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  1. It wouldn’t surprise me, us Brits never could get sealing things right...you only have to look at our cars from earlier times...if there wasn’t an oil leak coming from it, it didn’t have any oil left...
  2. A fantastic response to my question. Absolutely brilliant and the photos are a fascinating journey in history. Now when I show a pic of my F9 coupled to my GP15-1, any who says it never happened I can show pics to prove it might have done. Tremendous! Cheers Martin
  3. Thanks for the reply John, I don’t think my short line could afford or handle an SD 80 lol. I love hearing all these little anecdotes of what happened and the nicknames that were used. Prior to Nationalization in the UK (note the use of the ‘z’), the big four railways companies had similar nicknames. London Midland and Scottish was known as the hell of a mess. London North Eastern was the Late and never early, Great Western was God’s wonderful railway, and the Southern...well it was a play on its overall size and the first letter...the Cindere
  4. The article in Model Railroading was a review on this particular engine. I have no way of testing for the actual amps, but they did publish this chart which shows their findings. There is no arguments, I really appreciate everyone’s comments. Cheers Martin
  5. Wow, That’s a great reply and just what I needed to know. Great pics as well! Thanks Martin
  6. Hi Hey, I’m just copying what the NRMA directive states... as for banging heads against a wall...join my club, you’d be very welcome lol. Anyway, we got there in the end and thanks to all your help. Cheers Martin
  7. That’s a great reply and just what I needed to know. Thanks Martin
  8. A quick question about US railroad in real life. Are US locos able to couple up to all other types of US loco? I mean, can a F9 couple up to a GP32 for example? Here in the UK, compatibility between locomotive types was virtually non existent, many engines having a symbol on their front and rear end to distinguish what other engines they could couple up to and work with. I think over here it was something to do with vacuum and air brakes and steam heating (yes in a diesel) fittings. I’m just wondering if American locos faced the same problems. I don’t want to take a pic
  9. A post script to this... From Model Railroader for March 2007 “The Trainman GP15 isn't available in a DCC-equipped version, but a decoder can be installed. The model includes a removable secondary printed-circuit (PC) board, two plugs with color-coded wires that follow NMRA Recommended Practice 9.1.1, and a separate instruction sheet describing how to connect those plugs to the main PC board and a heavy-duty (6 amp) decoder.” Recommended Practice Section 1.1 S- Six and eight pin Interface S- JST 9 Interface S- 21M
  10. Hurrah! Thank you Pete M for steering me in the right direction, which is not the way the engine faces... So, I connected one white wire to F0f and one yellow wire to F0r...lights came on and off as I changed directions but not the way it’s supposed to. So, connected the two white wires to F0f and the two yellow wires to F0r...Hurrah, directional lights, but... Set the engine to go forward and the long rear end, is that called the hood end? goes the wrong way for the lights, vice versa with the opposite direction. I E, the red lights at the cab e
  11. Wow, many many thanks PeteM, just the information I was looking for. i will try this out in a couple of days and report back on the forum. Incidentally, I’ve found out that NEC produced a decoder ref: D408SR which uses the same twin plug configuration for DCC , 4 pin for pickup and motors and 9 pin for lighting and other ancillaries as is fitted to this locomotive. Unfortunately the wiring for the 9 pin plug doesn’t correspond with the wiring in my loco, although the four pin wiring is the same and DCC compliant.
  12. Thanks for the reply. I think we are at cross purposes here, I’ve never said the wiring confirmed to normal practice and it has been pointed out before in this thread that early American so called ‘DCC ready’ locos used a similar set up. The four pin plug containing grey, orange, red and black wires are to the same format as DCC. It’s a totally different plug but the wires do the same job as on any other DCC setup, ie pickups and motor. That side of if is working wonderfully well. The JST plug and 8 wires is the one I’m enquiring about. Here we have two yellow, two white, one green,
  13. Sunday update... Going from the 9 pin 8 wire JST plug and socket Well, everything I’ve seen and trued to find out points to the blue wire being the + in wire, and the yellow and white wires are the headlights/tail lights. so, connect to blue wire to the correct terminal, it says + input... connect the yellow wire to the correct terminal...it says headlight front, and the white wire to the next terminal, which says headlight rear. Power up and the cab end lights come on when forward is selected on the controller. Change the direction and the cab end lights go o
  14. Saturday morning update... Ok, with some trepidation, I pulled off the blanking plate inside the engine. You have no need to take the body off this one as the middle section of the roof clips on and is easy to remove in a Dapol 08 fashion. Looking at the motherboard and after moving the birds nest of wiring for both motors, the two sockets we are concerned with are both marked DCC. So, taking the 4 pin plug, I connected the wires in true DCC fashion to the decoder...red, black,grey and orange and plugged the plug into its socket on the mother board. I also connected the l
  15. It’s only what I’ve been told. I’d much rather put a heavy duty decoder in than watch the little puff of white smoke and black holes appearing on components where black holes shouldn’t be...
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