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Talbotjohn

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  1. Hi Paul Apologies for misspelling your surname. I realised it was wrong but thought I had corrected it before submitting my reply..... Hi Jim, It is very kind of you to offer to sell me parts if you get the loco sorted to your satisfaction. I am in no hurry. Even having some pre-cut plastic sheet parts is a massive step forward and saves a lot of time and energy. It won't be a lot different to building 009 diesels from flat etched brass parts and I'm quite happy to build my own chassis. Mike Thomas' article suggests where some of the detailing parts he used on his model, in
  2. Hi Jim Just found this thread via RM Web alerts on my iPhone. That really is a super little loco - you should be very pleased with yourself in producing that model. If you get it to a marketable form I for one would be interested in buying a kit/3D print body off you. The relatively high price and rarity of the Bemo model are good incentives for a reasonable financial return for your efforts, if you were so inclined. I have N drive 1015 size motor on a High Level gearbox driving 12mm diameter wheels on a 2mm axle that would be suitable as the basis for a chassis. I was thinking of us
  3. Hi Coline 33 Been there and done that with my old Minitrains Baldwin. Same symptoms. I found that the acetal? gear on the leading axle had split along its length down in the gap between the teeth. This causes the gear to slip under power and the quartering to go out of sync and so jam up the motion. You need to remove the keeper plate to confirm this. I tried to fix it with a small drop of superglue carefully applied between gear and axle but it didn't work. I was fortunate to get a replacement set of wheels axles gears and motion through the 009 Society that solved the problem for
  4. Hi, Apologies if you already know but one of the big challenges I faced when new to Bemo was how to get the loco body off the chassis. I have actually removed the body from a Bemo Ge4/4II as I bought one that had been switched to live overhead pickup and I needed to switch it back. To remove the body turn it upside down on a padded surface so as not to damage the pantographs and electrical insulators etc on the roof! I used the loco box with some tissue inside. Gently pull out the couplings from each end. The body is held in place by four lugs on the chassis that
  5. Hi. Thanks for your helpful comments. With hindsight I did think that pasting lining paper on the reverse might have helped but I suspect that would be best done at the same time - and it would have been a bit tricky to manage two glued surfaces at the same time. If I were doing it again I would explore some of the other adhesives mentioned by Jim above and add some form of bracing to the foam board from the outset. i would also ask someone to help me lay the back scene onto the foam board rather than try to do it myself again!
  6. I offer the following as a cautionary tale.... I wanted to create a lightweight back scene I could use when exhibiting my HOm RhB layout "Rosental". Having thought about it long and hard I purchased a Faller “Oberstdorf “ back scene that looks the business and some A1 sheets of white 5mm Foam board. I had to join an extra strip of foam board down the side of each piece as the Faller sections are slightly longer than the A1 foam board sheets. So far so good. I was planning to stick the back scenes to the foam board using Prit Stik but then found we had some Solvite wall paper paste an
  7. Hi Martin, Thanks for this. There are some really useful items on this site.
  8. HI Nick Pleased to see you are making good progress. That Control Panel really looks the business. It's amazing how much coloured electrical wire a relatively small layout consumes! Bit sad that you have to buy more on line rather than from your local model shop though. It is really important to get that first circuit of track wired up so you can see something run right round the layout as a sort of reward for all your effort so far. It boosts your morale no end ready to continue the work.....I look forward to coming back to Wales to see it when you exhibit it. Do you have a target
  9. Hi Nick Going to 7 tracks on the fiddle yard is a good move. Sometimes you need to get your fingers and thumb down between the lines of stock in the fiddle yard to deal with say a minor derailment etc. Nothing worse than knocking adjacent stock off the the rails by accident because there wasn't enough space to work in. One thing I learnt from my other hobby building radio control off shore i.c. power boats is that things need to be both robust and accessible ( in the event something should break or fail) and this applies to exhibition layouts too. Hi Paul, Thanks for the explana
  10. On the subject of test locos I have just got myself a Bemo HOm RhB Krokodil. I have noticed that the long wheelbase six wheel drive units are more sensitive to drag(?) when passing through turnouts so unlike the Bo Bo electrics you really have to drive it to maintain a constant speed across the layout. Electrical pickup of course is not a problem and watching the rods in motion is rather fascinating.....
  11. You are clearly making very good progress. All this and you still find time to help organise a model railway show in Penarth! I am impressed. As an aside I recently asked one of my Swiss Railway Society friends what a RhB loco horn sounded like - he smiled and told me that hey have an air operated high pitched whistle......
  12. Hi According to the Bemo catalogue I got via Winco last year the part number for the HOm wheelset for the Crocodile is 5255 000. However, Bemo catalogue numbers have changed in the past so if ordering from new, explain what you want in words to the supplier as well. As I said in an earlier post this year Contikits (used model dealer in UK) had a box of Bemo spares at the Swiss Railways Society AGM in Derby earlier this year so it might be worth contacting them to see if they have this part. However I'm not sure how to and how much work is involved in exchanging the wheelsets. My ex
  13. Hi I used 2" lengths of 20mm x 20mm aluminium angle to carry the tracks across to and from the turntables of the fiddle yards. It is a lot more robust than normal rail ends and easier to align for smooth passage. I use simple brass folded clips to both secure the sides and make the electrical contact across the gap. Several of my friends use a similar system on their P4 layouts. The aluminium angle is set to gauge and stuck with Evo Stik to a square of 5mm thick perspex. I sandwich in a piece of 60 thou plasticard under the aluminium strip to allow for flange depth. When the Evo St
  14. I would agree with Bernard's recommendation. However the smallest wheels Gibson normally sells are 10mm diameter, intended for lowmac vehicles in 4mm scale. I bought some used Lilliput Baden bogie coaches and found that one of them had uninsulated wheels. As the prototype photos showed spoked wheels I bought some Gibson 10mm OO/EM spoked wheels and used those instead. I recall having to shorten the axle pin points slightly to fit but this didn't affect the running. Gibson wheels come with 26mm long axles.
  15. Wow! Impressive wood work and scope for spectacular scenery. Puts my efforts into the Flat Earth Club - my excuse is that my layout "Rosental" is on the valley floor of course! Is yours for private consumption or are you planning to exhibit it? I'd go along with the recommendation to varnish the ply to seal and stabilise it. I have found that unvarnished birch ply stored in my garage seems to get covered in tiny black mould spots despite the garage being part of the house and the CH boiler location. Don't forget to leave enough ply beyond the trackwork to fix the catenary posts in p
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