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mjcampbell

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  1. If Rod Stewart can do it... I gather he hired an extra suite to have space for his modelling. I assume Callum isn't...
  2. Very nice buildings, neatly made, and the painting is very effective - it looks convincing to me. Despite using matt enamels some of the photos show a bit of a sheen, which will take away a little realism as stone walls are about as matt as matt gets (unless it's raining!). Ideas for reducing the sheen are: A weathering wash of well thinned brown - I apply this to most buildings anyway, both to make them look weathered and to emphasise shadows A dusting with talcum powder, or weathering powders A coat of matt varnish - before fitting the glazing. I use Testors Dullcote. To avoid enamels looking shiny (yes even the matt ones) I don't stir them. Instead I remove the pigment (with a matchstick) as I need it to a palette - a Ferrero Rocher tray with the insert has lots of useful hollows to use - then add enamel thinners. I think the gloss comes from the oil in the paint. This also makes it very easy to mix colours.
  3. Fiddly work, but neatly done!
  4. Nice work on that mill. Regarding roofing, I've used the York slates. They are a little large, but at 4mm wide (12") they are not over-scale, at least for 19th century Welsh slates. In fact, I think the Wills slates are rather under-scale for that, being based on smaller (more modern?) slates for domestic properties. (Table from http://www.slateroof.co.uk/Slate_aristocracy.html) Here's some of my examples:
  5. That's come out well. The zoo is an excellent setting for this type of layout, although the RSPCA may have something to say about the size of the enclosures What did you use for the water? Hope you're feeling better...
  6. I nicked your idea for hinged magnets for a 009 layout I'm building, which uses Microtrains couplers (i.e. N-gauge Kadees). The magnet is from two cupboard latches, the hinge arrangement knocked up from plasticard with a bolt for a hinge. The paperclip forms an adjustable (bendable) link to the dowel. The magnet is swung into the recess in the board, there is only a layer of brown paper under the sleepers here. The screws form end-stops for the dowel. The dowel runs the length of the board, emerging at the far end... Where it emerges within convenient reach, pushing in lowers the magnet and pulling out raises it, it has enough friction to hold it either way. The other dowel seen far right moves a sector plate at the back of the layout - but that's another story. Anyway it seems to work well, so thanks for the idea!
  7. Neat, I love the switches too!
  8. It's a bit late now, but I found "Natural White" is a much better colour balance for lighting, being between warm and cool/daylight, though it's not so widely available (I got some off Amazon though). I've seen people paint thin yellow paint over some or all of the LED's to reduce the blue. An alternative to high trestles is shorter legs that go onto a table, although exhibition table heights and sizes can be variable. I find table-top height is too low for comfortable viewing, adding 6-8 inches as a minimum makes a big difference. You could also make the height of the lighting variable, so it can be set higher at an exhibition, or knock up a simpler (lighter) exhibition-only lighting rig?
  9. Hello Micheal. 
     

    I was reading about you O-14 layouts. Good stuff. But I do have a question. You mention about using micro trains couplers on your rolling stock. How did you about installing them?  On the wagons is it just straight and simple just gluing them right to the wagon? What about the engine.

     

    thanks for any help 

     

    steve

    1. mjcampbell

      mjcampbell

      Hi Steve,

      Sorry about the delay in replying, I've not been on here for a while. There's a bit on my blog in various posts about the couplers (including making, fitting, magnets), I fit them to 009 as well as O14. 

      http://michaelsrailways.blogspot.com/search/label/microtrains couplers

       

      In particular this post: http://michaelsrailways.blogspot.com/2011/02/couplings-in-0-14.html

       

      For the KB scale skips I flatten an area on the underside of the end, carefully drill a 1mm hole, and screw the coupler (1015 type) into place from below using the included screw. They self-tap in a 1mm hole. Sometimes I use a small spot of glue to prevent them turning, but that isn't essential.

       

      DSCN0768.JPG

       

      Although it can be seen from above, it isn't obvious. here's a variety of wagons fitted.

       

      DSCN2082.JPG

       

      Simple plasticard jigs set the height of the mounting, and the height of the trip pin to clear rails. I set them a little lower than the "N gauge standard", the height is set by the skips.

       

      DSCN0769.JPG

       

      Locos are more tricky, needing a square hole to recess the draft box into and a means of securing it. If I can't use a screw I secure with a length of wire through the hole, fixed with expoxy. Here's a coupler hole visible under the prototype coupling block on the Lister pre-painting:

       

      DSCN0930.JPG

       

      I hope that helps!

       

      Michael

  10. Good to hear you had a response. I've never had that sort of problem...
  11. The only V3 I've seen still fell off at points (18" radius), and had such limited vertical movement of the couplings/pony-trucks it couldn't cope with a change in gradient. Oh and the motion covers still fell off. So I don't think much has changed...
  12. Track looks good, but there's a slight kink visible at the toe of the point where you have seen issues. Check this is resolved satisfactorily before proceeding! I've laid track down to 5.5" radius before, the tricks are: Remove the rails from the sleepers and pre-bend them - bending between fingers gently and slowly to approximately the radius required. Keep placing the rail on a flat surface to check you are bending in the horizontal plane only - no twist Slide the sleepers back on - this is fiddly but may be easier if you cut the sleepers into short sections Cut the webbing between sleepers under the outside rail. This allows them to fan out with the radius and remain perpendicular to the rails, rather than twisting which can look odd, resist the curvature, and cause gauge narrowing at this radius After all that the track should be close to the desired radius. I then glue it down with PVA, holding the shape with track pins next to the rails/sleepers rather than through the sleepers. Once the glue is dry you can remove the track pins. Insulfrog points can cause issues at low speeds, I'd avoid them on a shunting layout but I don't think it will be a big issue on this fun little layout!
  13. I use fine granite ballast, I think intended for N-gauge. But the look of the ballast varies by line, and even by location - sheds and yards often had ash ballast, very fine and dark. I've used sand or sand/plaster mixes before (applied dry). I'd recommend painting the rails rusty brown first (not orange or red - I used Humbrol 113 I think). Make sure the rail sides and foot are covered well, including inside. Clean the tops and top inside edge with paper towel or even a block of wood while wet, then clean properly with a fibreglass stick or track rubber afterwards. Don't worry about getting a little paint on the chairs, but try not to coat the sleepers. Next for a really good effect, dry-brush the sleepers with a grey-brown, though not essential. After ballasting is done and dry, apply a thin wash of track brown to the ballast and sleepers. You can use cheap acrylic for this. It tones everything together, removes the over-clean look of the ballast and the shine of the plastic sleepers. It is very easy and quick to do, just make it well thinned - you can always add a second coat. In yard areas I sometimes add sand to the ballast to fill the gaps and make it look clogged, then paint dark grey to represent ash. IMG_5956 by Michael Campbell, on Flickr
  14. Very nice. Does the Ruston run well without the match truck?
  15. Ooh, pretty. I don't draw the wires on my wiring diagrams, just the connections they make. Not as pretty though. If I've got it right the blue circles are the point operating switches, with yellow wires to the servos, and red to the frog. However is not the input to the lower side of the second point the frog output of the first? Or does it not work that way with a 3-way point? (Would a 3-way rotary switch be better for a 3-way point?)
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