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rynd2it

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Posts posted by rynd2it

  1. I've come up with Plan 'C' - brain working overtime in the middle of the night! If I move the Goods Shed much closer to the point on the near siding, I can create a space for the timber yard at the end. The loading dock can have a small crane for unloading timber wagons etc. Minimum disturbance to track work and I think it looks OK. Any comments?

    Plan_C.jpg

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  2. 19 minutes ago, Mike Harvey said:

    I think that the main building layout works fine as you have it.  The outside platform might benefit from having a small crane for accessing open wagons. The weighbridge would normally be located so a vehicle could drive on to it, and then drive off without needing to change direction. I do not think that you have the space for that realistically, so reassigning the small office to another purpose would seem a good solution. 

    Thanks for the input - I may just ditch the weighbridge altogether. I'll build the timber yard first though just to try it out.

     

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  3. The buildings are basically finished - just waiting for lighting before sticking the roofs on. Here is the completed set placed on my 009 layout. 

     I'm not convinced about the location layout, the white rectangle is where the timber yard would fit and the little hut at the back is a small scrap yard. The weighbridge and it's office are not very prototypical or practical.

    One solution would be to shorten the siding the building is on right now and move it to the back siding giving more forecourt room and visibility. I was intending to use the back siding as a carriage depot but on such a small layout that might be overkill and the shortened siding would be sufficient.

    OK, what do you all think - I'd appreciate any input here

    105_Goods_depot.jpg

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  4. Thanks for those two pieces of information. In the N gauge kit, they seem to want you to use the external platform as an end loading dock to the track that runs through the shed. It would seem to make more sense to place it at the opposite end to the office as an extension to the internal platform. I see some interesting experiments in my future 😉

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  5. I'd be very interested in anyone's input on this kit which I'm about to start on. Any pictures of the completed model in situ on a layout would be very interesting to me; especially if they show how the external platform has been used. I keep looking at this part and wondering how it was intended to be incorporated as it just seems to be a stand alone part and not connected in any way to the main building; logically or physically. 

     

     

  6. 24 minutes ago, ikcdab said:

    Depends what you mean by "a few".  Wire size is dependent on the current passing through it. I think a white led consumes around 10 to 20 milliamps, so 10 would need around 150 milliamps. That is tiny and even the thinnest wire should be ok.

    I've never heard of LEDs melting wire!

    Ian

     

    Ten would be more than adequate for what I have in mind - is there a wire spec (like the 7/0.2) that I could look for?

     

  7. On 23/05/2022 at 12:38, animotion said:

    Just wondering if anyone out there has written an Arduino sketch for bouncing signals and would be willing to share it. If not I will have to create one which I will post here.

    I do have such a sketch but it was for an older layout I no longer work with. Given my experiences with that layout I would not use an Arduino Nano or Uno alone, they are far too susceptible to interference and several signal were damaged by start up 'twitches' - sharp move to 180 degrees and back. I'd take a good look at the MERG offerings, especially EzBus which greatly simplifies things.

     

  8. 1 minute ago, teaky said:

    These look like cheap paints from one of the budget shops.  I think you would be better off buying proper modelling acrylics for your models and use these up for scenic work either diluted further as washes or dry brushed.

    I traced them to Poundland so you are right, I used some black from my wife's set and it worked fine

     

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  9. I have a set of acrylic paints in a box of about 20 and have no issues with them except drying out in the tubes over time. However, as part of a club evening regarding painting and mixing, I acquired these two tubes of black and white paint but I'm having great difficulty in applying them. 

     

    Regardless of whether the plastic surface is primed or not (worse if not) these two colours just won't stick - it's like painting with water, the pigment just runs off and won't cover anything. What is the possible problem? Are these paint just not suitable?

     

    Any help appreciated

     

     

    IMG_20220726_125610393.jpg

  10. 1 hour ago, TT-Pete said:

    I use these on my layout, made out of hard foam they can be cut and glued as required: Noch 58054

    image.png.d134f63db7b55328db5645431d93ee12.png

     

     

    That's the style (approximately) but they are expensive - €16.49 each plus shipping at €7.99. I need about 6 of them so over €100. 

    However, if you can tell me the width and depth of the buttresses on those, I can replicate  using ply and printed sheets

     

    Cheers

     

     

  11. 9 minutes ago, TT-Pete said:

    I think "it depends" - how high the wall is, how stable the material being retained is, what material the wall is being built out of (large or small stone, dressed or irregular, brick etc...), and how "on the cheap" the builder was, or wasn't.  I think what looks "right" to you is probably the best guide.

    I knew someone would say"depends " and of course it does. I was hoping to find a source of basic dimensions as a starting point.

     

  12. I'm planning a stone retaining wall for a large part of my OO9 layout, I'll build the structure from card or thin ply and cover with a stone paper.

     

    However, I can't find anywhere what the dimensions should be in relation to the buttresses - how far apart and how think the buttresses should be (width and depth). I don't want "railway arches", just a wall with supporting buttresses - anyone suggest dimensions or a source of such dimensions?

     

    Thanks

     

     

  13. 6 minutes ago, halsey said:

     

    Manually

    You might want to think about alternatives - a single frog juicer can cost around £30; I operate 11 turnouts on my layout using servos and microswitches for less than the cost of one juicer.  £330 for my layout would be WAY beyond the realms of possibility, especially if SWMBO found out ;)

     

  14. 19 minutes ago, halsey said:

    I think I have decided to try a "frog juicer" to see if that will solve the problem

    Its a solution which has worked for some - bit pricey though.  How are you activating the turnout?

     

     

  15. 46 minutes ago, halsey said:

    Just a thought might I be having issues in part due to my turnout choice I am using the "irregular"  sleeper turnouts not the mainline sleeper type - they are shorter which was why I chose them but do they have a smaller blade contact surface is the blade/spring itself any better/worse

     

    All of my questions are more focussed on my potential rebuild to 100% 009 not so much my current mini 009 element on my OO layout which was built to "trial" 009 issues such as this 

    All mine are the same, not a problem

    • Thanks 1
  16. 11 minutes ago, halsey said:

     

    Sorry to bang on about this but from your experience will/does a double fairlie improve running over std turnouts 

    The Double Fairlie runs fine as it is, as does my Baldwin and a Roco shunter. None of them require any modifications to the standard Peco 009 points. I had done mods such as cutting the blade rails as recommended elsewhere and it was a disaster. I bought all new points and all the running issues went away. Again as mentioned elsewhere 009 trackwork really needs to be laid to a very fine standard, slightest kinks/bumps etc will cause poor running; its well worth the effort to get it spot on.

     

    You should arrange for the frog to be polarised and switched independently of the blade/stock rail contact which is unreliable. How you achieve this depends on how you actually move the blades - I am using servos and there are two microswitches on the MERG servo bracket, id you are using the Peco point motor add the switch that Peco makes to the motor. Or you can use a slide switch to operate the blades via 'wire-in-tube' and the slide switch operates the polarity.

     

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  17. 4 minutes ago, halsey said:

     

    They just (sometimes) stop - only needs the minutest nudge and all is good again

    That happened with mine at first, sent it back to TMC and they tested and adjusted it. Now it runs fine, the problem is caused by the pickups actually losing contact with all the wheels on one side, they adjusted the pickups. A stay alive would probably help but there is no room for one.

     

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  18. 36 minutes ago, halsey said:

    I have copied this from one of my other topics simply because it didn't get any replies 🙃

     

    Simple intro - I bought a DF and it literally didn't run so I sent it back..................but due to run of failures with miscellaneous new RTR locos so decided to "stop" for a while.............

     

    However I did/do really want an 009 Double Fairlie so I am tempted to enter the lottery once more...............

     

    QUESTION

     

    From actual experience please which retailers genuinely test prior to sending out?

     

    The Double Fairlie looks like an easy DIY DCC fit (there is a trap-door?) so I am going to do it myself - I will forego buying a weathered version so again it won't have been "played with" post factory.

     

    Comments?

     

    Also if you own one does the Double Fairlie truly ease 009 (turnout) pickup issues with its double bogie pickups 

     

    Thanks guys............

     

    Mine ran perfectly out of the box and I bought it factory sound fitted. No pick-up issues at all on Peco Y turnouts but they are live frog and polarity switched.

     

    To be honest I've not heard any problems with these locos at allo.

     

  19. 11 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

    I don't seem to have a drawing for this model either on computer or paper, it was built a long time ago when David was a teenager. There is a GA drawing in Jim Russell's book on GW locos, the frames may have been cut from a tracing of this, wheels are Romford but I don't think there were any other bought parts in it. The model is in Jersey now so I can't get at it very easily.

    OK, thanks for the reply

     

  20. 2 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

    Above the frames the Hornby model is remarkably accurate, this is one rebuilt with the correct running gear, including the joy valve motion.

    P1221474.JPG.8474e65850fe15311b4fff8c1d7d6ead.JPG

    P1221475.JPG.f8edd899043833a6362fbc5c8a52c006.JPG

    101 doesn't appear to have ever carried any GWR insignia.

    Model by David Edge

    Nice, I'd be very interested if you have documentation, parts list etc of the chassis conversion

     

     

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