If I accelerate up to a higher speed and then come down to speed step 1, the coasting sound stops responding to loco speed and just runs at it's own independent rate. So it seems to be impossible to sync chuffs at speed step 1...? I'm trying to set CV353 first and then adjust CV354 because that is the strong suggested method from the descriptions of the two CVs and empirically trying any other It's possible that some other threshold setting in the decoder is preventing the chuff rate from responding to loco speed at low speed inputs but I can't immediately see what. It's also possible, I suppose, that by "Speed step 1" they mean 1/28 rather than 1/128...? That's not clear but worth a try. Does anyone have experience of these decoders and setting the chuff rate? Update: While writing this, I've realised that I should probably try setting VHigh to max and setting a linear speed response.

I'm not sure photos of the sites with their trees today will be much help in identifying the trees that would have been in the same locations 100 years ago. Within that period Dutch Elm disease drastically changed the landscape, of course. ("Elm Road" is a strong hint as to the trees found at that location.) In the fourth colour photo in the first post, the trees in question have tree guards around the bases of their trunks so we know those have been intentionally planted and could come from anywhere. Can you post some photos of the actual trees from the period in question (or similar)? Or point us to such photos in @phil_sutters link?

The bomb is en-route as I type, apparently.

https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkxg3fs3YcK4rJSvIFmkt8aS2F7x5f60G6g?si=VowAIZiRVH0_mf5s

The tender in the batch1 moguls had a big diecast block in them with a well to hold a 40*20mm speaker so I'm a bit surprised you think it needs extra weight. Is there a speaker in the tender? I hope so! If so, you could make sure the diaphragm is facing upwards and do the mesh coal load thing.

That looks very rational. If you're happy with 2/3rd scenic 1/3rd fiddle yard around the room then it makes a lot of sense because you can see everywhere, reach everywhere and easily change things by hand in the FY. It also means that you don't need automation right from the word go - you can run the layout manually at first and get automation working in stages.

Yes, I like both Moor Street and Cheltenham St James. Just pointing out that if the goal is some roundy-round running with some shunting a through station is in many ways a better fit. N gauge makes a return loop much easier to do space-wise than OO but it's just a bit awkward to fit into the scenic parts of a plan. However, if it's in the off-scene area then it's much easier.