Jump to content

GWR57xx

Members
  • Content Count

    70
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

64 Neutral

About GWR57xx

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

61 profile views
  1. Thanks Andy, I'll have a look at those. I'm still undecided how to switch the points. Currently thinking of either servos or Cobalt iP's. If I go with servos then the autofrogs would be a good solution, but with the Cobalts I would probably use their internal frog switching.
  2. So the wiring mods I think I need to do are: Cut the two links marked in orange which connect the switch rails to each other and to the wing rails. Add the links shown in purple between the switch rails, check rails and stock rails. I've added extra links to the fishplates that connect the two parts of the switch rails because it doesn't look as though these fishplates will provide good long-term electrical continuity to the moving part of the switch rails from the fixed parts by themselves (they are quite loose when new out of the box, so with use they will only get even looser). Not forgetting to put insulating rail joiners at the ends of the vee rails (yellow). The power feeds are shown as blue & red (DCC bus) and green (frog/crossing vee).
  3. As well as the cosmetic mods to the Peco point, I've also been thinking about the electrical mods. As supplied, the wire links added by Peco provide the following continuity: where the whole of the green section is switched by contact between the switch rails and one of the stock (red/blue) rails (not sure if I've got the terminology correct?). The yellow check rails are isolated. What I think is the ideal configuration is: so the switch and check rails are permanently wired to their adjacent stock rail (red/blue) and the crossing vee and wing rails (green) are electrically switched depending on the position of the tie-bar. Have I got this correct?
  4. While waiting for glue to dry on the ply baseboard beams I thought I'd have a go at de-coffinating my first Peco point. I wanted to retain as much of the existing sleeper structure and slide chairs as possible. As supplied: Lid removed: Box on sleeper #3 ground off: Box on and between sleepers #4 & #5 ground down to sleeper level: Webbing between sleepers #4 & #5 ground down so that it won't be visible after ballasting: And finally the pips cut off the ends of the tie-bar: A bit of cleaning up of the swarf, then I'll try to rebuild the missing bits of sleepers #3, #4 & #5 with maybe DAS or Plastic Putty. I think it's a worthwhile improvement, and I managed not to destroy the point in the process so I'm pleased with it. I might also have a go at reducing the bulge in the tie-bar a bit.
  5. Hi Adrian, I agree with Mulgabill. There must be some weird distortion in that photo if those tracks have 77mm centres ( the closest that any two adjacent tracks should be). I think it would be worth re-checking before you get too far with track laying. Best wishes, Peter
  6. Having wimped out at 3kg in the earlier weight test I then found that a Heljan Class 37 is heavier than this, so here we have 10lb (4.54kg): Both sides still happy with that, so 11.6lb (5.27kg): And finally, 16.6lb (7.54kg): Both adhesives passed this test. I found the PVA to be easier to work with so I think I'll probably stick (sorry) with that. NB: the angle sides are only attached with glue, nothing else.
  7. Next up, the holes were drilled to take the end stops: This cassette is still a work in progress, so still needs the ply rubbing down and treated and the aluminium polishing. Here I've just placed some spacers which will be replaced by a strip of ply or card in between the rails to aid locating stock on the rails. A Minerva Iron Mink does gauge testing: The end stops are comfortably above buffer level on the stock: Hope this might be of use to someone in the future...
  8. The glue has been left for 24 hours so time for a test to see which (if either) adhesive is up to the job. Test weights: 3lb (1.36kg), 5lb (2.27kg) & 3kg (6.6lb). Cassette suspended by the angle on one side only: The weight will be taken by the adhesive bond between the ply and the clamped piece of angle, so ought to be a fair test. The 3lb & 5lb weights were tried first and neither adhesive failed, so up to the 3kg weight. Sticks Like Sh*t: And PVA: Both sides held without any apparent distress.
  9. End stops for the cassettes will be made from the following bits: The larger piece on the left was my "proof of concept" test, which I was pleased with so decided to stick with. The two smaller pieces are the width and height of the aluminium angle so fit nicely in the ends of the cassette, although it is the tails on the brackets that hold them securely in place. The white stops are 5mm foam board (the stuff used for outdoor signs, not the spongy stuff sold by Hobbycraft etc). This is very light, rigid and strong. The fittings are shelf brackets (the hole needs widening slightly to accept the stud). The studs are belt rivets. Holes marked and drilled: The finished end stops:
  10. I'm modelling in 7mm FS and would like to have a 3-way point for space saving. I looked at Marcway and was tempted, but I think the lack of chair detail would niggle me. So I'm coming round to the idea of building one but I don't have the confidence or experience to build from scratch. I'd want to use pre-made frogs and wing rails, either Peco or C&L. I've downloaded Templot and worked through the tutorial to create some templates for 3-way points, but I have no idea what the frog angle (for example) of the Peco individulay components is. Would I be restricted to (say) only making B6 turnouts with the Peco frog? Can anyone recommend a "beginners" kit of parts to make a 3-way that would be compatible with Peco track? I don't want to solder track to copperclad sleepers. I'd much prefer to glue chairs to either plastic or ply sleepers. Sorry this is a bit rambling!
  11. Hi Paudie, If you haven't come across it yet I recommend the program AnyRail for your track planning. It's a free download for evaluation and as long as your layout is less than 50 pieces of track. It's very easy to use, and has pre-configured libraries of track geometry for most ranges of track, including Peco. You just drag and drop track into place, and you can easily manipulate them to represent flexi-track. It will show you exactly what will fit in your space. Many RMWebbers use it, myself included.
  12. I think that the foam will also help to deaden sound transmission, but that's only a supposition on my part. I know that my baseboards are over-engineered, but I consider the extra cost and effort at this point is well worth the peace of mind of never having to worry about them again. This is a long-term project for me, and I don't want to find that in a couple of year's time I'm having to rip everything up because a baseboard has warped.
  13. A bit of progress to report. I now have the necessary materials so have put together my first test bed cassette. Here are the parts: 9mm ply base, 100mm wide, length to suit the particular loco (in this case probably a Pannier or Class 08). The (non-anodised) aluminium angle is 1.25" * 1.25" * 1/16" (31.8mm * 31.8mm * 1.6mm). This leaves a gap of ~2mm along each side between the angle and the edge of the ply so that two cassettes can be pushed together without the aluminium sides touching. The parts dry-fitted (the ruler in the middle is exactly 32mm wide so makes a perfect track gauge): I have no idea what the best adhesive is for gluing aluminium to ply so this first attempt will be a test of two possible types, PVA (Resin W) and Sticks Like Sh*t: First piece of angle glued down with PVA: Second piece of angle glued down with Sticks Like Sh*t: This will now be left to set for 24 hours...
  14. Hi Paudie, What size are you thinking of? I've just started a similarly themed layout here: Hinton Road Engine Shed Mine will be 16' x 3', but that's in 7mm O gauge. In OO that should easily fit in 8' x 2' or less. There are several threads on here on similar layouts - search for "road engine shed" or "coaling stage" will bring some up.
  15. A pallet load of ply has arrived, all perfectly cut to my specification: So I've made a start on the first of many ply sandwich beams that will make up the baseboards. First step was to clamp together two of the 6mm ply sides that will be the joining pieces between two baseboards, so that positions for alignment dowels could be marked and pilot drilled: That done, the parts for the first beam were dry assembled: This beam will have four alignment dowels, so there is a softwood block at each dowel position. The spaces between the softwood blocks will be filled with XPS foam cut to size. XPS weighs virtually nothing, is very stiff and glues perfectly with PVA. I think it will add significant strength to each beam. The first softwood block being PVA'd in place: Two blocks done, two more to go (I only had four clamps at the time - I've now bought several more!): All four blocks now PVA'd in place. I am not using any screws, nails or pins, just glue. Time will tell whether this is sensible or not. Note the polystyrene prop under the clamp. This is to support the ply which sagged significantly under the weight of the clamps: XPS filler blocks glued in place and clamped: Inner 6mm ply panel ready to be fixed. Note the inner panel is shorter than the outer panel to provide an overlapped joint at the baseboard corners: Glued, clamped and weighted down: And finally, my first completed ply sandwich beam: This beam is 1m long, 110mm deep and 32mm thick (6mm ply sides, 20mm infill). I can't bend it or twist it so I am fairly confident that the resulting baseboards will be strong and durable. The layout is not intended to be portable, just transportable in case I ever move house or find a better home for it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.