JustinDean

Now that would be fun to model!

This is the only wagon I’m going to wreck/weather so heavily. Stopping at this point and will attack it again Sunday.

Hence these running with the NLR tanks I’ve been building. A quick search around on the net brings up large lettered wagons in photos around 1950/51 but as you say, that lettering is remnants and barely perceptible. I’m toying with the idea of heavily distressing/weathering one of these to represent a late survivor. Jay

The J94 has now been numbered 68006. Crew, couplings and window boards to fit after weathering powders have been applied. I may have been a tad excited when Rapido announced the D1666 open. Pretty sure I ordered 6. There’s 7 here. These have had some dirty washes applied along with some rust picked out and will get some subtle powder treatment next. These will run with the NLR tanks on the layout, although I’d be interested to know how long the LMS livery lasted for into BR days. As much as I love kit building wagons, these RTR models are really excellent, and I need a lot of wagons to run Middleton Top. That’s how I’m justifying the dent to my bank balance anyway! Jay

A little bit of layout progress (better than no progress!). More heavy nuts to weigh the wood down. The DAS ground work is now advancing towards the engine shed. Work is intense this time of year so I’m only managing to grab a few hours per week. It’s also my missus 50th this weekend so doubtful I’ll be dirtying up that J94 also. I’ll leave you with a view of some tenders awaiting their onward journey having just been brought up the incline.

Hi Steve, My post on Oct 29th lists the changes and the photo from last Tuesday shows them clearly (all the bare metal parts). The RT Models detailing kit is the primary source of materials for the improvements. Their etch has a detailed set of instructions and I’d highly recommend it. If you’re specifically referring to changes on the chassis then you’re quite right and you wouldn’t find anything! I left this part alone in the end. Jay

I suspect the tip is knackered. Can’t you get a pack of new ones off eBay? Regarding irons I’m currently using a temperature controlled one and spent a fair few quid but before that I used an Antex iron for getting on 30 years with no issues. If you’re burning fingers tinning pieces get some ‘helping hands’ until you get more adept at doing it. Like a lot of things plenty of practice is in order. Jay

The J94 has been attacked by rattle cans this afternoon. More work will commence on this later on the week.

I never use an abrasive to clean a tip, just a wet sponge. Have you got another tip you can try?

A mixture of techniques. Some of it is made up from cast sections I bought off eBay. Some scribed DAS and some individual stones. There’s a lot of wall on Middleton Top and life is short. Jay

Solder doesn’t flow if the surface either isn’t hot enough or dirty. How are you cleaning the tip of your iron for starters? Maybe test on a piece of scrap rail by heating it with the iron then applying the solder to the hot rail and seeing if it flows.

Ay up Nick, I use the old school full fat lead solder and no flux. What you’re describing sounds to me like the solder being used - does the ‘145’ denote the melting point? If so that’s more suitable for white metal. Jay

68013 simmers outside Middleton Top shed this Friday evening.

68013 simmers by Middleton Top shed this Friday evening. …still there coming back down from Middleton Moor. Meanwhile someone’s dropped there nuts on the timbers at the top of the incline. Ive been taking my time over this part of the layout. Adding in some DAS clay, then adding some timbers in. Some of this is still loose while I trim to fit. Foliage slowly creeping in along that back wall in various layers. Dry stone walking needs a lot of work in the foreground! Jay

Wishing you a speedy recovery Jonathon. Glad the op went well for you. Jay

Almost ready for paint….

Another weekend and another J94. I’m going a little further with this old Dapol model: Rear of the cab has been replaced, new spectacle plates front and rear with the front windows enlarged, rear bunker ladder, smokebox dart, backhead details and reverser lever and rod. Still to go: lamp irons, steps, buffer beams and buffers. Then the loco will get a respray, new numbers, couplers, coal and crew.

Best wishes Jonathon - hope the recovery is a speedy one. Jay

Tidy. Fence and bush.

The driver of 68013 contemplates the history of the tenders he’s about to pick up at the top of the incline at Middleton Top.

Hi Jol, Yes center wheels were removed so tenders could be worked on the inclines. As for the ‘4 wheel’ short wheelbase tenders I’m afraid my knowledge doesn’t stretch to their origins! A cursory internet search doesn’t reveal any evidence of a 4 wheel tender existing so that would suggest a ‘cut & shut’. Jay

You’re quite right Jol. A number of McConnell and also Webb tenders were used supplying hamlets, the reservoir at Middleton Top and locomotives. Here’s my attempts at modeling some. Under construction on my other layout: A finished one with exFurness 10t brake: Finally a Webb tender cobbled together from whitemetal parts:

Thanks for flagging up. I’ve already commented on the FB post about its origins. DX boiler on a 4 wheeler McConnell tender chassis. Jay

Thanks mate. On the C&HPR lamps only ever seem to have this particular configuration so felt like an easy addition. Unlike some layouts/locos where different positions are needed for different types of train. Jay

Hi Martyn, I think you’re right. I’ll revisit these when I’ve regained some objectivity! Jay