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JustinDean

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  • Location
    Wirksworth
  • Interests
    Cromford & High Peak Railway
    Avante garde noise rock bands
    Real Ale

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  1. Keep posting Jeff - it’s all about the journey not the destination! Also I think it’s encouraging to see a modeller prepared to undo work when they feel it can be better. I’m only at the beginnings of my model and I’ve already had several moments of ‘do I scrap this’ Good stuff mate!
  2. Thanks for sharing your art Rob…the latter pieces remind me a lot of graphic novel artwork which I’m a particular fan of. Good work! it’s interesting reading folks life choices here as I’m guessing a lot of us here are at a point where we can reflect fairly objectively now. I personally chose to go self employed 20 years ago into a career in music against the advice of everyone around me. I still have to occasionally work hard but I’m still here doing it and loving it! Any creative path is a tricky one but it can be done. Looking forward to seeing some static grass on the layout ;-) Jay
  3. Mick they have changed them - none of this red fibre nonsense going on. I’m starting to sound like a WWS salesman so in balance…. Leading on from Jonathon’s comment about using hairspray for layering/fixing - I’ve found this just as effective as WWS layering spray. I do wonder if some of these products are a bit snake oil at times - their glues are very expensive. Jay
  4. If you find yourself needing more (or anyone else here!) pop this code in at checkout for 20% off mate: WWSFB20
  5. Another WWS user here. I’ve been using layers of ‘patchy’ and ‘muddy’ plus ‘Northern Europe’. I’m also using their basing glue rather than pva for the first fix, then layering spray for further clumps, patches, etc. Jay
  6. Personally I’ve also found with the WWS grass applicator the closer I’ve worked to the subject’s surface the more upright the grass is. Also avoid shaking the thing too vigorously as you can end up with an excess of uncharged grass dropping out.
  7. I tried this technique after watching Martyn’s WWS video on the one field I’ve made so far and it works quite well. I was also worried about the bowling green appearance and as Al has mentioned, layering with different lengths and colours is key to this. Maybe worth trying out on some scrap wood before committing to the model? Jay
  8. I have one on the go, and find threads such as yours inspiration to crack on!
  9. I love how Riber dominates over Matlock. Great photo!
  10. Yes the light plays a massive part in the perception of colour. I have masses of photos of the engine house at Middleton Top and the variation in tone is substantial. I’m also guessing if there’s been recent rain the tone will be changed. It’s heading into the time of year I’m modelling (August) so a site visit with photos for reference is going to happen! cheers Jay
  11. I think I’m going to make a site visit next week and discreetly carry out your suggestion. I’ve also got some of the local stone in my house in the form of an exposed wall. That greyish/brown colour seems elusive to me. More experimentation needed I reckon. The engine house will be the last thing I make - all these little bits make for good practise. Just looking at your engine house - how did you create the stone work? Cheers Jay
  12. Thanks Al - yes I’ve been applying washes while it’s horizontal. I’m still not 100% on the colour and Geraint has noted this! Jay
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