AlanRM

Thanks again Kris – but can anyone confirm the long term viability of Woodland Scenics Realistic Water and Woodland Scenics Water Effect in natural sunlight? I’d like to use both Thanks!

Many thanks, Kris, and much appreciated. For those who have not seen the video, it's here (with the warnings of UV discolouration starting at 8 min 29 sec). This video was apparently made in 2016. BTW, the pools produced using this video are awesome - stunning colour and real "depth". And all from some toilet roll, white glue and a few layers of high gloss varnish. I skipped the additional coat of white glue over the varnish (12 mins in) and just kept going with the varnish. 4-5 coats are perfect.

Hi all - apologies if this has been aired before (but even if it has, things might have moved on). I am constructing a waterfall and need a product which will enable me to model the cascading water but won't fade with UV/ age. The wonderful marklinofsweden flagged this issue in a waterfall tutorial and advised viewers to check the latest products/ experiences in the forums. He indicated that some products could turn brown within a few months. All thoughts welcome! Cheers, and thanks in anticipation :-)

Thanks - working in HO scale on this one to match Preiser figures (although would probably work in OO). I stumbled on the artists’ pastel fixative thanks to OH. It works remarkably well and really does highlight the surface of the wood (bringing it to life), even from a distance. Probably helps seal the surface and repel dust, too. Haven't tried brollies yet! PS - haven't had so much success with balsa on this sort of thing as it can rip/tear. Mahogany is so crisp

Working on it! (cough cough...)

OK since no one is asking, and I am not by a PC tomorrow in case someone does, here goes: Wood - 1/32nd (0.8mm) Mahogany sheet from an aero model shop or https://www.slecuk.com/hardwoods/mahogany (one sheet makes dozens of benches – leftovers useful elsewhere) Tips: - Bench end frames are made from 2mm strips (draw a simple side-on diagram on a sheet of paper and use as a template – see attached with mahogany frame awaiting trimming) - Each end frame is 10mm from ground to top; 5mm from ground to the top of the bench rest crossbeam - Construct end frames from long (2-3 inch) 2mm strips then trim afterwards. Longer strips are much more easily aligned/held if you have 10 thumbs (as I do) - Table tops are 25mm x 15mm; each bench seat is 25mm x 4mm - Use superglue throughout (I applied tiny drops with a glass head modelling pin) - (Optional) When complete, spray with artists’ pastel fixative (I used Frisk Graphic Art Materials because Other Half had some spare). This dries in minutes, darkens the wood, brings out the grain brilliantly and makes any superglue residue completely disappear - Drink beer

Working on the parasols - currently adorning my tequila :-)

Hi all. I have just constructed a few beer garden benches from scrap modelling mahogany sheet - I'm sure this must have been covered before, but shout if I can suggest dimensions, etc. Also uses pastel fixative which enhances the wood grain and disguises any superglue stains :-)

That's great - thanks! Personal experience beats everything. More shortly when I have the sample through the post. Cheers, Alan

Hi all and an update. I have also phoned a very friendly filter materials specialist who is popping a free sample of their "blue/white medium" in the post today. It certainly looks the equivalent of the US product, so fingers crossed. I'll report back on suitability when it arrives in case others are planning the same, but meantime if anyone has any other thoughts that would be very welcome. I suspect various products would fit the bill but I'd like to stick as close as possible to the recommended formula :-)

Hi guys (and gals!). I would like to make 1-200 pine trees and have settled on this technique using layers of "furnace filters": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wdSKMOV8dY ...See 2mins 50secs in, but to save everyone time, the material is described in this US video as blue fibre filters, available also in rolls. I think this is the stuff here (in half inch form - it's for OO/HO): https://www.aafintl.com/pt-br/commercial/browse-products/commercial/media-pads-and-rolls/polyklean-blue-rolls Clearly we have similar filters in the UK, perhaps under a different name or application. Many Google searches have led to heating and ventilation filters, fish pond filters, etc., but the choice is overwhelming. Does anyone have any ideas? Apologies if this has been covered before - I have seen many posts re tree fibres - but again, the choice is vast. It would be good just to find the UK equivalent (or even close) of the above if possible. Thanks in anticipation!

Thanks and yes, got this, thanks - have been experimenting!

This did strike me too as I was shaping it with the convex Stanley Surform shaver. It's spooky. I used 10mm EP layers which build nicely towards a village, but thinner might work very well for seashores Meantime, I'm off to experiment with plaster/ Sculptamold and a wallpaper scraper! Other Half has threatened to lock me in

Many thanks, Harold, and much appreciated. I had been wary of using PVA with EP after reports of a reluctance for it to dry in the inner parts, away from air (I have used many 2ft square panels). I have bonded several scraps of spare EP (and Surformed them similar to the pic) and will follow your excellent advice in experimenting. Using a wallpaper scraper to reach underneath the ledges is also an good idea. I'll try and report back :-)

Afternoon all. I have created gentle contours on a very rigid (1 inch thick) ply board using extruded polystyrene (see pic), and plan to top this with Sculptamold (as per many reccs here and Dave Frary’s book). The layers are bonded with an extensive grid of beads of a “Hard as Nails” equivalent (again recc by Dave Frary), applied using a caulking gun mechanism. Test pieces have shown this to be highly effective, but it leaves a very slight gap between the layers where there is no beading. I haven’t used EP before so would like to ask: - Should I sand the surface prior to covering (I would rather not, as it’s more work and logic says it might even provide more grip for the Scultamold)? - Over time, will the fine/ “feathered” edges (some of which have a tiny air gap where there is no beading) try to flex/ move/ curl/ rise etc. beneath any covering? - Will Sculptamold help reinforce these edges – and, if so, how thick would I need to go? All thoughts welcome and thanks in anticipation!