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KenB

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  1. The plates have been installed. Now on with building the layout.
  2. I have checked all the levers are correct for the routes on the box diagram and found several conflicts which I have corrected. Next stage is to fit the lever plates to the frame.
  3. Bow Lock Signal Diagram.docxHaving now installed all the working signals it was time to document what the levers do so I created the signal box diagram and locking (route proving ) chart plus the labels for the lever frame.Bow Lock Signal Diagram.docx
  4. Lots of excellent detail on the specific signalling system at Hayling Island written here. I would like to offer a a few pointers regarding basic signalling and locking systems. A facing point need only be locked for the passage of a passenger train. A trailing point does not have to locked. The locking lever (blue) is usually pulled out the frame to release the point lever (black). The point is pulled and the blue lever replaced in the frame locking the point. Once the correct levers are set for the road this will release the signal lever (red). A locking bar if attached to a locking lever will ensure no rolling stock or locomotive is foul of the clearance point. It is a mechanical track circuit which prevents bashing trains together. The levers are badged with the same info as displayed on the diagram. Studying the diagram I read this as follows:-to operate lever 10 you would first pull 4 to release the points 5, pull 5 and replace 4 to lock points 5 and with 7 fully out the frame pull 10 this will lock levers 1, 4 and 7. Pulling lever 8 would then also lock 1,4 and 7. To releasae lever 8 would require the signal box in advance to release that lever. Once 10 then 8 are put back in the frame all levers are released with seven being centred. What is not clear to me is how the Tyers staff and ticket system affects the frame locking for down trains , which I believe it must because the regulation 440yd clearing point beyond the down home signal appears to be the buffer stops. This in turn raises a question of operating in fog and falling snow where 880 yards is required. The up trains advanced starter must be released by the Tyers system by the box i advance as mentioned. The key to operating this box will be sight of the signal box special operating instructions.
  5. The control of Bow Locks Junction is via 2 Megapoints boards and 45 relays (2spare) and 30 toggle switches. The three on the left are for the locomotive sheds. It is not a locking system but a route proving one. With the lever frame normal a red light indicates which signal levers are available. It turns green when the lever is operated. Set up a route and the red lights appear above the levers applicable to that route. Once a signal is cleared the light for any other signal applicable to that route will go out. The distant cannot be pulled off unless the home above it is off. My aim is to be able to drive trains by obeying the signals. I can then teach people the box. Driving the train is a tad simpler. Now to get the storage siding sorted.
  6. I might try to build a signal lit by an LED. The four bracket signals were my first attempt at constructing working signals and the eagle eyed will no doubt spot the mistakes. The single post ones were the last. Buying a digital solder station made construction so much easier along with some aggressive flux my brother gave me.
  7. image 0008 Overall view of Bow Locks Junction station throat. The signals are all working using megapoints boards and combined with relays and a light on the lever frame indicates which route is set for the signals. A route proving system rather than full interlocking. The levers are simple on-off toggle switches. In this view left to right are up platform 6 starter (platform not constructed.) Gantry up platform 4 to main, up platform 4 to branch, up platform 3 to branch. Platform 3 starter to branch and parcel bay platform 1 starter to branch. Image 0002 This is the down main junction signals. L-R down main to platform 3 below is the calling on signal. The home and distant are for the down main to down main platform 5 the end of which is a starting signal. Pulling off the down main home then the starter allows the distant to come off. Replacing the down main home replaces the distant as well which will not clear again until the down main platform 5 starter is put back. Image 00003 This gantry is located on the branch and L-R to signal 13 which is the 3 arm hanging gantry, branch to Platform 3 and Branch to platform 4. My aim is to have prototypical signals correctly positioned and working. Once the signals
  8. Lighting these signals was a step too far for me Rogerzilla although I had thought about it. It would involve a small PCB with components to reduce the power of the warm white LED to a more sitable glow. The spectacle lens are simply PVC glue filling the hole and once dry a thin wash of blue and red acrylic paint coloured them.
  9. Not yet Rich I am still trying to navigate this site as I am unsure where is the best place to post. Having been a signalman my aim is to have the layout correctly signalled, however as with all models there will be compromise. I have given up trying to make decent working ground signals so these will be static but in the correct location. Where appropriate both end of a point will move using one lever. My brother has installed a relay detection system which indicates which signal is available for the route set via an LED indicator above the lever. The levers are actually toggle switches. So far I have built 4 signal gantries which have a total of 13 working signals and 4 individual posts bringing the total working arms to 17 . This includes a slotted distant signal.
  10. Hi Philip, I used Tillig track throughout the pointwork looked so much better than other offerings but wiring up the slip was a little challenging. I used the Tillig motors but wish I had gone the servo route.
  11. The components used were from the MSE range of parts. Large lattice base post with equal tee brackets soldered on and a 3mm square brass tube soldered to the brackets for the hanging dolls topped with GNR ball finials. Lost wax castings for the lamp brackets and brass tube to take the signal spindles then finished with adlake cast lamps super glued on. The servos are from Hobbyking HK-5330 with a male molex to female JR servo short extension leads attached which allows it to be connected to the Megapoints control board. This also makes disconnection and removal of the signal much easier. You can then use extension leads of a length that suits your requirements or buy a coil of the same 3 core wire (yellow brown red) off ebay to extend the leads to the Megapoints panel. 60th Plasticard was used to make the the unit holding the servos and small self tappers to bolt the two bits together. The gangers dug a 30mm square hole in the baseboardfor the signal to drop into. Once fully tested it will be blended into the scenery. Image shows the signal located and for the eagle eyed the middle arm did overlap the left signal on the prototype.
  12. This is my first post since joining RM Web. This is a copy in 4mm of the up slow line signals at Wood Green 4 which lasted into the 1970's and will control entry into the yard, platform 1 and platform 2 on my fictional east London-ish layout. Thanks goes to those members of RM web whose archival posts spurred me on to have a go at making proper signals.
  13. I am having a lot of trouble trying to set up this powercab. No matter what I do the thing keeps telling me it cannot read the CV. 4 hours so far on a product I was told a kid of 4 can set it up. Might be quicker to find the kid. Any help gratefully received.
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