Nickey Line

It took me a while to find a way of producing suitable footsteps. I first tried building one entirely from scrap etch, but it was incredibly fiddly and time consuming. A post from Fat Controller (thank you Brian!) pointed me in he direction of etches produced by Stenson Models, and I found these... ...whilst not specifically Grampus footsteps they would do as a basis. There's sufficient for 8 wagons on the etch. I'm currently building 4. I later found that a another etch producer (Rumney Models) does a super-detailing kit for the Parkside Grampus, which includes the footsteps along with etched door springs and under-chassis storage baskets etc. which I didn't need, but thought should be mentioned here for reference. So anyway... The fixing tab at the top of each step is in two parts, which for my purposes is unnecessary, so I removed the top part, then folded the remaining tab carefully through 180 degrees, then folded it over again, so that the tab was protruding from the middle of a triple layer of etch. This not only reduces the length to something close to prototype (close enough...) but makes the mounting point much stronger, especially after soldering it up solid. The tab can be trimmed back, otherwise it will be visible behind the headstock, in front of the solebar. I used some bits of scrap etch to make up the raised sides of the steps. Easier to deal with when over-length, I trimmed them back after soldering up. I've also put a radius on the outer, visible part of the tab, in an attempt to get a bit closer to the prototype. This is what I ended up with. Though not entirely accurate (!) I'm happy with them. On the prototype the struts were made of angle, but this is not usually noticeable from normal viewing angles. The steps were also often quite badly bent and battered anyway. There's a slot to the right hand end of the headstock where the tab fits nicely. Once super-glued in place, the steps were bent to shape. I think you can make out the shape from the final pic. A shallow 'S' bend. That's pretty much it. I have two more to build but I'm currently short of bearings. I might paint the first two up before building the next ones; either way I'll post a pic on here when I've a completed one to show.

I bow once again to my learned friends...

Scaleway only do 4mm... not 7mm, as specified in the title...

Thanks, enough said. At least I'm not losing my memory just yet.

I stand corrected... I'll admit it's quite a while since I last bought track making parts, apart from some track gauges I'm sure C&L used to stock Exactoscale though, or am I imagining it?

Looks fine to me, Izzy. I particularly like the shackles, and what you've done with the lifting rings. My shackles look clumsy in comparison...

I think the poster is looking for British prototype trackwork, Stephen. As far as I'm aware, and I could be mistaken... Exactoscale is only available through C&L anyway...

Drilling right through with a 0.5mm drill without breaking the bit is very difficult. I find it easier to do it this way. Actually, as the 1mm drill leaves a dimple in the bottom of the hole, it acts as a pilot for the smaller drill, and it's only a short way left to go. Accuracy seems to be perfectly adequate. Other opinions are available.

Will this do? The shackles are a bit overscale, but better than none at all; made up from some bits of chain and an etch from Wizard Models.

On with the build... Headstocks and solebars now fitted. The solebars needed trimming approx. 0.5mm each end. From this next pic you should be able to make out the clearance for the buffers behind the solebars. This was only necessary because I'm springing the buffers. Next job is to fit the brake gear, remembering as always to check, double check and check again that you have the push rods the right way round! Though difficult to see in this shot, I've drilled through the V hangers and brake gear to fit a brass wire cross-shaft. I'll be tackling the end footsteps next...

Hi Mookie, A is a mounting block for Hornby/Bachmann couplings, B is part of Parkside's own coupling, and C are dropside door springs, not required for this kit. Hope this helps. Oops beaten to it!

Normally I'd be out on my bike on a Tuesday but as I've picked up a sore throat from somewhere there's more time for modelling... First job today is to tidy up the headstocks and fit the buffers... The Dapol body requires a little modification. There are a couple of clips to which the underframe would normally attach. These can be removed. Additionally, some of the door springs are situated well inboard, and would interfere with the fitting of the solebars, so they can be removed and reattached (with a little modification) to the solebars themselves. Body pre-modification... ...and after. I hope you can see that several door springs have been left intact, as these ones are situated further out, and therefore don't interfere with mounting the solebars. The door springs are quite thick, about a mm, so I thinned them down on the back so that they fit neatly between the flanges of the solebars. From this you should be able to spot that I've filed down the backs of the solebars at each end for several mm. This is to clear the shanks of the buffers, which would otherwise require cutting down. Filing down the solebars is the better option, as they're quite thick, and shortening the shanks on the buffers doesn't leave much metal between the end of the shank and the main bore. I've also removed one of the smaller 'V' hangers (not required) and fitted bearings. Might fit headstocks and solebars this evening, or maybe tomorrow...

There's a good range of coach buffers, but by no means comprehensive. Much greater range of wagon buffers. Loco lamps etc. are nice too, a much better size than some available.

Maybe not, but it keeps petrol in MY car... It's up to me how I spend MY money.. and these were by no means the only things I bought from him. How many users on this site buy anything at all from LMS??? And besides, I quite enjoy the challenge.

As a number of people (well, one or two..) have shown interest in this project, I thought I'd start a workbench topic to cover it, and possibly further 4mm stuff. So, the concept was (and I find that although arrived at independently, I was by no means the first) to use the Dapol unpainted Grampus body (very cheap) on the Parkside PA10 chassis kit, plus replacement buffers from Lanarkshire Models, and steps fettled up from an etch for HEA/MEA/MFA wagons from Stenson Models. I later discovered that Rumney Models do an etch for detailing the Parkside kit which includes the steps, but at £3.50 per wagon I felt that this was going a bit too far. The etch from Stenson Models has enough steps for 8 wagons at the same price... So here's most of the bits before starting... First job is to prepare the headstocks to take the replacement buffers. The existing mouldings are carefully drilled out 1mm. Care needs to be taken to ensure the holes are central top to bottom, and that the headstock is not distorted, as it's quite thin at the ends. The buffer bases then need to be filed off, and the guide holes drilled out to 2mm to take the new buffers. Again, extreme care needs to b taken! The new buffers are not attached in this view, just posed. I shall be springing the buffers, so the next job is to saw off the heads... ...and drill CAREFULLY 1mm to a depth of 6mm, trying to keep central. Finally drill through the last bit 0.5mm, again very carefully. You should end up with something like this... Three more to do and that will be enough for now. The buffers are available pre-drilled, but at a price, so being a cheap-skate I prefer to do it myself!

You're welcome. Nobody's infallible! Freudian slip? A piece of trackwork I've not come across before... Some marvellous photos there.

Oops-a-daisy! Some mistake, surely!

Probably a bit late for this wagon, but to deal with sloppy buffer heads I find it easiest to just stretch the springs slightly... You're right about the bump stops. I'd built a few other Slater's kits before deciding they weren't good enough and replaced them with tiny bits of plasticard strip on later builds. Decidedly fiddly... must think of an easier way.

As suggested by Brian W (Fat Controller), I had a look at etches available from Stenson Models, and found the etch for HEA/MEA/MFA wagon steps to be a good basis. Had to bend them differently and add the raised border to the step with scrap etch, but I think it looks ok... and much easier than building entirely from scratch.

Hi Steve, van looks good to me, a typically scruffy and beaten up Viva van; don't forget your eye doesn't see the same as the camera! As a certain amount of interest has been shown in my attempt at Grampus wagons I think I'll start a topic to cover the next one, as having now almost completed the first I've got a better idea of how to make a 'proper' job of it... The buffer heads and coupling hook are only posed for the pic. Painting next.

My brother and I attended CMRA on Saturday and also found to to be of a very good standard. I particularly enjoyed the larger O gauge layouts, but also saw plenty to enjoy elsewhere. Whilst watching Modbury, another viewer was asking the builder how he'd got on building the kits for the rolling stock, and whether he'd compensated the wagons. Ian Smith (I believe it was he) started explaining how most of the stock was built from Colin Waite etches; the viewer interrupted him - "I know - I am Colin Waite"! Turned out Ian hadn't compensated the wagons as he found it too fiddly... fascinating little layout though.

Hi Steve, the buffers are from Lanarkshire Model Supplies (LMS!). I bought complete buffers, removed the heads and drilled them out. I'm aiming to spring the buffers. They're available pre-drilled but considerably more expensive... and anyway I like a challenge! They stock some very useful bits and bobs. Having looked through many photos on Paul Bartlett's website, I've yet to find an example without footsteps. Thanks Brian, it looks like the HEA/MEA/MFA steps should make a suitable substitute. Far easier than making one's own. That's a challenge too far I think... Edited for incorrect link.