Jump to content
 

hegedusmj

Members
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Virginia, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

114 profile views

hegedusmj's Achievements

0

Reputation

  1. Does anyone out there have an knowledge of DCLF (Digital Continuous Liquid Forming)? I just received a crowdfunding solicitation for a resin based 3d printer called Rocket1 which claims pretty remarkable performance such as Z resolution .001mm, XY resolution 0.035mm and 380 mm/hr vertical production using DCLF. It claims to do so via a new resin formulation. It may come from an organization called Hitry. As with many such emails, this is a bit fuzzy. Coming from a school which says if something sounds too good to be true then it probably isn't all that good. Has anyone heard of this process or company enough to comment on them?
  2. On the next round I reduced the retraction speed from 2mm to 1mm/sec as suggested by Quarryscapes and continued to hollow walls and punch about 20 drain holes. The results were just terrific. One of the replies suggested that orienting the model base at 45o to the build plate. I had tried that just before starting this thread and had perhaps the worst result in terms of tearing and planes being printed as warped surfaces. Conceptually it makes too much sense not to keep using it though. On this last iteration prying the model from the build plate was VERY difficult. Thanks to all for the help.
  3. I hollowed the walls. That didn't resolve the problem. I still got the tearing effect. I even sliced the model open to make sure that the hollowing was performed. The walls had enough hollowing and hole punching that there was a solid matrix within the walls but no liquid resin. I'll try Quarryscapes pointer next. In the meantime I thought trying another building might give a different perspective. I picked every modeler's favorite, at least in the US, the outhouse. It looks like the privy roof printed OK even though it is several mm thick It is only about 8mm square overall though.
  4. I am a newby to 3d printing. I have had a number of prints come out with a 'tear' as shown in the attached. This is the base of a stone building without a roof. The printer is an Anycubic Photon Mono X using Anycubic's slicing software and their plant based resin. The example in the photo was printed in the orientation shown, upside down of course. I have had similar results tilting the object with a supporting structure provided by the software although none as bad as this. I hesitate to start manipulating the many variables available because each iteration takes 3-4 hours print time. I question whether the wall thickness is causing me difficulties (5 mm throughout and up to 12 mm at the chimney closest to the lens, but I'm just flailing around. Any thoughts out there?
  5. Being a newby on this forum, I didn't want to do a hijack on this excellent thread. It was a main reason why I first got started into Silhouette. If no one comes along who has used the Cameo 4, I will probably go to that thread. Mike
  6. The Sep 2020 (US) Model Railroader magazine has an article on use of the Silhouette Cameo automated cutter. I have used both a Silhouette and a Cricut machine quite satifactorily with Strathmore cardstock. The shortcoming of each is in cutting thicker/denser material such as styrene. I enjoy designing models and cutting them without the tedious process of cutting numerous window openings, etc. The article mentions that Silhouette has come out with a new Cameo 4 that is capable of cutting heavier styrene because it can exert a higher pressure on the cutting blade. Before I invest in yet another cutting machine, has anyone out there had first hand experience with using this new Silhouette Cameo 4? Mike
×
×
  • Create New...