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Posts posted by rynd2it

  1. 16 minutes ago, Dungrange said:


    My understanding is that the NCE PowerCab starter set is a 2 Amp system, so under a short circuit scenario your PowerCab will probably be able to supply something like 2.1 or 2.2 Amps to the track, before shutting itself down, so that is the current that you should be designing for.



    The NCE PowerCab will have it's own overload protection, but you can set up a circuit breaker with a lower rating - for example, the DCCSpecialities PSX can be set to cut out at 1.27 Amps


    Thanks for that



  2. 23 minutes ago, Michael Hodgson said:


    Yes.  If you divide your layout into zones or "power districts" and fit district cut-outs, they should be rated for a lower maximum current than the limit the command station (or booster) will apply.

    The advantages of these devices, more applicable to a large layout, are that

    • you don't have to examine the whole layout to locate the cause of the short
    • only the relevant part of the layout stops in the event of a short, and the rest keeps going, very useful at exhibitions

    It's rather like one of your upstairs lights blowing a fuse (or the modern MCB equivalent) but the rest of the house electrics are still working rather than having the 100A master fuse for the  house blowing.

    It's a tiny 009 layout, one or two little locos.


    Power districts is overkill



  3. 12 minutes ago, Crosland said:


    Sorry, and I know I can be a bit of a pedant :) but droppers have to be able to carry the full overload current in the case of a short circuit, especially if a single dropper feeds an isolated section of track (such as a frog). It's only the short length that allows thinner wire to be used.



    How do you calculate the full overload current? Knowing, as you do, the equipment I'm using (NCE PowerCab, 009 locos) how to determine this?  


    And isn't it possible to build in an overload protection?



  4. 26 minutes ago, Ron Ron Ron said:


    By " Mains Cable" I hope you are talking about the cable used for the track bus?

    As Andymsa says above, similar sized cable.


    Here's something that's being missed.

    With the PowerCab, the Power Bus (Track Bus) doesn't originate from the Power Cab Panel (PCP).

    The system's Power Bus output comes from within the PowerCab handset itself, as it contains both the Command Station and the system's Booster.

    As such, the Power Bus output is carried down 2 of the 6 wires in the flat handset cable, to the PCP.

    That cable has thicker gauge wire cores than a normal 6-core RJ cable, hence the warnings on the NCE website, not to use substitute, non-proprietary 6-core alternatives.

    The PCP is nothing but a glorified junction box or terminal block. It doesn't do anything else.


    So, in answer to the question  "what would you run from the control panel to the mains cable track bus?

    Bear in mind if the track bus wires are not connected directly to the terminals on the back of the PCP, there will be 3 sections of wiring between the output from the PowerCab, to the track feeds.

    The 6-core RJ cable from the PowerCab to the PCP,

    the connection from PCP to the Track Bus and

    the Track Bus.

    All of these sections together form the PowerCab's Power Bus.

    There's a 4th element, or section, as the rails themselves are also part of the Power Bus.




    The track bus wires cannot be directly connected to the back of the PCP unless I mount the PCP directly on one of the baseboards, even then the wire size would probably be too large for the connector supplied with the PCP. I was planning on a detachable control panel (it's a portable layout) which is no problem with the EzyBus which only needs two pairs in a CAT5e cable.


    However, as you point out above, the PowerCab is connected through an RJ cable which I have just measured at 6.5 mm wide. There are 6 wires in it and therefore they cannot be bigger than 1.0 mm so why would I need anything heavier to connect the PCP to the track bus?


    My track bus will only ever carry the load for one or two 009 locos, no sound or lights, so I was hoping to get away with a smaller wire size.



  5. 8 hours ago, Andymsa said:

    you can also get multistranded mains cable, this type is used in conduit generally. I use two sizes of this 1.5 and 2.5mm sq. I don’t bother with striping cable I just buy 100 meter drums at £10.00 a drum approx the time and effort to strip cable is just not worth it. But as you point out avoid solid type.


    as to the accessory bus wire I assume this is Dcc, it’s not about its current carrying abilities but how much volt drop and resistance that’s introduced using smaller sized wire.

    As I said, accessory bus is NOT DCC, it's Ezybus by MERG and uses Cat5e cables.

  6. Everywhere I look it recommends using a wire size of at least 16/.02 for the track bus, some places twice that size. However, does that wire size need to be that big right back to the DCC power panel - I'm using an NCE starter kit with the Power Panel which has RJ45 plugs for the controller and a small PCB connector on the back for the track connections.



  7. 12 minutes ago, Nile said:

    It matters if you are using DCC as you will get a short circuit. It could also affect DC control if the track is powered at the time.

    The blades need to be bonded to their respective stock rails to get good continuity and to prevent shorts from oversized wheel flanges. Therefore you have to isolate the frog. Modern Peco points already have this done but these are old ones


  8. 18 hours ago, Nile said:

    Some thoughts:

    a) In my experience servos are strong enough to throw the points with the spring in place.

    b) I'd make a connection to the tie bar on the surface, maybe a short length of wire-in-tube or similar to where the servo can be mounted, or connected to.

    c) I wouldn't make any changes to the point, just wire up the frog and switch it electrically.

    If I switch the frog I'll have a dead short as both blades are connected to it. The frog has to be isolated. Servos mount under the baseboard and I think I have a way to remove the spring but I will see how it works with it in place


  9. I have inherited an 009 layout which has the track already laid down. I intend to operate the points with servos and have run into a couple of snags


    a)   I cannot remove the springs which lock the point blades, these are old points and the access to the spring is underneath. Can I leave the springs in place when using servos?


    b)   The person who laid the track did not drill any holes for the point operation. I have tried to drill from the bottom up after drilling a tiny pilot hole through the hole in the tie bar. I have had limited success by placing a No 10 scalpel blade under the tie bar to stop the drill bit which is marked with a depth gauge of white tape. Anyone got another solution?


    c)  The points are all electrofrog but being old the frog is electrically connected to the switch blades. I don't want to rely on blade contact with the stock rail for continuity so I'm thinking cut the blades one sleeper away from the switch blade pivot and then bond the blade to its stock rail and have a frog switch for polarity. Is this the right way to go?


    Thanks in advance





  10. I will have to totally rewire anyway with a heavier wire for the buss. The stock rail/blade contact is never reliable so I would add jumper wires if I can isolate the blades from the frogs, dead frogs would help for once. 


    I agree with you on the heritage idea but as I just did one I was thinking about creating a working line this time


    Thanks for the input



  11. I rescued an 009 layout from being dumped with a view to one day finishing it. 

    It has two baseboards 4' x 2' and all the track is laid with some very rudimentary wiring and the backscene supports are will fixed down. The immediate plan is to mount it on folding legs, repair any damage to the track and get something running. I am undecided on DC or DCC and I have yet to closely examine the point frogs etc to see if this will influence the decision. This is my continuing lock down project to allow me to run some trains just keep me from going totally stir-crazy ;)

    Here's the basic track plan and one idea I have been mulling over.

    I'd appreciate any comments and/or ideas for a period, style, industries etc; it's basically a blank canvas but I'm not looking to change the track plan, just use it.




    • Like 2
  12. 12 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

    Bit of lateral thinking .  Traverser has 4 usable roads, blue is pushed all the way one way, orange the other,   Couple of spurs added behind scenery beside tunnel entrance.  Train arrives, Traverser moves to align with a spur, (needs 2 spurs as only 3 roads align with each spur).  Loco uncouples runs onto spur. Traverser moves to align spare road with spur. Loco runs to  other spur. Traverser aligns train with loco and loco pushes train back slightly and couples up. Traverser re aligns with exit road.  Simples.  No big hand, no broken handrails.

    Screenshot (11).png

    Interesting idea but challenging to get all those tracks to align properly especially at the baseboard join . I'll plot it all out with Templot and see how it fits. Thanks



  13. 5 hours ago, TheQ said:

    Fine, we're all in 6  person Bubbles , so most nights there is a group at the club.

    I'm in Fridays as usual,  John on his O gauge layout, Brian,  Hazel and Chas on Herrington which is all but finished and a Layout that was recently gifted to the club.. It's tired so needs some scenic renovation but it looks generally a good layout. 


    Clive has withdrawn from the club due to ill heath.


    The big storm we had Friday / Saturday led to trees down all over the place and the power going off in many areas, we could hear something sliding on the clubhouse roof in the wind which suggests there is roof damage..

    Sounds great, best wishes to all and if they want to know what we are up to there is a new Facebook group 1687 Model Railways.



    • Like 1
  14. 41 minutes ago, TheQ said:

    I'm wondering if you had a slot the length of the traverser underneath in the supports and a pin  from the traverser dropping into it. You could pull out the other end to 90 degrees, slide the pin end from one end to the other then slide the traverser back into place. There not being space for a proper rotating traverser..


    Hello Q, is all well at the BMRC these days?



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