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gr.king

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  1. I'll be interested to see if you can make decent ends for the clerestory roof, with smooth, even curvature across their width as well as along their length, using only the strip of plasticard supplied in the kit. I couldn't, so you're one-up on me if you succeed.
  2. Brassmasters 6-spoke handwheel for waterscoop control serving temporarily in those pictures by the way, although I know it to be about 30% too large in diameter, and too plain in style. I should be getting something better in due course, and not an incorrect 8-spoke cast brass item..... Axleboxes are obviously still to be acquired or produced, probably the latter.
  3. Ah, at last, that's better! Pictures are of more use than words:
  4. Cast? Purely for single-piece strength, and added weight if in heavy metal? Or are you now making preparations for building a fleet of locos with similar cab fittings?
  5. Very good to see an item from the Great Humiliation Challenge turned into a decent working model steam wagon. As well as adding the tarpaulin, might it be worth undertaking the onerous task of painting the top of the bright metal "way feeler" grey?
  6. Stepped front edge to superheater header cover indeed, that's a surprise! V-front cab in resin, but I can't find the original, better quality images..... Try the attached file instead. v.doc
  7. Excellent! Is that step in the leading edge of the top access plate for the superheater header a genuine feature of the real thing?
  8. I've seen some very satisfactory 3D printed rolling stock items created by careful, knowledgeable individuals. mostly or wholly on machines that polymerize resin "point by point" rather than those that extrude filaments, some genuinely good enough for use by discerning modellers without further surface preparation. I've also seen some ghastly examples (even on this thread) that have been painted without any real attempt to improve surfaces that should be smooth or almost mirror-flat yet which have either a matchstick-model or downright spray-concrete finish! How some modellers fail to see the awfulness of the latter I really do not know, although it might be handy if anybody wanted to portray the one and only LNER experimental concrete-bodied brake van.....
  9. And there's still a bit of space on the boards in North Fiddle Yard for a selection of spare or rarely used items of rolling stock when all of the tracks and the loco-crescent are full! Neatly done. Heck of a catch point to protect South 5 from wrong-way traffic by the look of it......
  10. As I said over on the "Hornby 2020 Range" thread where the comment seemed to sink almost without trace in a sea of over-excitement about gaudily decorated, paraffin burning, boxes-on-wheels: I suspect that clutch of new LNER heavy locos provide evidence of Mr Kohler's return to Margate. I wonder if Hornby might stretch themselves as far as fitting bogie wheels that have a realistic Doncaster look rather than the Honby-generic appearance, along with some fully three-dimensional valve gear parts rather than thin pieces of stamped sheet-metal? Will the different motion bracket faces for the A2/2 and A2/3 be provided, or the same style for both? Quite rightly, you'll still have to do some honest model making work if you want an A2/1 of course! I'm highly unlikely to ever wear out my recently renewed mould for resin W1 cabs and fireboxes to suit A4 conversions now. I might even be tempted to get an original "galloping sausage" 10000 myself, if the financial terms ever seem acceptable. Next products of Mr Kohler's influence? P2/2s wouldn't surprise me at all, eventually..... I was also asked what I thought about the announcement, just after I'd gone to the trouble of re-making one of my main moulds. The question came from a prospective user of some of my conversion parts who now prefers to wait to take the "easier" RTR approach. I found it easy to answer: No problem. It's an ever present risk for anybody who goes to the trouble of making things for themselves, or making parts for others. Such activity almost invites the RTR manufacturers to stick their oar in! I'll gain in respect of having more time to get on with other things, mostly for myself.
  11. Interesting! I suspect that clutch of new LNER heavy locos represents some of the evidence of Mr Kohler's return to Margate. I wonder if Hornby might stretch themselves as far as fitting bogie wheels that have a realistic Doncaster look rather than the Honby-generic appearance, along with some fully three-dimensional valve gear parts rather than thin pieces of stamped sheet-metal? Will the different motion bracket faces for the A2/2 and A2/3 be provided, or the same style for both? Quite rightly, you'll still have to do some honest model making work if you want an A2/1 of course! I'm highly unlikely to ever wear out my recently renewed mould for resin W1 cabs and fireboxes to suit A4 conversions now. I might even be tempted to get an original "galloping sausage" 10000 myself, if the financial terms ever seem acceptable. Next products of Mr Kohler's influence? P2/2s wouldn't surprise me at all, eventually.....
  12. Thanks Jon. Not sounding very promising on that basis. I do have a "plan B" if necessary, although it is a bit fiddly, and rather more "hands on" than I would have preferred. That is to cast in, in the right places, pieces of transparent plastic, using an ordinary white fast-cast resin around those. A convenient clear resin for the whole casting would still be preferable, if anybody knows of one that satisfies the criteria I mentioned above....... Graeme King
  13. I have that issue...... Another one explains how to build your own HST, on a budget. Chicken wire and papier mache figure in the method....
  14. For possible use in a new project I've been considering clear casting resin but in view of my total lack of experience with clear resins I am deterred by a number of things. Firstly I couldn't find an easy, small quantity, on-line purchase option for a clearly identified resin for which I could find a data sheet, because I would have to be certain of negligible shrinkage during the curing process. Secondly, the clear resins I was finding seemed either to be "stinky" polyester, which I might not be able to use in the house, or a type of epoxy with a well-emphasized need for an extremely accurate mixing ratio. Not being at all inclined to mess about with extra equipment such as digital scientific weighing scales I wasn't sure whether I could get away with my careful volumetric technique which always seems to work with "ratio sensitive" RTV mould rubber. If anybody has certain knowledge of a no-stink, no-shrink, mix-ratio-tolerant, clear rigid fast-cast resin that produces strong, faithfully detailed castings in typical RTV rubber moulds and can be bought easily in small quantities I'd be interested to know please.
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