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  1. Hi Jim, Great to hear from you! Please feel free to share your progress here, it's always interesting to see it. I think I will stick to iron wire for the 3 links and relocate the motor to be further forwards and lower down when I redo the chassis, I have several other locos, none of which suffer from this problem, and I quite like working with the iron. It bends nice and cleanly, and has a nice weight to it, giving the couplings a prototypical sag. For the next step, there are a couple of things I'd like to try to help lay track a bit faster. I have an idea of trying to produce something resembling Flexi track for the plain sections, but I need to sort out the ventilation on the laser cutter before I can have a proper go. I also need need to work on my soldering a bit to have a go at the controller, as it's still probably not good enough.
  2. Almost two years, three house moves, a change of country and (almost) a whole global pandemic later, what has happened? In my last post I had started to fit sleepers to the baseboard, however I quickly found myself out of my depth when I got to the first curve. Clearly I needed more practice in trackbuilding, but I had ran out of rails. I was also experiencing problems using card as a modelling media and was beginning to understand Jim's use of shellac, as it stops the card from feathering at the edges, and in theory should let blades stay sharp for longer. I needed some shellac. I was due to return to the UK from Germany at the end of August 2019, so planned to wait until I had returned before buying what I needed as I did not want to have to bring it all back. The date kept moving back and eventually in December I moved back to the UK. Until May of this year I haven't been living anywhere with room to get any proper modelling done, but now things are starting to happen! First I have been practicing track building. To start with let's see, "Yff" I can build "pretty" track, then "Yff" I can build a functional turnout. So, first pretty track: This is code 80 rail from peco n gauge Flexi track, on card sleepers. It is OO gauge with shortened sleepers, and I am happy with it, so I will stick to 16.5mm. Next was the big "Yff", the turnout. For this I wanted as few things as possible to be able to go wrong, so I kept the n gauge sleepers but cut them in half down the middle. After filing the rails, these were glued to a thick piece of stiff card. The tie bar was soldered to a scrap of pcb. It certainly isn't pretty, but it worked first time! Next "Yff", "Yff" I can build wagon bodies. Card has shown it's benefits as a material to practice with. I have made several attempts at wagon bodies, and so far, all have been learning experiences and have ended up in the bin I think I'm getting close to something I'm happy with, and will post when I am. I recently had the opportunity to purchase an inexpensive second hand laser cutter, so this might improve things. So far I have used it to cut some frames for a replacement chassis for a mainline manor class in which the intermediate gear shafts had snapped due to mazac rot. I'm currently on version 4, and there are still some issues, but I think I am close to 4mm scale model running with card frames. Speaking of... The Airfix 14xx chassis must be replaced. There are no proper bearings around the drive wheels, the universal joint between the motor and worm are hard to lubricate, the weight distribution is terrible, the spring under the undriven axle requires constant adjustment and the cab is full of motor. When I have finished the Manor chassis next on the list is a shellacked card chassis for the 14xx. Finally, "Yff" 3 links are possible. I'm still working on that one. For some stock there are no problems. I briefly had a 2nd radius test track set up on the dining table to see what would and wouldn't work. It seems like on most locomotives, propelling with the smokebox end is possible but not from the bunker end. Also, the 14xx has the magnet for the motor right up against the bunker wall, so the iron wire I have been using for 3 links has caused problems. More investigation needed here I think
  3. Does anybody know a good paint match for the PLA Peckett? I'm building planet industrials' part date kit, and would like to keep the livery. Also does anyone know of a lining transfer set? Thanks
  4. Aldi have some Hornby sets on their website at the moment. The standard 0-4-0 + 3 wagons etc is a bit expensive, but I noticed they have a 3 coach javelin set for £79.99. I haven't seen it cheaper https://www.aldi.co.uk/Hornby-intercity-express-train-set/p/700103424284601
  5. Using this button at the top you can change how it is rendered: The translucent blue and wireframe options make it far easier to see what is going on. As far as I can see, they have just left some clearance around the axle ends. I would recommend looking at the models with the different renderings, you can even see the luggage racks in the compartments
  6. Hi Porcy, I know this was a while ago, but Ijust picked one of these up, wondering how you got it into it's component pieces? Is there a specific solvent you used? Thanks
  7. JIJ

    New Hornby Rocket

    With gears glued on perchance?
  8. Just perfect, I have been considering getting one and doing something similar myself. How well do you think the colour compares to the sdjr blue? It might be my screen, but it looks a touch on the green side to me?
  9. Hi Retiredoperator and Marc, The scale sleepers definitely add to the illusion, but I think the main thing is the Hornby track is code 100 where the rails I am using are n gauge code 80 (because it's cheap, and looks better imho), so the distance to the outside of the rails is smaller. Surprisingly, all of the stock I have checked will run across my test pieces without fouling the sleepers (my triang dock shunter with original gnurled wheels not regauged will even run on the 18.2 mm plain track ). I have started to place sleepers on the baseboard but I ideally need to get some more rails. The pickups on the 14xx have proved unreliable in EM as there is too much space between the chassis and the wheels, so I am planning to replace them with wipers soldered to PCB board mounted to the bottom of the chassis. I personally don't currently see a need for replacing the chassis as it seems to do a good job with a bit of fettling of the rear axle spring, and I'm not expecting it to haul much. In other news I am currently no expert when it comes to making rolling stock out of card, I find the edges tend to feather, and I struggle to achieve good joints, but I have been practicing cutting and glueing square with plastic, and have currently built an RCH 7 plank wagon (Shown at the top, not sure how to change image position on mobile)
  10. Hi Charlie, I don't claim to understand the intricacies of dealing with shapeways, or with rescaling in your CAD software, but would you be willing to sell the cab fronts for the 158 in OO as you have done with the 185 and 360? Thanks
  11. Update time! Over the past few months I've been slowly experimenting with materials and methods and improving my skills, mainly marking and cutting accurately. I have built and rebuild several times a simple open wagon that I'm still not happy with but I'm getting close to having something. Most of the wagon chassis have been converted to three links, which look much better than tension locks, and aren't that much more fiddley to uncouple manually. Here is a converted wagon chassis with another project, a Hornby railroad 08 body on a Lima 09 chassis: This evening though, I had my first crack at track building. Using cardstock sleepers and rails from peco n gauge Flexi track, I built a quick 150mm section just to get a feel for it. Here is the result next to a piece of Hornby code 100 track for reference: One thing was immediately apparent; it just looks so narrow! I'm sure I don't need to explain the perculiarities of OO gauge here, but it made me want to try building another test section to EM gauge. Here it is compared to the earlier attempt: To my eyes a massive improvement! The advantage of EM compared to P4, as I understand it, is that the flange profiles are similar to OO so that most things can be regauged with by simply pushing the wheels out on the axles. I'm looking at my stock and trying to see how easy it is to convert. Some wagons are very easy, whereas others require a visit from a file to remove material that is otherwise interfering with the wheel movement. For now, I don't expect this layout to run with more than the 14xx, the 08 and a handful of four wheeled stock, so I can leave the rest of my stock untouched unless/until I decide to go EM on my next, larger layout.
  12. I picked my cattewater up for £15 last year, second hand (with slight damage to the glazing), but it gives you an idea of the demand... I was hoping I could find a similar bargain on a peckett, but no luck so far (as expected)
  13. Let's see, we're expecting something parallel boiler, inside valvegear, 0-6-0. Hornby have a preference for southern. And something eyebrow raising. An Ilfracombe Goods perhaps?
  14. According to Andy Cuckson's book on the SDR: "Livery for working locomotives was black with red buffer beams. Nobel's stack black and red lead paints... By the 1930s the numbers in unknown colour, but probably white were added to the buffer beams... In the 1940s the numbering was quite clearly white lead". This applies to both the Baldwins and the Kerr Stuart. As Killian states, the liverys were more flamboyant eariel in the railways history. The earlier Bagnall "Dennis" was painted in a larch green with red and yellow lining, Belmont was red lead, and Fernhill's livery was unknown. The pictures in the book also clearly show the effect of the white dust mentioned by Dava.
  15. The trackplan will be unchanged from Jim's original, shown here: Here is a poor picture of the board. Apologies for the picture quality, I've never been any good at taking photos Next, the infamous airfix 14xx tank With the plunger pickups thoroughly binned, wiper pickups were installed. This drawing approximately shows what I've done. A piece of bent phosphor bronze strip, an interference fit in the hole for the plunger pickups, wiping on the rears off the tyres. The standard circuit, is used. . It does run, but needs some adjustments to the rear axle suspension. That's all for now, next will be something for the 14xx to haul, and then I'll have a go at track building, then scenery hopefully. Joseph
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