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  1. Hi Paul Apologies for misspelling your surname. I realised it was wrong but thought I had corrected it before submitting my reply..... Hi Jim, It is very kind of you to offer to sell me parts if you get the loco sorted to your satisfaction. I am in no hurry. Even having some pre-cut plastic sheet parts is a massive step forward and saves a lot of time and energy. It won't be a lot different to building 009 diesels from flat etched brass parts and I'm quite happy to build my own chassis. Mike Thomas' article suggests where some of the detailing parts he used on his model, including decals, could be obtained.
  2. Hi Jim Just found this thread via RM Web alerts on my iPhone. That really is a super little loco - you should be very pleased with yourself in producing that model. If you get it to a marketable form I for one would be interested in buying a kit/3D print body off you. The relatively high price and rarity of the Bemo model are good incentives for a reasonable financial return for your efforts, if you were so inclined. I have N drive 1015 size motor on a High Level gearbox driving 12mm diameter wheels on a 2mm axle that would be suitable as the basis for a chassis. I was thinking of using it for a Ruston 48DS in P4 until Hornby brought a RTR model! I am sure you are aware that Mike Thomas has made a HOm model of RhB 4 wheel diesel hydraulic tractor Tm2/2 number 93. It was described in detail in Continental Modeller for August 2010, p500-503. He acknowledges help from Paul Steadman. His model is a very extensive rework (!) of a Knightwing diesel on a Halling motor bogie. Regards John.
  3. Hi Coline 33 Been there and done that with my old Minitrains Baldwin. Same symptoms. I found that the acetal? gear on the leading axle had split along its length down in the gap between the teeth. This causes the gear to slip under power and the quartering to go out of sync and so jam up the motion. You need to remove the keeper plate to confirm this. I tried to fix it with a small drop of superglue carefully applied between gear and axle but it didn't work. I was fortunate to get a replacement set of wheels axles gears and motion through the 009 Society that solved the problem for me. It is a bit fiddly to fit the wheels and motion as you need to insert the piston rods in the cylinders, drop the axles in place whilst ensuring the pick up wipers go behind the wheels! You can do it if you are determined. There were rumours that a small supplier could supply brass replacement gears but these would require pulling wheels off axles, etc.I tried to follow up on this source but the trail ran dry...... Hope this helps you understand the issue but sadly doesn't offer you a way forward.
  4. Hi, Apologies if you already know but one of the big challenges I faced when new to Bemo was how to get the loco body off the chassis. I have actually removed the body from a Bemo Ge4/4II as I bought one that had been switched to live overhead pickup and I needed to switch it back. To remove the body turn it upside down on a padded surface so as not to damage the pantographs and electrical insulators etc on the roof! I used the loco box with some tissue inside. Gently pull out the couplings from each end. The body is held in place by four lugs on the chassis that fit into slots on an extension of the 4 rectangular side window glazing pieces. Working on the upturned loco, carefully prize the glazing extension away from the chassis just enough to slide a piece of thin (10 thou) plasticard down between the lug on the chassis casting and the glazing. Repeat until done for all four lugs. You may need to unclip the central grey underside unit too. (Make a note of which way round it fits before doing this). The chassis should now lift out or slip out if the body is carefully turned right way up. Hope this helps.
  5. Hi. Thanks for your helpful comments. With hindsight I did think that pasting lining paper on the reverse might have helped but I suspect that would be best done at the same time - and it would have been a bit tricky to manage two glued surfaces at the same time. If I were doing it again I would explore some of the other adhesives mentioned by Jim above and add some form of bracing to the foam board from the outset. i would also ask someone to help me lay the back scene onto the foam board rather than try to do it myself again!
  6. I offer the following as a cautionary tale.... I wanted to create a lightweight back scene I could use when exhibiting my HOm RhB layout "Rosental". Having thought about it long and hard I purchased a Faller “Oberstdorf “ back scene that looks the business and some A1 sheets of white 5mm Foam board. I had to join an extra strip of foam board down the side of each piece as the Faller sections are slightly longer than the A1 foam board sheets. So far so good. I was planning to stick the back scenes to the foam board using Prit Stik but then found we had some Solvite wall paper paste and decided to use that as I thought being able to slide it about a bit initially would help position the backscene on the foam board. This is where things started to go Wrong. When pasted with Solvite the Faller back scene sections increased in length by about an inch or so and were too long to fit my accurately cut foam board sections! Anyway, I centralised them thinking I would cut off the excess and jiggle the joints afterwards. Worse still I didn't weight them down to dry and then found that the height of the back scenes had shrunk back during drying and induced a nice concave shape into my foam board sections! (see photo) - Argh! (and various other expletives I would rather not type here...). I tried weighting them flat and even standing on the reverse side but to no avail. (I just put a lot of small creases in the foam board). I thought about buying a replacement.... In the end I decide to use 12mm x 32mm pine wood (doorstop) strips on the back to pull out the curvature. It is working and the pieces are still quite light to handle which was one of the initial considerations. (see photos). My wife saw them in the garage and said they looked good without prompting so that is good enough for me... I am planning to put another strip of wood along the white section on the front of each as a means of attaching the back scene to the layout. Learning points: 1. Like wall paper, most paper backscenes may stretch and perhaps shrink back when pasted with wall paper paste or diluted PVA glue. (obvious really to anyone who has put up wallpaper at home !) 2. Unsupported 5mm foam board isn't rigid enough to resist bending forces of shrinking thick papers.
  7. Hi Martin, Thanks for this. There are some really useful items on this site.
  8. HI Nick Pleased to see you are making good progress. That Control Panel really looks the business. It's amazing how much coloured electrical wire a relatively small layout consumes! Bit sad that you have to buy more on line rather than from your local model shop though. It is really important to get that first circuit of track wired up so you can see something run right round the layout as a sort of reward for all your effort so far. It boosts your morale no end ready to continue the work.....I look forward to coming back to Wales to see it when you exhibit it. Do you have a target completion date in mind? Cheers John.
  9. Hi Nick Going to 7 tracks on the fiddle yard is a good move. Sometimes you need to get your fingers and thumb down between the lines of stock in the fiddle yard to deal with say a minor derailment etc. Nothing worse than knocking adjacent stock off the the rails by accident because there wasn't enough space to work in. One thing I learnt from my other hobby building radio control off shore i.c. power boats is that things need to be both robust and accessible ( in the event something should break or fail) and this applies to exhibition layouts too. Hi Paul, Thanks for the explanation why RhB locos have high pitched whistles and now high pitched horns. I would never have realised it was to do with avoiding avalanches. That said I think some of the early Southern Railway electric multiple units had air operated whistles too. I suspect that was because in those days the railway workers were used to listening for steam loco whistles.
  10. On the subject of test locos I have just got myself a Bemo HOm RhB Krokodil. I have noticed that the long wheelbase six wheel drive units are more sensitive to drag(?) when passing through turnouts so unlike the Bo Bo electrics you really have to drive it to maintain a constant speed across the layout. Electrical pickup of course is not a problem and watching the rods in motion is rather fascinating.....
  11. You are clearly making very good progress. All this and you still find time to help organise a model railway show in Penarth! I am impressed. As an aside I recently asked one of my Swiss Railway Society friends what a RhB loco horn sounded like - he smiled and told me that hey have an air operated high pitched whistle......
  12. Hi According to the Bemo catalogue I got via Winco last year the part number for the HOm wheelset for the Crocodile is 5255 000. However, Bemo catalogue numbers have changed in the past so if ordering from new, explain what you want in words to the supplier as well. As I said in an earlier post this year Contikits (used model dealer in UK) had a box of Bemo spares at the Swiss Railways Society AGM in Derby earlier this year so it might be worth contacting them to see if they have this part. However I'm not sure how to and how much work is involved in exchanging the wheelsets. My experience in regauging Bemo freight and carriage stock from HOe to HOm is that the Bemo wheels are very tight on the axles. As others have already said you need to be very careful to apply even pressure to avoid wobbly wheels after you have moved them. I'm well practised in setting Alan Gibson etc British made wheels to P4 back to back but I still found the Bemo wheels a challenge, probably because they are on splined axles. Hope you get a satisfactory outcome. Best wishes John.
  13. Hi I used 2" lengths of 20mm x 20mm aluminium angle to carry the tracks across to and from the turntables of the fiddle yards. It is a lot more robust than normal rail ends and easier to align for smooth passage. I use simple brass folded clips to both secure the sides and make the electrical contact across the gap. Several of my friends use a similar system on their P4 layouts. The aluminium angle is set to gauge and stuck with Evo Stik to a square of 5mm thick perspex. I sandwich in a piece of 60 thou plasticard under the aluminium strip to allow for flange depth. When the Evo Stik has gone off I drill and tap for 8BA countersunk head bolts to hold everything securely. The inner faces have notches to accomodate the rail ends. it is packed up to align with the rail tops and secured to the ply base board with two screws that allow some fine adjustment. It is a lot of cutting filing drilling and tapping to make these units but they worked fine over two half days of pre exhibition testing and through a one day show. The only thing I had to do was squeeze one of the brass clips a bit tighter at one point to ensure electrical continuity. (yes that is a IKEA folding chair - I hadn't made the trestles when this photo was taken!) Regards, John. See photo.
  14. I would agree with Bernard's recommendation. However the smallest wheels Gibson normally sells are 10mm diameter, intended for lowmac vehicles in 4mm scale. I bought some used Lilliput Baden bogie coaches and found that one of them had uninsulated wheels. As the prototype photos showed spoked wheels I bought some Gibson 10mm OO/EM spoked wheels and used those instead. I recall having to shorten the axle pin points slightly to fit but this didn't affect the running. Gibson wheels come with 26mm long axles.
  15. Wow! Impressive wood work and scope for spectacular scenery. Puts my efforts into the Flat Earth Club - my excuse is that my layout "Rosental" is on the valley floor of course! Is yours for private consumption or are you planning to exhibit it? I'd go along with the recommendation to varnish the ply to seal and stabilise it. I have found that unvarnished birch ply stored in my garage seems to get covered in tiny black mould spots despite the garage being part of the house and the CH boiler location. Don't forget to leave enough ply beyond the trackwork to fix the catenary posts in place otherwise you will be sticking on extra bits.
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