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JackD48

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  1. I'm about to start building a GEM Webb 2-4-2. Searching the forums, I see that various people have built this kit, and I wonder if there any things to watch out for? It's the Lytchett Manor incarnation of the kit with the etched chassis. One thing that surprised me is that the chassis doesn't fit the footplate casting - either the footplate casting or the frames need to be modified to fit! It looks like modifying the frames is the easier option; is this so? Also, are there any suggestions for a motor/gearbox combination? the instructions mention a Mashima can and a Markits box. TIA JackD
  2. The gearbox was all assembled and it was only when I came to screw the motor on that I discovered the problem - hence I'm reluctant to mess about with it. I've used an alternative motor so I'm not desperate for a solution. I'll have to order up a gearbox for the next project, hence asking about alternatives, but I expect that opening up the hole with a broach whilst still on the fret (just like opening up the bearing holes) would be much safer. Thanks JackD48
  3. I have an old Mashima 1620 round can motor which I'd like to use in a loco I'm about to start. I've usually used High Level gearboxes, but I've hit a problem: the boss round the output shaft of the motor is 6mm diameter, whereas the hole in the gearbox that it goes through is only about 5mm for High Level boxes. I could try opening out the hole, but I'm a bit reluctant to do so as I would probably screw up the precision fit of the parts. I know that Comet do gearboxes and I've got an old Branchlines one in my bits box, but I can't find any specs or diagrams of what is available. Wizard sell Comet gearboxes, but no pictures of them, let alone dimensioned drawings. I can't find anything about Branchlines boxes. Can anyone point me to anywhere where I can find specs for these other gearboxes. I'm looking for equivalents of the Roadrunner and/or Roadrunner+ boxes, but with a bigger hole. Thanks JackD48
  4. Darwinian, You may well be right. Having worked in the past with equipment panels held on with various sorts of captive fasteners, my immediate thoughts were that actual captive screws/bolts were used. Blowing up the picture and really looking at it, your description makes sense and wouldn't need any special screw. Making coach roofs removable is a fascinating subject isn't it! JackD
  5. Darwinian, I get the general arrangement; however as I see it the key here is the captive screw. Googling captive screws, these seem to be fairly specialised and cost around £1 each - and aren't on Eileen's list. That's why I was asking about a supplier of these screws or whether Penrhos had turned down part of the thread of a standard screw to make one, or used an alternative method such as a springy cup washer to get the same effect. It's a very elegant solution: I recently had to try to fix down the roof of Ratio clerestory that was significantly bowed (even after hot water treatment) and had to resort to a long screw from the underframe to the roof - luckily hidden by the lavatory compartment. This method looks a good alternative. JackD
  6. I see. Presumably there's a plasticard bar across the coach at a suitable level, ... tapped the same as the nut? Where do you get the captive nuts from or do you turn down a section of the thread to get the same effect? Jack D
  7. I'm intrigued by this. Are they commercial items or do you make them yourself? If they're commercial, where do you get them from? I've tried various ways of attaching roofs so that they're detachable, but this one seems good! JackD
  8. Mine blew up when I was running it on the 12V dc output from the controller. The top blew off and there was what I reckon was the innards of an electrolytic capacitor strewn around, with the metal can and the plastic sleeve with the spec of the capacitor about 6 inches apart. I was surprised to see that the capacitor was rated at 10V. I would have expected a higher rating, even if it was in the digital part of the circuitry - does this still run at 5V? This happened before the recall, and I contacted Rails about it and have sent it back. They said they'd replace it, but now it looks like a refund. Pity, it was a nice novelty, sure to entertain the grandkids. JohnD
  9. Thanks MissP, when I get to the boiler and smokebox it'll be reassuring that it isn't me being stupid or hamfisted! As regards the motor, I do have a 1620 and a 1015 in the motors box as well as a DS10. The 1015 looks too small for a whitemetal loco - but maybe it's just that I started out in the era where the X04 was the standard motor, and all the modern can motors look small to me. I need to have a good look at the instructions as to how the compensation bits fit together, but since they're there it's very tempting to use them. One thing - putting a gearbox onto a floating axle, means that the motor will be moving around as well. How is that controlled? Many thanks JackD
  10. Hi all, To while away the time in quarantine, I've just bought myself a SeFincast metro kit to build. It seems fairly straightforward, but there are a few decisions to make early on: First: rigid or compensated - I'm reckoning on building it rigid, unless there are any compelling reasons to compensate it (it's 00, not EM or P4). Secondly: Motor and gearbox. The instructions suggest a DS10 and Romford gears and there's a mount for this. Personally I like the High Level gearboxes, and looking on RMWeb, there was a suggestion that a Mashima 1624 and a High Level Roadrunner+ would work, driving the front coupled axle. Has anybody out there actually done this, and was it a fairly straightforward job? Finally, are there any things to watch out for in the build? Thanks JackD
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