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Location
Melbourne, Oz
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Interests
LNER in the Ryedale area of God's Own Country (North Yorkshire)
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Fangio changed their profile photo
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Fangio bookmarked a post in a topic Wright writes.....
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Fangio started following Down-Under Railway Modellers
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Fangio started following DJH NER/LNER/BR D20 Kit - Probably a lot of advice required, Wright writes....., Gearbox for mashimas and 5 others
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Dave, thanks for the insight re the J50 brakes. Found a thread from another guru on RMWeb who has been there before me, with some helpful images: Will let you know how I get on.... cheers Chris
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Hi Dave Progressing well with the J50 in lockdown down under. Gearbox made up, chinese motor ready to fit... Any tips for fitting the brake rods/shoes? Any images to share cheers Chris
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Thanks Dave What size wheels did you use - 18mm or 19mm? cheers Fangio
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Hi Dave Love your work on the J50 - have picked up the Mike Trice 3D printed details ready to affix to my old Lima body. Your chassis etch is folded up, ready for solder. Quick question: did you fit the new handrails and knobs before the 3d printed parts, or afterwards? thanks Fangio
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Hi Malcolm, The valve gear is certainly a tad daunting! Keep putting it off... I have been focussing on the Comet chassis for the Jinty of late: now have wheels and motor, and gearbox is on order. Will put those together, then move onto motorising the chassis for the K3. However, I have been distracted with re-wheeling a D11 kit my dad made in the early '70s. Managed to refit the original gearwheel to a new scalelink 9/32 knurled axle, and then fitted 4 markits wheels to that and a standard 1/8th axle (after fitting bearings). Original crank pins wer
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Hi all Thanks Malcolm. The chassis is now together and does fit the body quite well. A little fettling of frame length has improved the fit. As bought, the old Wills body kit included neither backhead nor cab floor; once these were sourced from those lovely gents at SEF, fitting the chassis at the cab end became a simpler process. Next step is to source motor/gearbox combo, which will be coming from hi-level kits. Most likely a mashima 1428 plus hi-flier. Have not started the motion yet.... need another bravery pill (plus soldering practice)
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Thanks Paul. Love the work on Rosedale by the way. Beautiful part of the world, spent plenty of time walking on the top when I was little. I grew up in Sinnington. Although I am now living down under (Melbourne) I plan to build an NER layout based on Sinnington and the Gilling & Pickering line. cheers Chris
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G'day thanks for your post, really helpful. I think you've hit t'nail on t'head with the wheel diameter - suspect the rearmost of the driving wheels may foul the footplate/cab unless I'm careful. ( quick question: when you write 21.4mm wheel diameter, is that from flange to flange, or just around the barrel? Cheers) I was thinking of 40:1, and I reckon the High level Hi-Flier with a 1428 will fit and will be ideal. Have been in touch with the guys at High Level, they are proving very helpful - same with Dave at Roxey Mouldings. I plan to fin
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Hi John thanks the post - in answer to your questions: plenty of years experience on plastic/resin/mixed media 1/32 kits, including kit bashing, air-brush etc. However, just taken the leap and started practicing soldering on 2nd hand whitemetal and brass wagon kits. (First whitemetal kit went together like a charm... until I discovered it was a broad gauge wagon kit ) No, no compensation for the chassis. Rigid will do, to run around R3 curves on code 100 track No experience of chassis building - mainly been sticking to servicing old LNER Triang/Hornby stock c
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Hi Richard thanks for your response - yes, there was a full set of Nu-cast motion that went with the package. Not tackled that yet, but will give it a bash I am just waiting on a tapered reamer to arrive and then I will tackle the chassis. If that does not go together fair and true, I will opt for the SEF version. The guys there have been very helpful with advice so far. cheers Chris PS - nice work on that SR example! I have a Schools class kit that my dad put together in the '70s on a Triang chassis that I will attempt to rewheel in coming mo
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Morning gurus Long time browser, first time poster to the community ... and relative newbie to loco kitbuilding. I am building a Wills Finecast LNER K3 I picked up on the auction platform. The castings are in pretty good nick, all things considered. As part of the package a chassis was provided in the form of an RSB Models frames kit. I can't find any info on this manufacturer, nor the frames kit itself. Before I shell out my hard-earned on motor/gearbox/wheels etc - can anyone advise if the chassis/frames are any good? Any tips or inside info?