rynd2it
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Posts posted by rynd2it
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32 minutes ago, ikcdab said:
If it got magnetised in then there must be a way in. Have a good look with a torch and a magnifying glass. The body should come off somehow and that won't invalidate the warranty.
Well there have been requests for this but no answers so far. Anyone know how to get the body off?
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2 minutes ago, longchap said:
I have the same issue, also living in France. For acrylics, I use the mail order service from Passion 132: https://www.passion132.com/gb/1467-colors
They carry an extensive range of brands and colours, with good prices (far better than Amazon) and excellent mail order service at sensible costs and of course, no Brexit tax!
You do not mention which era you model, although your avatar suggests steam era. This has a distinctive impact on track weathering and prototype photographs are essential to get the right look and feel for your era, particularly with steam, where black oily deposits were not the predominant norm. Station running lines and goods areas are also different. Fortunately, research is fun and informative. I would suggest that you do not simply copy photos of a model railway, as the prototype is the best source for inspiration and accuracy and even black and white photography can be usefully interpreted if you model early 20th century.
Bon courage 😎
Thank you for that - I will check them out. Any other recommendations for French suppliers would be appreciated, I currently use Baron du Rail, Star boutique and micro modele
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11 minutes ago, ikcdab said:
Track was very varied in its colouring depending on state of weathering. It really doesn't matter what shade of general brown grot you use.
In the absence of railway colours, military modellers paints are great.
I now try to avoid humbrol paints which are not what they once were. Tamiya, mig and Vallejo acrylics are far superior.
Good point, any recommendations from the Valljo range ( I have some)
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10 minutes ago, Michael Hodgson said:
Something like a track pin found its way into the mech, attracted perhaps by motor magnet during handling?
Interesting idea and plausible - but how to get at the motors? I can see no way to do this and it would invalidate the warranty if I could.
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I was recommended to use Humbrol DB0173 matt track paint for airbrushing the track bed, rails etc. However, it seems this particular shade is unobtainable in France and rather than incurring shipping and customs costs etc, is there a suitable alternative that I might be able to find here. There are stockists of Humbrol and Vallejo - just not the one I wanted.
Suggestions please
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I'm beginning to suspect the pick-up to wheel contact though why that should manifest itself now is beyond me. It's beyond my pay grade to start stripping it down so it looks as though I shall have to contact Bachmann.
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16 hours ago, 313201 said:
The other possibility I would investigate is whether there is a short on the chassis, this could be either wires touching or a fault in the motor.
Another possibility although a slim chance would be has 1 of the driving axles been fitted the wrong way round which would also cause a short.
No shorts detectable - as for the axle, not likely after several monhs of running
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18 hours ago, D9020 Nimbus said:
Looks like it isn't reliably picking up current—I'd suggest wheel cleaning as the first option.
Wheels are clean, first thing I did.
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I have owned my Double Fairlie (Livingstone Thompson) for almost a year and it has always run beautifully. However about 6 weeks ago I had to pack some stuff away for plumbers to get to my railway room and I put all the rolling stock into a glass front display cabinet.
On getting it all out again, the Fairlie will simply not run, the most I can get from it is the sound and a brief motion of about 1 or two turns of the wheels, then it cuts out and the sound stops. Nudging it slightly simply repeats the process for about 1 -2 seconds.
I know it isn't the track or the control system as I have other locos (including a new Double Fairlie) and they all run great. I cannot imagine how this has failed as it was running great when I put it away.
Anyone any ideas or suggestions?
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On 18/11/2022 at 20:03, Kylestrome said:
Completely and utterly ...
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12 hours ago, monkeysarefun said:
Luke Towan is an Aussie guy on youtube, his tutorials include road finishes etc. Has over a million subscribers which is impressive for a scenic modelling channel so he must be doing something right. Worth a watch at least.
Thanks for that, I'll check it out
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On 18/11/2017 at 20:08, Kylestrome said:
If you can get hold of it, the German firm Heki do a textured paint, Heki 6601 Strassenfarbe (Road Colour), which I have used with some success for asphalt road surfaces.
Probably the most expensive grey undercoat I've ever bought - almost an exact match for the Dulux Weathershield I use for a baseboard base coat. Useless
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Update. The PVA trick failed - the paint dissolved the PVA, so I've been using a hardware store grey primer which does seem to do the trick. The only problem is to get a fine enough spray so as not to mask any detail. As soon as my airbrush is up & running I'll try with that. Washing doesn't seem to help when using the primer but it does if painting direct onto the plastic.
Thanks for all the input
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I think shunting mode is analogous to yard mode and basically turns off all the momentum, acceleration and deceleration features. It gives direct control to allow very short movements
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19 hours ago, CotBob said:
My Livingston Thompson has developed some odd behaviour running on DCC at a constant regulator setting it behaves as the video link below
This behaviour is the same regardless of the regulator position it will speed up and then act as if the regulator was shut and opened again. The speed sometimes stays at the set level for a little longer but still slows and accelerates again. I hope that there is some setting in the CV values that needs tweaking but I don't know what. I have run it against a stop so as to rule out track issues as slipping it should always be under power and not slow. Can someone please help?
Does this happen with any other loco? If so, I'd start with measuring the output from the controller, if not then definitely a call to Bachmann is indicated. I found Bachmann very helpful but you'll probably have to send it to them.
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10 minutes ago, 57xx said:
Have tried washing the plastic in warm soapy water, use an old toothbrush? I've used the Vallejo model air primer recently and it went down a treat whether by going through my airbrush or brush painting smaller parts. It is a good product so I would think it is the plastic at fault and whatever you try on it may have problems unless you can pin down the issue.
That's my conclusion at this point, somehow the plastic is preventing the paint from sticking. Very light sanding does help but I've got a load of parts to paint this week so I'll try the soap & water firts.
Thanks for the tip
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Fencing is always one of the very last jobs, it's too easily damaged when other work is going on. The weigh bridge is a problem as wherever I place it there is no turning room even for a small lorry. When I finish the timber yard I'll be able to experiment more and I will post the result
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In the first photo there's no room for the timber yard hence the move to the other end; I can make a bit more space near the point. I take your comment on the crane but I want to be able to see it😉
Thanks for the insight, all good input
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On 24/10/2022 at 11:31, MrTea said:
This is an absolute steal at the moment:I’d be melting my credit card if I didn’t already have one!
I just melted mine 😃 and I do already have one (the maroon one). I could not resist this, such a great model and I had to buy a couple of green livery coaches as well!
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28 minutes ago, phil_sutters said:
I might be tempted to extend the goods shed siding, so that timber could be unloaded directly into the timber yard. A lot of timber handling was manual, even on a large scale in docks. A small timber level crossing could still give you access to the rear siding. The small ramped platform could then be turned into a cattle dock, with the addition of some fencing and gates.
That's an interesting idea, might try it when I've finished the timber yard building, thnaks
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Thanks all good input, I had actually tried that idea
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8 minutes ago, john new said:
Use of a pva/water 50:50 layer as a primer works. Dries see through so if weathering you don't need to repaint the base model and then use easy option cheap water based paints. Agree though with others, the cheap tube acriylcs are really intended for painting onto paper etc., pretty much thick and neat.
I'll give that a try, thanks
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25 minutes ago, Kylestrome said:
Maybe the situation would improve if started using paints that are actually formulated for brush painting?
The labels indicate they are suitable for air brush or regular brushes
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Coming back to this topic as I've discovered a repeat of the problem. I have acquired a set of air brush colours from Vallejo plus their grey primer. I tried to use the primer with a brush on plastic kit parts (Wills signal box interior) and the same thing happened, just ran off and didn't stick.
I'm beginning to think the plastic has some coating on it which is preventing the paint from sticking but if so, what is it and how to safely remove it?
Track paint - recommendations
in Weathering, Painting & Transfers
Posted
Thanks , I'll check that out