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gr.king

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  1. But when he moves the modelling period further forward he'll already have all of the necessary ghastly, childish, colour combinations with hideously clashing door colours.
  2. Agreed on the first point, but finishing things is surely a case of taking the hobby to extremes.
  3. I'm surprised that the bogie vehicles came with instructions that even went so far as to cover the matter of weighting. My six wheelers came with just a couple of diagrams relating to the wire suspension system, the sliding centre axle, and the suggested (but not employed) magnetically mounted couplings* on a single small sheet of paper. I wasn't satisfied that when the models were un-weighted the suspension for the middle axle was compressing sufficiently at the necessary times to allow the outer wheelsets to remain firmly on the rails, so I added strips of lead under the seat bases, bringing
  4. The voids under the seats are accessible from below, in the corners of the floor structure, so the pins can be pushed back out just as they can be pushed in. Where there's a brake or luggage compartment, the floor is instead solid and there are obviously no seat bases. In those cases I glued plastic blocks securely in the lower corners of the body and put screws up through the floor. A mental note not to tighten the screws like an angry gorilla is required, but that should be obvious in a plastic model anyway.
  5. Here's a glimpse of my finished six wheelers and an indication of one of the ways in which I attached the bodies to the floors, separably.
  6. The bodies and floors come as separate parts for the six-wheelers, but with no provision for attaching one to the other by anything more than the location of the body sides/ ends in a rebate around the edges of the floor, presumably intended for permanent gluing. I made arrangements for discreet use of small screws or plain "slide in, slide out" pins in the corners instead of using glue. Is it all in one lump in the Howlden bogie vehicles?
  7. It was very fortunate that I built my vehicles including a modification that allowed me to separate the body from the floor, giving access to the interior at any desired time. That makes it easier and less nerve-wracking to unclip the roof in a controlled and non-destructive way, by squeezing the gutters from the outside, levering gently at the clips from inside, and working a lever or spacer into the joint from the outside, starting at one end of one side and working along the body. I found that even after carefully filing just the irregularities off the raw printed shapes of the top of
  8. Hello Chas, Nice. We should see more vintage LNER models on here. Did you find that the roof edge actually managed to form a neat, closed joint to the tops of the sides when merely clipped in as supplied? I had to use additional persuasion when building my six-wheelers. My main concern about the tension lock coupling (if you need one of that width) would be that it sticks out way beyond the buffer heads. Is there a way to reduce the projection until it is just enough to prevent problems with buffers on your track curves? The cornice / gutter strip on the roof edge ought t
  9. I noted that one reference to very dark grey, but that alone doesn't inspire my confidence sufficiently to place an order for something listed simply as grey, perhaps to find on receipt that it is simply another mid-grey primer... The No8 Acid etch that is sold at Halfrauds as grey is definitely not very dark grey.
  10. I note that is in fact a U-Pol product. I've used the grey variety, from Halfrauds, but had no idea that there's a black version. Some time spent looking at the mighty web suggests it is at present no more readily available in the UK than are hen's teeth. Do you have a link to a current, reasonably priced source please?
  11. If you want the slightly fancier look to the grab handle, with the short "legs" top and bottom of the long handle bent over to one side, that's easy to do too. Once you have your basic staple shape, you need two short slots in the edge of a piece of sheet metal (some spare etch edging for instance) so that you can drop the legs of the staple into the slots. Then you keep the "crossbar" of the staple against the metal sheet and bend the legs over on the other side. Remove from the slots and you have esesntially the same shape as say an MJT etched handle.
  12. A couple of pins the right distance apart in a piece of board would serve as a simple jig to allow you to fold up as many grab handles as you could ever need from some nice thin brass wire. I sometimes find that a strip of staples of the right size lurks in my stationery cupboard too, and they can look okay when painted.
  13. When making up my paper bellows for gangway connectors I now routinely use some black thread and a sewing needle to discreetly tether them, equally, near the top and the bottom, allowing them to remain fully springy but limiting their expansion to the "necessary amount" to keep the gaps between carriages closed, and ensuring that when there is no adjacent carriage they still have vertical end plates. Each carriage can thus be used as either an end vehicle or an intermediate one.
  14. Based on a conversation I had a couple of years ago, with a directly employed NHS hospital-based audiologist, you might benefit from speaking to such a person about the need for, and the characteristics of, different kinds of hearing aids, before you pay large amounts of money to an independent provider for something "fancy", even if that provider holds the NHS contract for your area. You may find that something more basic and less expensive is equally suitable.
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