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  • Location
    West of Salisbury
  • Interests
    Making little steam engines, trying to make my first layout (70D) at a very ripe age, Art, Music, my 4 daughters and their offspring, my wife, a deep pool of wisdom and intelligence very scary in a way.
    Modern European History, well any history really, travelling by all forms of transport, motor racing and much more I can't talk about.
    Oh! reading too, discovered the wonderful optimistic SF books of the late Iain M Banks - if only we could become "The Culture" we have wherewithal - just need to focus!

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  1. Final update for today. I have now soldered the two running plate angles to the running plate with the help of always useful hair clips. I tacked the angle to the centre of the running plate and then re-checked that the radii at each end still fitted the angle frofile and then prgressively soldered from the centre to the radii. and so on. All worked very well and I will take DLT's advice and leave the support "land" on the running plate angles while I assemble the body to ensure all is square. The boiler casting fits fairly well so the running plate profile is not too bad. I have looked into John's (Tomlinson) view that the boiler casting is not right looking a bit like a humpbacked whale. I can see what he means! I have checked the casting against the Isinglass drawing (4/390) and it seems ok. It does though have a few problems. Whilst the front section of the boiler has a cast whitemetal insert to fill in the missing underside of the boiler this is not the case at the firebox end, which is understandable given the motor and gearbox reside at that end. I will aim to extend the underside of the boiler down to the running plate at the firebox end too, using the 2 thou brass sheet. That's the plan! First side and all is going well, I took my time on this task continually checking the visable side to ensure all was well. Second side showing how I used hair clips as heat sinks and clamps. All done with boiler offered up. Kind regards, Richard B
  2. Have now added my little extra's to the A1/1 chassis so time to move onto the body. Kind regards, Richard B
  3. Hello Jack, Many thanks for your kind comments. How is you layout going? My next build is very likely to be a Urie S15 (DJH). I have built one from the DJH kit at the begining of my loco building "career" so it will be interesting to see what I have learnt! Best wishes to you and stay safe, Kind regards, Richard PS Have located a house in Buxton so move planning into top gear - loco building a relaxing escape!
  4. John/Michael, Thanks for the advice regarding the boiler, not sure I'm ready to make a brass taper boiler! If needed I will give it a go. My kit has the resin casting, a brass overlay for the smokebox and a cast whitemetal section for filling in the underside of the boiler. It looks ok but will check all with the drawing and pictures. Getting a representative view of a boiler form is a bit difficult since most pictures were taken at rail level. John, Do you have a thread for your loco builds? Would like to have a look at them if you don't mind. Running plate bent to shape using tool ends (Box spanner, Xacto knife) and my trusty wooden dowell. Looks fine. Kind regards, Richard B
  5. Chassis is now complete apart from frame mounted steam pipes from outside cylinders, a Thompson weak point by all accounts, and some additional support brackets for bogie wheel spats. The trailing wheel axlebox/spring casting needed careful cleaning and eith it, or more likely, the cab footsteps are a little too long so I had to remove and fettle the footsteps to suit. I am pleased with the result. House hunting entering its final phase with a trip up to Derbyshire next week, must get it all done before risk of another lockdown. Drivers side. Firemans side. I have ordered some 1 thou brass sheet from Eileen's Emporium to provide the firebox wrapper. The wrapper and its securing bolts/rivets (?) is such a feature of the later LNER pacifics so I will try to replicate it relying on the firebox/boiler boiler band to hide the join. That's the theory! Kind regards, Richard B
  6. Not much progress but the chassis is now a 4-6-2 so that is something! Soon I will be dealing with those curves on the running plate! Should be interesting! Kind regards, Richard B
  7. Many thanks John. I'm no stranger to Debyshire winters. Back in the 1980s our Derbyshre village was cut off for three days with no power. Huge winds following heavy snow blocked all the roads. Cooking on our open fireplace was a challenge taking so long! The stews were tasty though! Kind regards, Richard B PS Jumpers currently on store will be fettled!
  8. PS ... As mentioned above, I really like the Hornby "Miles Beevor" but have spotted a few areas that need improving! Particularly the firebox support members and reversing rod. Thank goodness for that, if it was perfect I would be upset that I couldn't tinker a bit!
  9. I have been very busy house hunting. We are "under offer" so need to find somewhere fast. We are looking in the Derbyshire High Peak. I have lived in Derbyshire around Ashbourne for twenty odd years so know the area and the very friendly people fairly well. Mrs B fancies Buxton and who am I to question her choice? It still has a railway line thank goodness! I have now assembled the valve gear on one side to check clearances etc and I must say it all went together well and runs very smoothly. I needed to thin down the leading crankpin nut, as usual, and fit two 1mm washers behind the connecting rod big end and apply a slight set to the rod to provide clearance. The Markits return crank is, as DLT mentioned earlier, a lovely piece of engineering. I have made it look a ittle smaller by chamfering the sides and it will also look smaller when weathered. It is though a little wide at the crankpin but no worse than the DJH version. I think it is very good and is very robust. Some pictures showing the return crank in various positions. Kind regards, Richard B
  10. Hi Ray, If you have built lots of loco kits then you have probably learnt a lot that will help in scratch building a loco. Can I ask if you have built brass/nickel silver kits from etches thta required bending and forming parts? This can be tricky. Like you I reached the stage when I wished to scratch build a loco. I chose to build an Adams 0395 because a 6 coupled chassis is easier to build well than a 4-4-0/0-4-4. You will need to be a dab hand with a piercing saw and tin snips and it all takes time but it is rewarding! For what it is worth, I concluded that I had proven to my self I could do it and then continued to build brass/white metal kits, life is too short! Kind regards, Richard B
  11. I have little justification for this but just received my Hornby A4 60026. Puchased firstly to compare with 60700 when my one is delivered but also because they were fabulous locomotives! What a great model ! A1/1 work continues. Kind regards, Richard B
  12. Motor and gearbox assembled and run, just needed to slightly increase the mesh between worm gear and idler - runs, as expected with HL, very well. Plunger pickups fitted and wired - need to be very careful with amount of heat applied to avoid damaging nylon bushes. Motor and gearbox assembly with Adams 0395 keeping it company. Plunger pickups fitted to all wheels. Chassis re-assembled. Thats is as far as I want to take it today, erection of valve gear next. Kind regards, Richard B
  13. Hi, Valve gear all complete and ready for erecting on the loco chassis. Coupling rods now fitted and required very little tweeking before they ran very smoothly. My concern for the integrity of the rear frame has led me to stregnthen this assembly with two additional stretchers. The stretchers fit into the half etch bending locations. Sorry not a very good picture even for my low standard! Underside showing clearance slot for rear carrying wheel casting. Motor and gearbox has arrived so I shall fit that and plunger pick-ups before valve gear assembly. Kind regards, Richard B
  14. Hi Matti, Great to hear from a new member of the website! I would not use sandpaper anyway - I did use a very fine "wet and dry" paper, that has been well used, to clean up the larger areas of the boiler. I agree that it all too easy to remove detail such as boiler wash outs and rivet detail. I also use an etching primer coat prior to the top coat and this tends to highlight any areas that require further cleaning up. It is also true that steam locomotives, after years of use and many repaints, do have a fairly worn appearance for example, smokeboxes can have a very rough surface! I am not suggesting we ignore cleaning up prior to painting, just don't overdo it and look at as many photographs of the prototype as possible, you may find that it's finish is not as perfect as you first thought! Kind regards, Richard B
  15. We had a very pleasant Bank Holiday with family which included our latest grandson who is nearly 9 months old. He is a lovely little chap! Oldest grandson is 23 so a wide spread. I have ordered a coreless motor and high flyer gearbox from Chris - same set up as the A2/3 - I was so impressed. All of the valvegear is now riveted were necessary and ready for assembly so I focused on the cylinders, slide bars and crossheads. The slidebars in particular need careful fettling and removal from the casting tree. I made up cylinder end covers (including pressure relief valves) and piston end covers from thin aluminium to enhance appearance. The kit includes a brass overlay for the cylinder sheet steel cover. This includes bolt detail which looks very good. I particularly like the way the cylinders are located in the frames with spigots of which more later. R/H cylinder assembly complete, L/H still to do, you can just see how distorted the slide bar for this cylinder is prior to fettling. The completed cylinders, R/H cylinder has a temporary handrail knob inserted to secure the overlay! L/H was formed more accurately. Kind regards, Richard B
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