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  1. I have been using one for exhibiting for quite some time. i found that by the end of a solid weekend the wooden seat was a bit uncomfortable However a cushion that Ikea sell fixed that. It has a pair of ties attached and has been firmly attached. I thoroughly recommend the combination. Reason for edit: Fingers possessing minds of their own.
  2. Yes,that's what Australia Post reckon. Registered the software as soon as I received the email. This is my last post on this thread. I'll use the other one if I have any thing sensible to say. TTFN Linds
  3. Geeze mate you've got a lot to answer for. I've just received confirmation that my emblaser is on its way. Please let us know how you get on with the plastic sheet. I'll see what I can find around Melbourne. Linds Edited to tame unruly tablet.
  4. I have the Jan 1970 MRC. The drawings are part of a four page article including extensive notes. If you will pm me your email address, I'll scan them and send them to you. TTFN Lindsay.
  5. The Fly in the ointment is that O in Victoria, where these ran, is 1:48. The blue and yellow was just one of several liveries. Linds
  6. Just received confirmation that my copy is on its way to Oz. Lindsay
  7. Hi Pecksniff Is anyone using CA as suggested to fix the glazing in place, or are you using Johnson's Clear? I've found the stuff to be quite good in this application. Note for builders in Oz. It's marketed here as Shine Magic. I didn't believe the claims made for it until my brother, who is a plastic kit nut, sat me down and made me watch while he treated an aircraft cockpit canopy. The effect was amazing and it sticks the glass in place as well. TTFN Linds
  8. Hi Bushie You can see the 'cusp' by looking at the frames edge on. You will see a thin trace of Brass in the middle. This 'cusp' is an artifact of the etching process. When the brass sheet is etched from both sides, to outline a part or to remove part of the interior as in the window frames, the etchant breaks through and leaves edges that are partly eroded. Take a flat jeweler's file and rub it sideways along the edge to remove the cusp. You will find that the parts in the Hurtling Haggis are of different degrees of hardness. Some will resist cusp removal like the dickens and on others the cusp just melts away. Geoff from Hollywood Foundry has an excellent set of instructions on his web site dealing with the etched brass (AKA chemical milling) process. It's a good read and written by a bloke who really has this stuff sorted. It's well worth downloading as I seem to remember you had a go at some parts yourself with this method earlier on. Hope that helps. TTFN Linds
  9. Thanks Ted. For the record, Part 87 hits the Newsie in the morning. That is allegedly the tender base plate, to be followed next week by the plastic tender body. What I would really like to know is what has Hatchette done to us this time? Wrong castings or wrong placement or whatever? Regards Linds
  10. Ok, I'll spring for it. For the benefit of those of us in the Antipodes who are some months away from this latest st*ff up, can I ask which axle springs and what's the issue this time? Staring this week, we in Oz are about to receive a run of tender parts and here I was thinking it was safe to assemble them as received. TTFN Linds
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