rynd2it

I looked at those but thought the baseplate was a bit large for some of my stock. Do you have a link to the thread you mentioned? Thanks

Yes, 122 is the way to get the option to get to the higher Functions. Your problem is probably similar to mine with the sound on/off option, but it'll take some investigating. As a programmer of many years - lesson one is only change one thing at a time. If you look at all the functions that the operators commonly use then it should be possible to set up sequences that are likely and try them. I'll be doing some of that soon and will probably go nuts trying

Returning to this after starting a new 009 layout - how do you get delayed uncoupling with the Greenwich ? Thanks

The Power cab has probably been re-programmed to provide different short cuts to various functions. The principal one is setting the 'option' button to give access to the higher numbered Function keys. I'm still investigating much of this as I discovered that turning the sound off/on set the speed to zero and that is definitely counter-intuitive and inconvenient

Setting it to 0 resets it to factory default and then automatically sets itself to Cab=2, but you should know that

Thanks Paul, I 'll start again and I should probably reset the Power cab by setting it to cab 0 first. I knew it could be that difficult

I am new to using DCC and especially sound and have just acquired a Bachmann Baldwin with the factory sound fitted. Well pleased with the model but I'm running into some challenges in programming the NCE Power Cab to control the loco and specifically the sound. The NCE has pre-programmed buttons for the whistle, horn and some other functions but it seems that the whistle button is set to provide function F10 - but this function is for sound on/off on the Bachmann chip. So pressing it turns the sound on and seems to try to make the whistle sound. I can program the options button to make F10 and other functions appear on the NCE screen and select the desired one by simply pressing the number (say 6 which translates then to F16) However, doing this gave some strange results, the loco had the background steam sound but would not move until I pressed another function (forgot which) then it would not stop despite pressing the emergency stop. Clearly I'm getting some conflicts between the Cab and the chip but I'm really struggling to work out which is the right way to control this loco and chip. What am I missing or doing wrong?

Food for thought, thank you all. In particular, the idea of having both the point blades and frog switched appeals to me as it's a lot less work and does not risk damaging the points and ruining the running capabilities. I think I'm going to give this a go especially as I have replaced all the rolling stock wheels with more modern finer flanges etc. I will report back when I have done the tests - just waiting for the points to arrive.

OK, to settle this. The diagram below is how to wire a Peco Electrofrog point especially for DCC. Note Peco says cut the jumpers however, on the 009 points, there are no jumpers so the rails have to be cut. The layout is wired for DCC but it can run DC instead if I choose I will agree that using a switch to power the blade rails in line with the frog could work however that runs the risk of a short if a wheel on the stock rail should accidentally touch the adjacent open blade rail - both blade rails having the same polarity. Using the method below eliminates this risk.

I'm not going to argue this, it's well documented elsewhere.

Because if you connect the blades rails to the adjacent stock rail you'll get a dead short. The frog has to be isolated from the blade rails. Peco relies on blade to stock rail to power the frog, not reliable.

There are no fishplates as such. The blade rail is made with a small extension pointing down and that slots into a small plate. The end of the frog rail is also mounted that way. I'll see if I can get a photo of the joint

The problem I had with these Y points is that you are cutting through the tiny piece next to the blade pivot and that little piece can easily break off leaving a massive gap to be filled with something. The regular point has an extra sleeper to anchor the rail and wasn't an issue. I'm acquiring a jeweller saw so we'll see how it goes. Thanks

When you say "fine blade" are you referring to the number of teeth per inch or another dimension? Thanks

Thanks, I had looked at that option and I think it is the best. The original attempts were done with the points already laid which left the Dremel as the only way.

My 009 layout has a couple of dodgy (read botched) SL-E497 Y points and I cannot get a couple of locos to traverse them reliably so I am left with the need to replace them. Not a big issue but as I have some very small 0-4-0 locos I need the live frog and it needs to be switched. I had solved this on the larger points by cutting the rails just behind the frog and then bonding the point blades to the adjacent stock rails. However, trying to do this with the shorter Y point damaged the piece between the blade and the frog. The problems seem to arise from two things, a) the cutting disc was to large a diameter and b) the heat generated melted the sleepers a bit and messed up the alignment. So, having ordered my replacements, how would you guys recommend making the necessary cuts? Is there a much smaller diameter Dremel cutting wheel available? Or....?

Thanks

Hi, Which sound chip is fitted to this loco?

Thank you - I was looking for that bit of info, now all that's stopping me is my wallet

Thanks Iain

Hello Iain, My chips have arrived and I'm looking at the loco. I'm thinking to mount the chip on the chassis immediately on to of the drive pinion. The headlight is actually transparent so I can mount the front LED on the chassis, and there seems to be room for the rear LED on the back of the motor as well. This would mean that the body would be easily removeable with all wiring on the chassis. As I said, I new to this so would appreciate your input on this plan Thanks David

Yes it is correct but many UK retailers are charging VAT and then adding the CN22 customs form so I end up paying VAT twice, plus customs duties. Its a real mess at the moment and don't get me started on eBays Global Shipping Program, a real rip-off

Well, after a long search, I went back the Coastal (they were out of stock yesterday) and lo & behold, back in stock, sensible price (VAT free) and very sensible postage - ordered two, sorted. Thanks all

That's very helpful, thank you

Stuff in France is usually more expensive than the UK, its not just on modelling, clothes are really expensive as well. Just comparing the same item on Amazon UK to Amazon.fr shows up some outrageous over charging. I will start on the German ones soon Thanks for all the help with this