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Firecracker

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  1. Firecracker
    Now, the latest challenge, thanks to the shop at the Chasewater railway and my mouth.  Fit a DCC decoder into the Bachman wickham trolley.  It has to be invisible and having dismantled the offending item, I decided it would be better under the floor of the trolley (saved interfering with the motor on the trailer).  I also decided to keep the electrics as original as possible, to save issues.  So...
     
    First, modify the PCB in the trolley chassis, removing the capacitors and chokes, plus drilling out the holes in the PCB, to make it easier to connect the decoder wires.
     
    Next, I attacked the chassis with a burr in the Dremel flexi-drive.  The idea was remove enough material to ensure the decoder (Zimo Mx616R) fits with its heat shrink intact and give a bit of room for the wires.  Straightforward job, slow and steady sees it done.

    Like so.

    Hopefully, having trial fitted the PCB, all that remains is to solder the four wires to the connections on the PCB and reassemble.  Stay tuned for part 2, to see if it worked.
     
    Owain
     
     
  2. Firecracker
    Here’s my quick, easy and dirty way to get plastic to look more like wood.   Here were attacking the interior of three wagons, two Hornby and one Bachman.   Most of the ideas were nicked off various YouTube tutorials and demonstrations of various products.  One important thing is that this will give a grain to the finish, so identify which way this is running (usually along the length of a plank) and your brushstrokes should be in that direction.
     
    First, here’s what we start with.  The interior of a Bachman 8 plank P.O. wagon, which has been manufactured in a shade of olive drab.  Makes a change from red oxide or chocolate brown (I’m looking at you, Hornby).

    Give the interior a coat of a light tan (in this case, humbrol 121).

    Using a flat Hog’s hair brush (introduced to my by an artist friend, who also commented when seeing the paint drawer ‘haven’t you got any cheery colours?’), dry brush with a dark earth brown and a light grey (humbrol 28&29).  As mentioned, drybrush in the direction of the grain.

    Finally treat it with a grey wash (in this case humbrol dark grey) and remove the excess with a cotton wall bud.  Don’t rush the removal, else the original paint may start to show through (as seen on the Armstrong Whitworth 4 planker.  This is going to end up as a runner/tender for a L&Y pug, so those bits will get covered in bags of coal and ‘stuff’).  Certainly those ejector pin marks need hiding.

    A variant, for a more bleached look, omit the dry brush stage and go straight to the wash.  You can also vary the degree to which the wash is removed, as the war flat behind the lowmac shows.  The lowmac has also had rust from the steel beams in the deck spread to the timbers.

    Anyway, quick, easy and I think it’s not too bad. It’s certainly an improvement on the original.
     
    Owain
     
  3. Firecracker
    Right mates, I’ve been upgrading the facilities.  First, a bit of history.  11 years ago I bought a garage with a house attached.  The garage got equipped quite rapidly as a workshop.  4 years later, due to a difference of opinion between my then boss and me, it started to look like the plan B for a wage involved the contents of said garage and me using them.  I then got a new job.  Fast forward  a few years and my rentry to the hobby.  There was some space in the garage, with the departure of some tools to the the new job.  However, there wasn’t tons of space, plus a brick garage in December isn’t the warmest place in the world.  However, I wasn’t sure if I’d stay interested in the hobby, so I didn’t want to upset the applecart.  That was 18 months ago.
     
    I decided I was definitly into the hobby.  So at that point, this was the bench I’m doing most of the work at (there are another two in there, but this is the only one you can get your legs under).  It’s a mess because a) I work at it and b) it’s too small.  It’s also too low, as my back regularly reminds me.

    So, an upgrade.  But where?  I don’t want it in the main body of the house, there’s no room in the garage.  But is has to be warm, easy to get to and ideally has natural light.  A bit of experimentation showed that the small conservatory on the back of the house (used as storage in winter and somewhere to sip a bear or three in summer) with the addition of a small blower heater could tick all these boxes. Note the title, one of the joys of living on your own, your gaff, your rules.   So....
     
    A bit of experimentation gave a height of 800mm, and an available length of 1500mm.  It needed storage and after a bit of research I found these cabinets at Halfords.  They’re intended to bolt onto the end of a workshop rollchest.  I’ve got two Halfords industrial rollies, one at work (along with a giant Machine Mart effort) the other in the garage, so I was happy with the quality.  Just need to add a few bits (hardboard offcuts and ally tube) to reach the desired height of the worktop.

    Next, a top.  600mm deep 12mm white faced hardboard from B&Q (other DIY superstores are available).  Cut to size in store, to give the top and end panel (plus fit in the car).  A 20x45mm batten goes along the back as a stiffener and it’s held together with L brackets and joining cubes.

    And finally, we move in!  The height according to my back is much better, it’s warm, so I’ve got no excuse for not getting on now. Keeping it tidy, that’s another question....
     
    If anyone is wondering,, the bin started life as a 25l drum full of industrial ethanol.  That got used, I acquired the drum, filled it with water and cut the top off.  

     
    Owain
     
  4. Firecracker
    Following on from the TE20, I’ve picked up one of Oxfords efforts at the ‘big brother’, the MF 135.  Produced between 1964-75, after Ferguson and Massey-Harris had amalgamated into Massey Ferguson, the 45hp 135 was a very sucesfull tractor.  Still in use on a lot of farms as a reserve machine, I felt I could get away with it in the present day (plus I spent some of my teens driving one turning hay and worked on several in a summer job).
     
    Onto the model, and it’s rather damned nice.  The only area of issue is the front axle, it needs similar work to the TE20, however the drop arms for the stub axles are decidedly over scale.  Short of major surgery, I can’t see how this can be rectified, so for the moment it’s being left.

     
    The other mod I’m making is on the cab.  It’s the factory cab, and yes, as built, they did have a canvas sheet down the back.  However, I’ve only seen these on tractors on a rally field.  In the real world, they got tattered and in the way, so soon disappeared. Before...

    And after.  Why hide that lovely detail?

    And an implement.  The layout it’s going on is set June-ish, so I’ve decided to model something I’ve never seen done, a field that’s been mowed and baled for silage.  This beast is on bale-shifting duty, from the field to wherever the wrapper is based, did this as well in my youth, but with a MF575, (c’mon Oxford, make one, then I can completely model my teens).  So it needs a bale spike, a few scraps of styrene plus a tack yield something about right.  Just needs a spot of weathering and it’s there!

     
    Owain
  5. Firecracker
    This is one of those things that doesn’t fit anywhere, so it might as well go here.  The grey fergie (or to give it its proper title ‘Tractor, England, 20hp’) and breathing on the oxford offering.
     
    A bit of history, the fergie came out of the fertile mind of Harry Ferguson (aka. ‘The mad mechanic of Belfast’).  Ferguson was an inventor and developer, his tractors were first built by David Brown, then Ford, then the Standard Motor Co.  The fundamental idea of the Ferguson system was to make the implement (eg a plough) part of the tractor, rather than have it trailing behind.  This meant the down force exerted by the ploughshares in the soil could increase the traction of the tractor, thus the tractor can be lighter.  Also if the plough hits an obstruction, the system releases the load, so the tractor spins it’s wheels rather than rear up and land on the driver (as was the wont of the Fordson).
     
    The TE-20 grew out of the Ford 9N, following the dissolution of the infamous ‘handshake agreement’ (and resultant lawsuits) between Ferguson and Henry Ford.  Following the refusal of Ford UK to build his tractors at Dagenham, Ferguson approached the Standard Motor Co, whose shadow factory at Banner Lane was empty following the end of WW2.  The rest is history, leading to (imho) a tractor that would finish the revolution of mechanisation in agriculture the Fordson F started.
     
    Anyway, onto the model.  I’ve encoutered three models in OO, Springside (bit of a curates egg, good in parts), the Langley kit (the dearest and currently in the ‘to do’ pile, so unable to comment further at this moment in time) and Oxford’s offering (cheapest, some crude detail and missing link arms (which was the major selling point of the fergie))..  I’m after 4, to pose on a warflat as per these (and as I’ve said elsewhere, that date is wrong, I think it’s 1948)

    So, the Oxford fergie.  There’s a bit of crude detail, mainly in the front axle and side arms (being fair, this is mainly due to the manufacturing process).  On the other hand, the engine detail is spot on, the model is definitely a TE-A (starter motor and toolbox on LHS of engine, no TVO vaporiser shield around the exhaust manifold)  The track of the wheels is too wide and there’s a bright silver front axle that shouldn’t be there.  Oh, and the link arms of the Ferguson system are missing completely.

    So, wheels.  The rear is easy, remove the wheels form the axle, file off the hub from the inside, shorten the axle by about 1-2mm and refit.
     
    Next, the front.  I first cut the axle with a pair of snips and removed the two halves.  The axle is trimmed back to a 2mm (ish) stub. Remove the inner hub until it’s flush with the back of the wheels, and refit with superglue.  File the stubs flush on the inside of the stub axle arms.


    Next up (ie I haven’t worked it out yet) the missing link (arms)
     
    Owain
  6. Firecracker
    Something a little different, insinuating a chip into a Dapol pug.  This little beastie is actually the first brand new loco I bought with my own money (in 199-something, in a long closed model shop in Penrith).  It’s spent the last 15 years in a box, so let’s see if it can be resurrected.
     
    First up, chip location.  I don’t want it in the cab, plus we’re using a Hornby chip. Saddle tank?  Offer it up.  Yes, it’ll fit with a bit out of the ballast weight.  

    So attack that with hacksaw and file.

    And check the wires will fit past the motor.

    Complete all four connections (remembering to thread the heat shrink on first).

    Onto the program track, check the address, reset to last two digits of loco number (my personal house style).  Then try it out and because we’re sure it’s OK, video it at the same time!
    The chip is just sat on top for the test (the motor isn’t screwed down either).  Then wrap the chip in heat shrink, insinuate into the tank, refit the cab and another loco is outshopped.
     
    Or it would be, if further test running didn’t show up a back to back issue (there’s a clue in the sligh waddle the hind end has as well) on the trailing wheel set (incidentally, these aren’t the original wheel sets, they’re Hornby replacements obtained after the original drive gear stripped).  So for it to run through my points, it needs a little further fettling.
     
    Stay tuned...
     
    Owain
     
  7. Firecracker
    So, the saga continues!  Off we go.  Practice, practice, juggle air pressure, paint viscosity, clogs.  Slowly getting there, just about got it sorted.....sort of, in the right light...if you don’t look too closely.  Really taken with it for track weathering, gives a lovely effect.


     
    Owain
     
     
     
  8. Firecracker
    I’ve fancied a decent airbrush since me teens.  So when I was offered a brand new Paasche talon at a very good price, I couldn’t resist.  
     

     
    So, there’s already a compressor lurking in the garage (just slight overkill, 2hp 3 phase motor, 30l tank, supplies 8cfm, so that should keep up with the brush)
     

     
    Next, an air regulator and water trap.  Got one of those too, just need to adapt the output down to 1/8”BSP.  So rummage the box of random air fittings and fire up the lathe!
     
    And here we are!  
     

     
    Oh yes, knew I’d missed something out.  Paint.  Back in a mo...
     
    Owain
  9. Firecracker
    As my previous entry mentioned, I’m playing with plasticote’s textured spray paint, as a method for modelling tarmac or similar. First up, how does it behave over different colours and will it take washes?
     
    So, our first photograph in the middle we have the unadulterated, to the right it’s had a wash of Payne’s grey over it, the texture survives but a lot of the colour is overwhelmed. Not far off new tarmac, methinks. On the left (and the photo doesn’t do it justice, there’s a lovely variation of colour) is it applied over a coat of yes, you’ve guessed it, Payne’s grey. Next idea is to paint different areas of the road with grey, then apply the spray. See if we can get a bit of the variation roads naturally display across their width. Watch this space.....
     
    Finally, there’s this accidental result on the layout, when it was applied over a acrylic wash (grey/black/brown) whilst the wash was still wet (a frantic attempt to get the ash and road surface to blend a bit). Masking was done with hand held bits of card, the track still needs ballasting, but it’s an unexpected and rather pleasing effect. The crossings need some more weathering, we’re aiming for weathered timber there, but I’m rather taken with it.
     
    Owain
  10. Firecracker
    Right. Having returned to the hobby(blame a younger cousin, it’s all his fault), I’ve started a layout topic (http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/135595-sedbergh-as-a-preserved-railway/) and here’s some of the other adventures that didn’t fit in there.
     
    So, my methods of fitting kaydees to UK wagons (note, these are not the ‘correct’ methods, they just work for me. Couplings I think are one of those things (like religion or CAD/CAM software) where everyone’s got their own and periodically start trying to convert the heathen to their cause. Me - I like kaydees. They’re easy to fit, reliable if fitted correctly, readily available, if bought in bulk not too dear and the uncouplers can be hidden under the track. I tend to assemble them using EMA plastic weld, applied VERY CAREFULLY with a fine brush.
     
    First up - the Bachman efforts where there is an NEM pocket, it’s just at the wrong height. To me the easiest way is to remove the coupling, pocket and the sides of that bizarre dovetail mounting and file flush with the bottom of the buffer beam (1) (sometimes the moulded drawhook will also foul the coupler, so on these 16 tonners that’s got to come off as well). Then add a no5 kaydee (due to the current layout being near-as-damn it straight, I set the couplers in as far as possible. If you’ve got real curves, you’ll need to pull them out a bit). Rule of thumb - look across the buffer heads and try to get the inner face in line with the heads. Also make sure the coupling is on the centre line of the chassis. Check it against the height gauge and job done!(2). Old Bachman with the screw mount - remove the coupling and all the mounting (3) then fit as above.
     
    Kitbuilt - I’ve recently recovered these 12t vans built from parkside’s offerings, they were built for a shunting puzzle layout (‘United Marine and Locomotive’) built as a bet to fit in uni accommodation and set somewhere in the industrial NE (or possibly South Wales). Anyway, it’s off with the tension locks, add styrene packing material (~30-40 thou) or until level with the buffer beam, then add a no 5 again! (4). If the frame detail is level with the buffer beam, as on this 13t open, you don’t even have to bother with the packing. (5)
     
    Anyway, just a few thoughts. As I get to them I’ll show others, such as the Dapol/airfix mountings and the oddball stuff (Kit built Shark from a Cambrian kit, anyone?)
     
    Owain

  11. Firecracker
    Following on from my first offering, a few more thoughts. First up, the airfix mounting and working round/with them. First option - remove the whole lot, mount a No. 5 at bufferbeam height and jobs done (1). Second option, the mounting is at near-as-blow it the height of an NEM pocket. So is it possible to insinuate (remove the central pin, slot in the coupler, secure with superglue) a NEM fitted kaydee with the cranked shank? Yep, it seems to work (2). On to Dapol. They continued the airfix mounting, as currently do Hornby. However they also used their own screw mounted effort, as seen on their pug. These are dead easy, just take a no. 18 kaydee and drill a hole for the screw in the shank. Job done!(3)
     
    Now, a few thoughts on faultfinding. First up, alignment, vertical and horizontal. The coupler must be on the centre line of the vehicle and the height checked against the gauge. Second, drooping couplers. Usually due to the NEM pocket being slightly too deep (although on Bachman check that where the pocket sits in the vertical dovetail it’s fully home at the top). If this doesn’t cure it, try adding a shim of micro strip (about 10thou thick, about 1/8” long) into the pocket under the coupler (4). So there’s before (5) and after (6).
     
    Other issues can be when trying to pull a rake of vehicles ove the uncoupling magnet and they keep uncoupling when you don’t want them to. Kaydees need to be kept under tension to avoid this. What usually causes this is the steel ballast weight being attracted to the magnet and the wagon being too free running or light to prevent this pulling them forward, thus releasing the tension on the coupling. So I remove any steel weights and replace them with lead shot (secured with clear UHU glue or superglue and the coarse shot used is due to being given 3 1kg jars of it) as seen on the lowmac in (1), or these two sea cow ballast hoppers(7). If there’s no space for the shot, add a load (such as this whitemetal TE20 tractor in this dropside) (8). Despite all this, you can still have problems with the steel axles being attracted to the magnet. The way I attend to this is to gently brake the wagon, using slivers of foam core board to rub on the wheel or axle (9).
     
    Anyway, a few more thoughts. As I said earlier, not the best, proper or official methods, but they work for me.
  12. Firecracker
    One of the reasons for my returning interest in the hobby developing into actual model making, was the discovery of Kathy Millat’s tutorials on youtube. One of hers concerned modelling tarmac using textured spray paint. Whilst browsing hobby crafts selection (actually looking for something to match railmatch’s sleeper grime, which turned out to be plasticote’s Matt chocolate) I found a tin of this (1). Plasticote’s textured paint, in stone. Time for a play.
     
    So, this is what I’m aiming for (2) (found on google, from the website of the Haslemere Herald). Take an offcut of mounting board card and give it a coat (3). Leave it to dry and break up the edges with a little glue and Woodland Scenics foam (4). Finally with a posed Oxford Diamond T (5).
     
    Think we’re getting somewhere with this. More playing is required.
     
    Owain
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