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  1. Chris I was just about to suggest doing a sample piece first, but you beat me to it. On the test piece paint the canal bottom with murky brown and dark green colours and even darker shades up against the banks. Then do one pour of the resin (2mm layer) and see how that turns out when cured. If your not happy with the result paint on some more murky colours and then add another layer of resin. Hopefully, you should end up with a result to your liking. Oh and dont forget to plug the ends up. You could also use the opportunity to add a few reeds etc to see how you might pla
  2. Chris Congrats on getting into Januarys edition of BRM with your super detailed waiting room interior. That fire place is something else. Very well done Sir.
  3. "It doesn't look pretty" I disagree, its looking 'pretty good', very nice work. Instead of a mirrow, perhaps try some matt black card first to see how that looks.
  4. Thanks again for all the likes folks. I have decided to put the tree into a small diorama, as the next step will be to make it look as if it is rooted to the ground. I am going to avoid making it too grassy around the base of the tree as often not much grows beneath trees as the roots take a lot of goodness out of the ground. I will attempt a patchy weedy grass look with mostly soil showing. Perhaps some vines and ivy growing up the trunk. For now, I prefer this method of tree making as opposed to using wire. You can get the same end results with wire but for me plastic has turned
  5. Stand by for action, a brief glimps of sunlight was enough of an excuse for me to dash into the garden and take a few snaps of the tree. Didn't have much time to think of composition so you have the garden fence as the backdrop. Worth the effort though as I think the natural light helps bring the tree to life. For the foilage, I have sprayed Wws static grass layering spray onto the ends of all the seafoam branches and then sprinkled over oak leaf from the green scene collection. I worked on small areas at a time and sprinkled on the scatter from the top, sides and with the tree held
  6. Thanks to all for the likes and great comments. In answer to Rogers question, the armatures are actually from C+ L Finescale - it has a code on the pack 4ZZ106A, quite old I think as I bagged them a while back on that famous internet auction and selling site. I think they are intended for 7mm scale but they work for a mature size tree in 4mm scale. I measured the girth at the widest point on the trunk and its 2.5cm so just over 6' in 4mm scale. The Wooodlans Scenics ones and other types would still work (trees come in all shapes ans sizes) so the techniques I have used here should
  7. Thank you saxokid, I'm hoping to take a few shots of the tree outside today - shoud look better in natural light, I'll post the pics later today. Mark
  8. I've pushed along a bit further and have now added all the sea foam to give a tree with a scale height of about 35' in 4mm scale. I next added some more ready mixed filler to extend further up the trunk and onto some of the lower branches, any higher than this isn't necessary if you are adding a full leafed canopy. However if your going for a tree without leaves you would need to brush some diluted filler over all the plastic branches to add some bark texture and this also disguises the join between plastic and seafoam. All of the branches then recieved a spray coat of Citadel 'Death Gua
  9. Thanks to everyone for the likes, much appreciated. I have now progressed a little further and have started to add the sprigs of seafoam onto the plastic branches to help form the tree canopy. This is best done by holding the tree some how so that you have both hands free. I have pushed the tree onto an old cork stop which allows me to grip the tree while I add a drop of super glue gel onto the branch and then place on the seafoam. Then while holding the sea foam in position, I sprinkle over some Roket powder which accelrates the superglue drying time allowing it to bond the seafoam
  10. I am currently having a stab at tree modelling in 4mm scale using plastic armatures and I thought it would be good to share some of the techniques I have used on this forum. This is the first tree I have modelled using plastic armatures, prior to this I have only modelled one other tree using copper wire covered in tiling grout, weathered and then covered in various leaf scatters. The end result was OK but I think there is room for improvement – see first image. I am experimenting with the plastic armature method to see if I prefer it and to see how much realism is possible. In truth
  11. Hi Chris If you drop in on the virtual exhibition this weekend, I hear that Kathy Millatt will be showing how to create realistic roads. Not sure if 1930's road surface will form part of the demonstration but probably worth a looksee to pick up some tips. In the past I have had some success with 400 grit wet and dry paper, just glue it down and use weathering powders or air brush, its better suited for replicating tarmac road surfaces though but might be worth experimenting with to see if it can be used in a couple of areas within the yard itself. Also tea dust is very useful for fin
  12. Had a word with myself and got around to painting some figures this afternoon, I left the bench untidy and I feel a lot better for it. So now I am able to introduce the Colonel, a survivor of the Great War and this morning he arrives on the platform looking forward to a day at the races.
  13. Thanks Steve I think once I start the bench will never look like that again, so the tidy issue will eventually be addressed. I will need to use the photo as a reference, so I know where everything should go back. I have some more figures to paint, so maybe I will see how that works out, pretty simple task to lay my hands on a brush and paints, not so simple to find a need to do so at the moment. Don't worry folks, I will bounce back in my own time as Tyteford Halte is my therapy and so I will endeavour to have a session this weekend. All the best Mark
  14. Thanks Chris I'll leave the bottom drawer open tonight, maybe my mojo will find its way there by the morning failing that I'll give myself a good kick up the pants.
  15. Evening folks, just posting to let you know that my allocated modelling area AKA the dining room table (my safe zone) has received a furniture upgrade and has transformed into a work bench/desk effort which has materalised in an entirely differerent room. Meals will soon be eaten at the table again, and this transformation, amongst other things happening at home, has meant that Tyteford Halte is currently at halt while I acclimatise to my new modelling environment. It has definitely had an effect on my keenness to return to the sport of modelling stuff as the Feng Shui is all out of kilte
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