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  1. Thanks John (and everyone else that replied!). It's to go into a laser-cut base, so putting holes in it is easy but adding a spigot to the base isn't possible. Back to the drawing board, unfortunately. Oh well. Jonathan
  2. Thank you Kev! That's exactly why I'm designing this... That turntable above is in SketchUp. Although I'm going to have to make it bigger now, as I made the assumption that a 12' turntable would actually be 12', therefore it's only 48mm diameter!!! I'm unsure whether to do this as a 'cosmetic' turntable only, or go the whole hog & try to make it work... Jonathan
  3. Talk about timing - I've been meaning to design a better wagon TT for my layout for literally months now; finally got round to starting it this morning: I came across a query & just did a search to try & find the answer, and discover this thread! Jonathan
  4. You may have noticed this page has been a little quiet lately... I've not been posting any updates recently simply because, unfortunately, there's nothing to update! I've been struggling to get some supplies in, with one supplier in particular being behind schedule (not helped by Royal Mail losing one shipment, and then a different courier losing the replacement shipment a couple of weeks later! ) At the moment I have very few kits in stock; I'm hoping to have new stock of the current kits available in 2-3 weeks, along with pictures of the first examples of the new canalside warehouse kits. Stock on those will hopefully follow a couple of weeks later. On a more positive note however, I had a nice drive out the other day to look at a new laser-cutting machine... Thank you all for your patience & support! Jonathan JSModels
  5. jrb

    Peco Bridge Construction

    Yes, the middle piece in your pic goes on the back (road side) with the top edges flush. Then the coping stones go on top.
  6. jrb


    I stand corrected then, I couldn't see them when I had a look. In my defence, the Peco website is really, really awful to use. Jonathan
  7. jrb


    To be fair, they are quite hard to find (not listed in the 'turnout plans' section) but they are there. More specifically, HERE. Jonathan
  8. Terry, I think that's an understatement. It looks great! Jonathan
  9. A3 is twice the size (by area) of A4, but that does NOT equate to 200% scaling. Scaling A4 by 200%, the result would be A2 (4x the area). To scale from A4 to A3, the required ratio is 141%, though if you want to scale it to O gauge, you'll need a different ratio again. To scale from OO to O gauge, the ratio will be 175%, which means the original A4 sheet won't fit on A3. You'd need to print it in sections. Jonathan
  10. I'm looking for a source to buy some OO gauge plastic rail chairs, but I need them to have a spigot on the bottom to locate into a hole in a plate (similar to the system the FineTrax N gauge point kits use, but obviously in OO). Does anyone make such a thing? Ideally I need types for code 75 rail, both bullhead and flat-bottomed. I only need standard chairs, no double or slide ones. I've tried C&L but they don't seem to do them, who else can I try? I've never built points before, so have no clue about what suppliers are out there. Thanks, Jonathan
  11. Before you get too much further, you might want to consider re-drawing it with streamline points rather than the set-track points you've used for the majority. They really do look awful & totally unrealistic, whereas the longer streamline points are, even if still compromised compared to the real thing, considerably better looking.
  12. I'm not an expert on adhesives by any means, but as a cabinet maker I've had to use quite a few different types, and learn about them. Normal PVA (and by normal I mean generic 'wood glue' types, classed as D2 adhesives) dries by evaporation of the water content, or absorption of same by the materials it's bonding. That in itself is fine, but if that dried PVA is ever exposed to water or high moisture levels it re-absorbs some water & becomes 'live' again; once this happens, it can never fully dry out to it's previous hardened state again and stays slightly soft. An example of this is removing old track by re-wetting the ballast, it becomes soft & easy to remove (if you then leave the clumps of removed ballast to 'dry' again, you'll notice it's much weaker than before & crumbles in your fingers). Moisture resistant PVA (D3 or 'weatherproof' PVA) is better in this regard, but still not great (there's an explanation of wood adhesive grades here). So if you seal something with PVA and then apply water-based paint over the top (often in washes for weathering) then you're breaking down the structure of the PVA. To be perfectly honest, for models it probably doesn't really matter, but I've just heard so many stories of things failing because people have 'sealed' something with PVA that I have an in-built aversion to it! I'm sure it'd be fine, but it's an additional, unnecessary step, so why bother? Jonathan JSModels
  13. Steve, Sorry, I've only just seen this! I don't bother priming them myself, and just apply acrylic paints directly to the MDF. If you want to prime them, then a light coat of grey (or red, if it's brick finish) primer from a rattlecan will suffice. I would not recommend this - unless it's a specific type of PVA designed for the purpose (which most modelmakers are unlikely to have knocking around, as they're not generally available) then PVA is generally a very bad medium for sealing anything. If you really feel the need to seal the MDF, then this would be a much better product than PVA (though it is IMHO totally unnecessary). Jonathan JSModels
  14. The adhesive on masking tape is not designed for long-term use. I would worry far more about that failing than delamination of the card sides from the foamboard.
  15. How coincidental that I saw this post, then went into the BBC news app and this article came up... BBC News - Why Admiral's 'flashy' England strip now commands respect https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-50055675
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