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About GWR57xx

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  1. @Stringfingerling sorry, only just found this thread. My first 43xx (eventually returned for a replacement) was jerky at slow speed, but only running forwards. It ran nicely in reverse. This was due to a chewed up drive gear. The brass worm gear on the motor shaft couples to a straight cut plastic (nylon?) drive gear, so only the very edge of the drive gear is engaged, and it’s the opposite edge when running in the opposite direction. The replacement also ran a bit lumpy at first, but after four hours of running in on a rolling road it now runs sweetly in both directions. I’m not
  2. I am wondering how the BR loco and brakevan will return down the branch? Will the brakevan be propelled all the way? Can you add a small run-round loop in the sidings so that the loco and brakevan can swap positions for the return journey? In real life the loco could sit on the branch while the brakevan was gravity-shunted out of the headshunt, but on the model that would probably require a helping hand from the sky. Just a thought
  3. Hi Rod, I recently built one of Mike's B6 turnout kits. There is a diagram in the downloads section of his website showing the positions of the various chairs (on a B7), but it requires a password - you just need to ask. From this you should be able to work out the best places to use the chairs you have. I'll PM you.
  4. Before I go too far down a wrong path, would emulating the operation of the Triang block instruments be a good starting point? Are the Triang operating instructions correct? It seems to me that there might be a few steps missing in the settings of the switches on the two boxes? @Pacific231G posted the details and instructions here, earlier in this thread: I have something like this in mind (two identical boxes wired together, switch on one sets the pointer on the other, morse key dings bell on other): i.e. an exact knock off of Triang's in
  5. Brian Lambert’s website is full of good information if you haven’t found it before: https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical_Page_2.html Covers exactly your setup I think.
  6. @MartynJPearson great post! Definitely deserves more than just a “like”. Funny, informative, friendly/supportive etc. @JohnR good luck with the layout, hope you resolve the problem. I’ve never used the solenoid type point switch so can’t offer much help, sorry.
  7. @D1037 They look great. Any more details on the internals of the block instruments please? I've just this evening ordered a couple of 3-position switches for the front of my attempt, and already have a solution for the bell and key. Just all the bits in between to sort out!
  8. My current railway room isn’t subject to huge swings of temperature or humidity, so hopefully “yes” and “no” respectively . The new C&L code 131 (was “125”) track is a very loose fit in Exactoscale & PermaWay chairs as well as C&L’s own old chairs. To the extent that inclining a rail to 45 degrees makes the chairs slide off under their own (negligible) weight. i.e. No grip whatsoever. I can’t comment on how well C&L’s new chairs fit because I wasn’t sent any, but I’d hope and expect that they are a perfect fit. I’m not knocking C&L -
  9. It sounds like Phil has a lot on his plate at the moment so I don't want to bother him with a minor complaint. Anyway, I've made a start on the kit with what I've got - I can just add a bit of superglue to the chairs to hold the rail better.
  10. Cryptic message on C&L's website today: I was looking because I recently ordered and just received a 7mm turnout kit with new rail profile but old chairs, which are a very loose fit and are only plain and slide chairs, no bridge. Not impressed, I was expecting the new chairs. Anyway, I hope he is ok and I wish him all the best with his move.
  11. Is this the one?: Link: https://www.normanwisenden.co.uk/1_901706_60_5-western_main_lines_newton_abbot_to_plymouth_including_totnes_quay.asp Looks like a good price too, and says NEW and In Stock.
  12. @SHMD did you finish building this? I was following with interest as it’s something I’d like to have a go at. @MerlinH can I ask what is the big black box with the red handle that you’re using as the three way switch on the front of your instruments? I can’t see it mentioned in your posts or pdf (sorry if it’s there and I missed it). Great stuff - I’m sure there would be a market for something like this - a better looking version of the old Triang signalling instruments (which now go for silly money), using modern technology.
  13. This is how I did mine: I'm very pleased with them. 9mm ply with 32 * 32 * 1.6mm non-anodised aluminium angle.
  14. Hi Lez, If the “American” power supply outputs 12V and has a normal jack plug on it, why can’t you just use a UK 12V power supply with the same plug on it? The 12V is the same whether it started out as 110V AC or 240V AC, so the clock doesn’t know any different. Or did I misunderstand?
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