23 hours ago, SteveyDee68 said:

 

I'm going to be very annoying, Rob, and ask if you've detailed how you went about weathering this wagon earlier on your thread? (Well, there are a lot of pages!!) I just picked up three of these off eBay (two of which require replacement buffers) to go with an old Airfix/GMR version (from my teens!) and would love to achieve the kind of finish you have on this wagon.

 

Shame Project X won't feature a wharf - I was looking forward to seeing you do water!

 

Steve S

 

 

Morning Steve, 

 

No worries. The modelling stuff does get submerged at times and its a big old thread. 

 

Here's a repeat of a series of images from earlier in the thread. I use the same principles for any planked wagon. 

 

The victim of this occasionis a Minerva 5 plank GWR open. 

 

Here it is, out of the box. 

 

 

 

 

Humbrol Dark Earth acrylic  was sprayed over the underframe, lower body and ends. 

 

 

 

 

 

The inside was worked on first using powders. My pallet is limited and I use only Humbrol powders at present. 

 

 

 

The colours used are

 

Black

Smoke

Rust

Iron Oxide

Sand

Dark Earth 

White

 

 

All are applied using a selection of really cheap and nasty make up brushes from Amazon. 

 

 

 

 

No particular order. Just add until it looks right to you. 

 

 

 

Once happy with the resulting blending and adding of the various colours, they are sealed using Humbrpl matt acrylic varnish from an aerosol. 

 

 

A light touch is needed. Too wet and you will lose the shades you've worked so hard to acheive. 

 

 

 

Once dry, minutes really, I then take to each individual plank with a fibre brush and remove some of the finish until it looks about right. I then re seal with another dusting of acrylic varnish. 

 

I then moved on to the outside. I deepened and distressed some of the planks using a sharp pointy thing. 

 

Then added powders starting with black to infill the groves first. Sort of pre-shading.. 

 

 

 

Iron oxide was added to the metal work, body and underframe, as was rust and some sand to highlight rust patches. 

 

Smoke and dark earth was used to tone things down. 

 

 

Again, once happy all sealed using matt varnish. 

 

 

Again, individual planks were distressed using the fibre brush. 

 

A final coat of varnish and you're done. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I do however come back to it after a few days with a fresh pair of eyes and tweak if required. 

 

 

 

Here are a few photos of the stages in loco weathering. In this case, the victim was Hornby's Peckett B2 "Westminster".

These photos deal with the body only. Sadly the photos don't follow each step but I'll try to fill in the blanks. 

As started....

 

I'd already decided Westminster was going to be quite distressed. Therefore the starting point was adding rust, especially around the tank filler. Prior to this, the loco was sprayed with matt varnish to act as a key. Iron oxide weathering powder was used to apply the base rust. Now, I would use dark rust.

 

Now, you may see there is some white on the body. This is "blooming' from the varnish. I didn't prepare the aerosol properly and I suspect I either hadn't shaken it enough, the can wasn't warmed ( I normally stand in a bowl of warm water until just before use ) or it was a damp day........or a combination of all three.

 

 

Next, pre-shading was added to the loco using black weathering powder. I applied this to the rivets on the tank and seams to the bunker etc.

 

Some black was added to the tank top as well. Rust was also added to the roof.

 

The bodywork was then coated in smoke weathering powder. This helped to mute the iron oxide. 

 

Also added is dark earth, applied mainly to the lower cab sides, bunker base and the underside of the saddle tank. This loco was weathered before I started using a quick blast of dark earth no 29 areosol, something I would now start with. The loco body would now be sprayed at "stage 1" from below to create a dusty appearance to these areas.

 

 

At this point, a light dusting of varnish was applied, to seal the work thus far.

I wanted a faded appearance to the paintwork. This was done using sand weathering powder applied in small quantities to the areas to be faded. I decided to work in "panels".

 

Sand powder, like white will go a long way so only use a little at a time, adding more if you don't arrive at the desired effect first time.

This stage takes time as you work from the centre of the "panel" out. This creates a lighter centre and dark edge..........or it should.

 

Additional work was done to the rusty areas using a bit more iron oxide, rust and a few specks of sand. 

 

You can also use a bit of white on the panels for extra contrast but it needs careful use to avoid it jarring.

 

Once happy, a final light dusting of varnish was applied. 

And this is how it ended up.....

 

 

Rob

Tim ( Capatain Kernow ) raised a good point on WT regarding whether I  sprayed the subject with varnish, prior to adding powders.......to which I gave the following reply.......

 

 

Hi Tim.

Good point which I should have made clear. For me, it depends on the surface/factory finish. Powders adhere best to a matt surface. If the wagon sides have a slight sheen, or worse, then I "prime" with a light dusting of matt varnish. Then the powder is added. If matt to start with then I don't bother .

Van rooves are slightly different. I varnish them regardless with said light dusting. This provides a bit of texture from the off, as it were.

This coach roof was varnished then powders applied.

 

Black is used to "pre-shade" ribs, vetilators etc.

 

Large blusher brush applies mixture of dark earth and smoke.

 

 

End result.

 

Rob.

 

 

 

Evening all,

 

I was asked over on Western Thunder how I went about my weathering. In response, I put together the below. Images have been featured on here but were lost back in 2020 so my apologies for the duplication for some of you. 

This then is what we started with...an Ex-GWR open from Minerva. I gather there were issues with the brake gear etc but that didn't, and still doesn't concern me.

 

I was quite taken with the colour of the interior and rather than repaint in various greys, white etc to simulate aged wood, I decided to leave as was and add a bit of contrast.

 

First job was a light blast over the underframe and body with Humbrol Dark Earth No.29, applied baaway of an aerosol. I don't possess an airbrush and this was the only paint applied to this wagon.

 

After this, all other weathering was using Humbrol weathering powders which were sealed with Humbrol matt acrylic varnish, No.49.

This is an example of my usual tool kit for this sort of job.

 

 

Note* This is a later image. I did not use the masking tape or the dark rust colour. Later photos will include the kit I actually used at the time.

I decided to start with the interior. As I say, I decided to leave the base colour rather than repaint.

 

I worked, plank by plank, initially using dark earth, sand, and white weatgering powders. The contrast between planks was gradually built up.

 

 

 

 

You can see the "tool kit" in this photo.

Also used was a bit of iron oxide then smoke which was applied over all the colours, picking out the gaps in the planks.

 

I just carried on until it looked okay.

 

Hi 
Iron oxide and rust was added around the various bolt heads and streaked.

Once happy, the interior of the wagon sealed using a light dusting of the matt varnish.

 

I then created a bit more contrast by rubbing the individual planks with a 4mm fibre brush. A bit more powdering, a bit more varnish and a bit more fibre penning until it looked okay and it was left.

Next stage. The exterior.

I decided to distress the joints in the planks and a dental spikey probe was drawn along the moulded gaps in the planks. An occasional wiggle, as well as the odd...ahem..slip...gave a less uniform appearance.

After this, black weathering powder was dabbed into these gaps. I then added iron oxide powder to the iron work in a haphazard fashion. Wheels are tackled at the same time.

 

After this, I started adding smoke powder to the whole wagon.

 

This toned down the rust and lessened the effect of the black.
I also added iron oxide to the springs and underframe, dark earth applied over the top of this toned it down. Black on the axle boxes and "grease points" of the brake gear as well as smoke here and there. Basically working by eye.

 

Then, once happy the powders were sealed with a light dusting of matt varnish.

 

Once dry, I then took a fibre brush and removed the weathering in varying degrees, plank by plank. Vary the pressure and you'll provide a bit of contrast to the colour of each plank. If more contrast is required, add a small amount of white, streaked along a plank and work it in.

 

The fibre brush will also provide a grain effect as you go.

 

Further rust was added using iron oxide, rust and a tiny bit of sand was added to the iron work and bolt heads, streaking downwards where felt necessary. I also highlighted some of the boltheads and chains with a HB pencil.

 

Again, once happy, a light dusting of matt varnish seals things in.

 

The last stage is flicking a large make up brush over the iron work. This will apply a burnished effect to the plot and highlight the texture of the powders and varnish.

 

And that's that....




Rob

 

 

 

 

 

Perhaps the final walk through is the work done to a Hornby Butterley waiting room to turn it into a building which was hopefully reminiscent of a Great Eastern branch line station building. 

 

Although it was destined for a mid1950s setting, I decided to finish it in the first paint scheme adopted by the newly formed L&NER. My theory was being that being a backwater, it was due for a repaint in 1939 but it never happened. Therefore, the paint was now some 30 years old and somewhat dilapidated as a result. 

 

So, not having painted a timber building to this level of dilapidation,  I spent a while looking at images before practicing on a piece of Wills tongue and groove planking. 

 

 

I settled on a base colour of Tamiya red brown on the bottom and Humbrol mast oak on the top. These were then weathered using various powders, of which more details later on. 

 

The subject, as I say, was a resin Hornby Butterley waiting room from their Skaledale range. This was purchased second hand and had been partially repainted by the previous owner. Front and rear views as below with the glazing and windows removed by myself. 

 

 

 

I rubbed the existing ginish down then set about distressing the grooves between the planks using a dental pointy probe thing. 

 

 

 

 

I didn't just draw the point along but wiggled it to give an uneven finish. 

 

Next was the adding of the basic colour to the walls using Humbrol mast oak to the upper walls. Next the framework, lower walls and doors were painted in Tamiya red brown. I wasn't too worried about the patchy coverage as I was going to weather it anyway.

 

 

Brickwork to the base was then painted over the existing Hornby applied grey  brickwork. This was followed by the chimneys. 

 

 

That then was the basic painting done. 

 

Next job was the roof where I set about picking out individual tiles using a variety of  Humbrol grey enamels. 

 

 

 

Then I set about the weathering of the wood using dark earth, sand, white, iron oxide and smoke. Layers were gradually built up, varnished then removed using a 2mm fibre brush. It just sort of evolved until it looked okay. 

 

 

 

As I went along, I popped the building under layout lighting to keep an eye on how the colouring was evolving. Here's the building on Bleat Wharf. 

 

 

The windows were varnished the dusted with dark earth over the white frames. A final coat of varnish sealed them. 

 

The brown paintwork also had iron oxide powders added to provide a bit of ageing. 

 

 

 

The doir knobs were picked out using a pencil. 

 

Once the building had been varnished, the windows were replaced. 

 

 

 

A final touch was the addition of a couple of notice boards. These were also weathered using a bit of white, iron oxide and dark earth. 

 

 

And this was how it ended up. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perhaps I'll build the layout for it one day ! 

 

 

Rob.