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Posts posted by rynd2it
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2 minutes ago, kevinlms said:
On a previous layout which was to EM gauge, I used gauge narrowing to my advantage.
I was using the Ratio track and for the sharpest curve, I used some of their 18.83 track base, which I had accidentally purchased!
The final track gauge when laid was about 18.4mm and worked perfectly!
That's gauge widening
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This is academic, it was set track and fell apart when lifted. It's been replaced and now works fine.
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3 hours ago, proton said:
I model in P4 18.83 mm gauge and some older makes of plastic-based track would become under-gauge, especially on curves. I cut the outer sides of some of the chairs, allowing the rail to move outwards very slightly, and then I was able, just, to insert a track gauge. The application of a soldering iron for a few seconds allowed the gauge to set to the correct value, and a few drops of superglue secured everything,
Definitely works for me.
John
Thanks for that, interesting.
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2 minutes ago, Dungrange said:
But does it just about fit, or is there not a hope in hell of it fitting, even with 0.5mm removed from the inside edge of the rails? 🙂
I can just about force it in over a length of about 7", anyway I've bought the replacement track
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9 minutes ago, SR71 said:
If you are going to damage the track anyway as a last resort before doing that could you wet and dry the inside edge of the rail to open it back out through the tight spot? How much is it tight by?
The track gauge won't fit
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I've decided to bite the bullet and replace the two pieces, this is booked for an exhibition in May so I need to get a move on.
Thanks for the input
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12 minutes ago, Flying Pig said:
If the stress on the rails is making the gauge narrow, wouldn't relaxing the rail fixings just allow the gauge to narrow further?
It might but is it worth trying?
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On a 009 layout I inherited the sharp curves appear to be set track, everywhere else is Peco flex. The track is fully ballasted so changing it would be a pain.
However, there is one place where all locos just stop. After thoroughly cleaning the track and the loco wheels to no avail, I started examining the area more closely and finally discovered that the gauge appears to be narrowing - I can't get track gauge to fit in that area.
I really would prefer not to lift the track and I was wondering if gentle heating and manipulating with the track gauge would work to widen the gauge.
Comments and suggestions please especially if you have experienced this before.
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I have just done some experiments, the soldering iron trick as in the video works well, the abrasive paper also works but needed quite coarse grit - 180 and not as neat
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1 hour ago, Michael Hodgson said:
It's probably Kynar wire; doesn't burn off under a soldering iron and too fine to strip with cutting tools.
You melt it off
.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mddc1JX-EWI
Don't get the iron too close to the LED itself or you can cause heat damage
That looks like it might do the job although as the last comment on the video said - it's not Kynar wire.
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2 minutes ago, idd15 said:
You may find you actually burn off the insulation with your soldering iron, there are “enamelled “ wires made so you can do this. The trade name escapes me at the moment! Alternatively you could use fine abrasive paper by gently pulling the wire through it.
hth
idd
I can't change the wires but the abrasive paper might work, I'll try it
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4 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:
In that case, very carefully!
But seriously, I strip decoder thin wires with my teeth, I don't let anything, knife or cutters, with a sharp edge anywhere near the cable.
Mike.
These are thinner than decoder wires, only slightly thicker than human hair. I was wondering if there was a chemical that would dissolve the coating
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4 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:
Are they enamelled wires?, if so, you should be able to solder through them.
Mike.
No they seem to be plastic coated
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I have some 1mm leds with very thin wires. What's the best way to strip these wires so I can solder onto them?
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Just now, Clive Mortimore said:
They are saved as pngs, the quality of the photocopies I was given years ago isn't any better.
OK, thanks. I can make out most of the details probably enough to work out scaled to N gauge dimensions
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5 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:
Hi
That is a link to the missing drawings which I have reposted.
I can save the images you posted but the quality isn't too great, was hoping for the original jpgs
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5 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:
Hi
Which link? The one posted by Junctionmad worked for me. Or is my drawings?
The photo by Junctionmad is fine, but the links referred to in Dagworths post don't work, come up unavailable
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HI,
The links seem broken again - please can you reupload or save to somewhere shareable?
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ALL RIGHT! a friend reminded me of where I got it from:
To save you watching it all it is 5gm per cm between the buffer stocks.
But the video is worth a look, if a tad OTT ;)
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10 minutes ago, NIK said:
Hi,
The NMRA have info on weighting rolling stock. Their figures may be more suitable for very long freight trains and you might get away with a bit less.
If the train is too heavy the loco may struggle for speed and grip.
Regards
Nik
The NMRA numbers are based on USA practice with bogie wagons and very long trains; I'm running 009 with about 4 - 5 short wheelbase wagons. Like I said, there is a simple formula out there but I can't find it.
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4 minutes ago, melmerby said:
I would've thought just enough to keep it on the track.
And how much is that? The formula worked well, I just can't find it, nor do I have access to the rolling stock I fitted.
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I read somewhere on here that someone had come up with a simple formula for adding weight to rolling stock. It was somwething like grams per cm of length between buffer stocks but I can't find it even using the search engine.
Anyone recall this and can point me in the right direction?
Thanks
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UPDATE. I sent it to Bachmann and they have repaired it by replacing the bogies and contacts, now it runs great. Still no idea what exactly or why it failed and I still don't know how to get the body off.
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I have a 009 layout, the baseboards track and track plan were all inherited so all I'm doing is adding my ideas of features to the plan. I've got as far as creating some background scenery and features such as the river and mill, a station and loco shed/coal yard, a goods yard area and a small canal basin. The roadway will run at the front between the canal basin and baseboard edge. I've attached a photo of the area as it is now.
I am undecided as to what boundaries I should create between "railway" property and public access. One idea I have is designate it all railway property and forget about fences etc. Or I could make the canal basin and roadway public and put a fence just behind the basin separating the goods yard. A similar problem occurs at the other end where I have a station forecourt between the station track and the roadway; here I think there has to be a dividing fence with the roadway in the "public" area.
Any comments, ideas etc appreciated
Gauge narrowing?
in Permanent Way, Signalling & Infrastructure
Posted
Sorry I misread it