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brenn

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  1. I think the 8 pin option on steam locomotives has more to do with the lack of functions need by the chip and I guess may change once more lights and effects etc are incorporated in to new models
  2. Funny you say that the Bachmann 416 took me weeks to do as the back lugs just wouldn’t lift...... I didn’t want to force it so left it and eventually got it off and could see exactly where the lugs were....luckily I had the replacement bodies Bachmann had sent out due due to the numbers issue but still the instructions didn’t help with the issue at all B
  3. This is the point exactly! I have just embarked on chipping my collection and have come across problems with many of my locos, partly because they have been in storage, but mainly with lights not working from the fit of the lights lugs once the body is seated. Dapol 29 seems to me the best example of a manufactured model taking in to account ease of ddc decoder fitting. The body simple to remove/replace and the lights are wired in to the main board with connecting plugs that can be disconnected if needed. Simple and effective, but I guess cost more to manufacture...... At £150 a pop now for a standard diesel I don’t think a better solution to lights rather than copper contact strips is to much to ask. B
  4. I’ve swapped it around twice but I’ll try that again but I needed to put back the ddc blanking chip to test it on dc to see if it’s the chip B
  5. I’ve managed to get a lens sliver direct to fitted which allowed the body to seat properly but unfortunately the lights don’t work now..... I have to agree with those who have said Hornby didn’t plan the DDC decoder well as many of the chips just won’t allow the body to seat, with or without a harness. It’s seems only direct fitted chips which have the 8 pin orientated towards the cab as opposed to the body sides that fit easily. There should have been provision made for seating any decoder without fouling the body. Does anybody have an idea as to why the lights aren’t working? I have not recheck on dc yet but they did work before fitting the chips. thanks B
  6. That’s a great idea.........I didn’t think of that simple solution although the cabs are glued in so will take a bit of moving and that will allow testing easier as one end of 56127 doesn’t seem to be working. Thsnks..... I’ll have a look at that soon B
  7. The one thing I’ve noticed from this tread is this is a common problem. I haven’t had the same issue with my class 50s yet but I still have a few yet to chip but I think I may strip them down as well because the 56s are now running like a dream........I e just got to figure out the light issue........Given Smokeboxs point the question is can the bodies be swapped at all and the lights and still keep working lights. If remember rightly there was some about replacement pcb boards for 56 in the press.....anybody have an idea if that’s correct. B
  8. The weathering examples I seen on here are unbelievably bad..........get ready for these to be sold off cheaply once the glut of returns hit Heljan........Ben you should show photos of better examples if you have them because no one will buy these at £150 a pop Shocking bad examples of factory weathering!
  9. Update well that idea of opening the doors to check the fit was one of those good ideas that’s not that good in practice. The door springs didn’t like it much both on 56013 and 56127. The windows of the latter pigging out. The lights on 56013 work on its own frame but not on 56127 sound fitted frame. The lighting springs are different both in length and shape 56127 going off at an angle. I’m trying to figure out a rig of some type to check the lights without soldering but failed today but as with the idea of open doors I have a think and see tomorrow if I can get the wires attached from the body while the chassis is on the rolling road to see if the lights are working on both bodies. At present 56127 isn’t working at one end own it own chassis. Any suggestions woul be greatly appreciated. B
  10. Thanks James I watched this now...... I didn’t remove the motor as I found once the carden shafts were disconnected I could test it first by hand moving the fly wheels to see if the motor rotated and then connecting to 12dc the motor was fine. The one point I would recommend is to completely disassemble the worm screw assembly and clean it with WD40 in a tray and then oil the parts and reassemble but take care with the tiny washer at the carden shaft end. The loco is running better than ever now it’s reassembled and the lights are working all I have to do is figure out how best to get the lights to work on the swapped body as the contacts look slightly different in length. Hopefully I can avoid soldering as that’s a last resort. As I been typing this it just occurred to me that the doors open on the 56 and I may be able to see if the lights contact sit properly and if they don’t move them in to place.....I’ll try that tomorrow. B
  11. I found it easier to hook the spring while the v section up and then lower it once the spring was hooked. I then lined up the v with the hole that locates the buffer beam part from 56 013......This parts not on the sound fitted coal 56 which I’m try to swap the body from. It pretty straight forward really. Now for the pub rewiring just hope I can remember which wire goes where....note to self take photos before disassembly next time.....
  12. Ok done now.......it reasonably easy to do and you can get this part with spring as a spare ( x9784) ive take the opportunity to scrape the contacts for the light strip to see if the dirt is preventing the light from working but I’ll test the lights before I seat the body back on to see if it how the contact strips are sitting that’s the problem. Anybody going down the stripping the worm screw I would recommend that you completely disassemble the whole unit and careful to fit the washer next to the worm before easing the square nut back on. Here’s the photo’s for the coupling B
  13. NP...... I’ll send them later.....funny you mentioned the contact strips as they have to be moved to get at the coupling so I’m going to see if by raising the contact strip slightly it’ll get the lights working although I’m trying a body swap. Im trying to avoid soldiering wire to these contacts strips but this issue is wide spread in my fleet and only doesn’t occur where the manufacturer has a direct wire connection, such as, Dapol 22,29, and some Heljan locos B
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