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RobMG

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Everything posted by RobMG

  1. I am sorry to have stirred up a hornets nest, and I do agree with everyone re the quality of the kit . It is as everyone would agree a brilliant piece of engineering. I do have experience of building etched brass or Nickel silver etched kits. In the long distant past I scratchbuilt chassis I needed using 020" nickel silver sheet. I intend doing so for another loco for which a chassis is not available. I did get a little uptight because I didn't find it obvious where to look for instructions. I thought at first they had been forgotten, but I was wrong. Somebody the people who do not have access to, or the knowledge to use it the internet, a valid point. what are they to do. Maybe they wouldn't have bought the kit in the first place, because they might not even know about High level due to not having the internet. Maybe I should have asked on here first, but I was a little irritated at the time due to other pressures. I will enjoy building this. just got to get some wheels, and motor. cheers everyone
  2. Thank you Nick, I have at last found the instructions by looking at frequently asked questions. I do however feel that had this been suggested on a simple slip of paper in the kit box, I wouldn't have had to sit tearing my hair out searching. I will not buy another kit from them. I will go for the cheaper option which I have built several of before. I understand about small companies, and keeping costs down by not doing this that and the other, but a tiny bit more information would not go amiss. Having said all that, the kit itself looks great, and I now look forward to building it. Rob
  3. I recently purchased a 4mm Dean goods etched chassis from High Level models. I chose this one because people praise it so highly. However when I received it I was disappointed to find there are no instructions with it. I then tried to find a means of contacting HL to obtain instructions. I had an email back to tell me all instructions are online. There was nothing in the pack to tell me this, just the kit parts. So I then searched the internet, and searched and searched. I can find nothing. Now I realise I must be stupid and not looking in the right place. I have again searched, but nothing. I will no doubt send the kit back and ask for a refund. I am in no way unhappy with the actual kit. It looks superb, but too complicated to attempt without instructions to guide me. I have built Comet kits previously and had no problems, because they come with instructions. Has anyone else had any problems with HL and if so how have you overcome them? I don't want to be a moaner, I really would love to be able to get on with this model. Rob
  4. You should find that H&A have them now. I was told over a week ago told a batch had been sent to them. I need some as well. Rob.
  5. I have seen that picture too now I think about it. It was a Reading (81D) engine in it's final days. I grew up there and probably saw it go past the house. My dad who was a driver possibly even drove it. Well the reason I asked is because I modified one Mainline Collett tender for my 2251, and still have a spare. Maybe I will build a model of that bulldog sometime. I knew the 4000 gall was not used on the Collett goods. Well thank you all for the confirming info. Rob
  6. I also have some very old 30/40 years Slaters Plastikard. No probs with that. I have some more recent Slaters Plastikard still no problems. I have never used any other make, so can't comment on those. Rob
  7. I bought my current stock of Plastikard directly from Slaters. I've had no problems at all with it. Rob
  8. I have 2 of these Ikea lamps. One over my workbench, the other over my lathe. I couldn't be without them. Highly recommended.
  9. Was the Collett 3000 gallon tender tender fitted to any other loco than the 2252 class. I am aware of the Collett 3500 gall version which was slightly higher, and also the 4000 gall, but I can't find any pictures of other engines with the 3000 gallon. There may well have been the odd other class engine with one, but it seems to me that the 2251 class was the only class that had them normally. Rob
  10. I enjoyed reading his books and magazine articles. He would be inducted into the model railway 'Hall of Fame' if there was one. RIP Iain Rice
  11. Cheers, I found photos on Pauls site of axle box close ups which enabled me to do some sculpting of the axle boxes, and make new brake levers and rachets. I turned new buffers so it looks much better now. I will see if I can find out from Paul re the colour. I have sprayed it with grey etch primer at the moment to key new parts made of brass. It looks ok like that. Would it have been vac fitted in the 50's ? some people seem to think they were fitted later. I would post some pics, but it's such a palaver to do that here. Thank you. Rob
  12. Wow what a lucky find. Perhaps Bachmann can help with the coupling rods. I am well jealous.. Rob
  13. When Heljan spares were available from Howes of Oxford, spares were easy to get. Gaugemaster have made it difficult. So I don't bother with them. I would make the parts as someone said earlier and use them as a pattern to have them 3D printed or resin cast. Rob
  14. I have nearly finished an Airfix lowmac. Modified the axle boxes etc. What I need to know though is about livery. I am assuming grey, but what about the frames and springs etc. Should these be body colour or black, or if body colour would the springs , axleboxes , brake levers be black. Thanking you in advance. Rob
  15. Hi Dave, Yes I am likely to go for the High Level kit. I didn't realise it comes with a gearbox. That is handy. I haven't built a High Level kit. only Comet or scratch. Oh and in prehistoric times K's. they were pretty basic to say the least. I will look forward to the HL. I will undoubtedly use Alan Gibsons. I sorta hoped someone might have some Sharmans. I used them a few times in the past and they seemed rather good to me. I did manage to find a set for a 14XX a year or so back. Cheers Rob
  16. I did send a message, but have had no response. cheers Rob
  17. Excellent work, The model definitely benefits from having the solebars moved in. I will be doing that on mine. I think I will fit new buffers from LMS. Otherwise will do as you have done. Rob
  18. Hi, I am wanting a Comet Dean Goods chassis.

    Do you know when they will be available again please. ?

    I have built one or two Comet chassis before, and I like the way they go together. 

    Thanks in advance.

     

    Rob

    1. Major Clanger

      Major Clanger

      Rob,

       

      I've only just seen this. The Dean Goods chassis is expected back in stock in the next two weeks or so.

       

      It's best to contact me by ordinary e-mail (andrew@modelsignals.com) - despite looking at RMWeb twice a day, I very rarely log in, and until today was totally unaware that my profile was yet another messaging service.

       

      Andrew

  19. Ok cheers for your help. I will try that. Rob 👍
  20. Thank you for your reply. Yes I know it's out of stock. I should have mentioned this was the reason I was asking to see if anyone had a kit they didn't need. Goodness knows how long it will be before one is available from Wizard. if ever again.. I will probably shell out for a High Level kit in the end. If at some time I can afford one. In the meantime I will carry on detailing the rest of the loco. cheers Rob
  21. I have a Hornby Dean goods I am detailing . If anyone has a comet chassis, and Sharman or Gibson wheels, I would like to buy them. Here's hoping. Cheers Rob
  22. Cheers, I guessed it had to be that. I will try it when next necessary 👍 Rob
  23. This looks interesting. Can you explain further about the sprue goo. I remember something similar when I used to build 1/72 model aircraft. I seem to remember it involved melting bit of plastic in MEK . I never tried it , but it sounds like a goodish idea. Rob
  24. Cheers , I have looked on their list in the past before. I will look again. Thank you for reminding me. Rob
  25. I wish I knew of any. I usually cut them out of plastic sheet 10 thou and solvent them to the buffer beam and make do with that. If I am feeling so inclined I have made bolt head by manipulating tiny pieces of plasticard on to the corners. That is best avoided if you wish to remain sane ! Rob
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