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scanman

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  1. scanman

    Anew venture...

    First - thanks for all the supporting comments folks. Glad to be back! Yep, South Tyne hit it in one! Whilst it will do as a working title, I'm going to have to put my thinking hat on... I've paid something of a homage to the Lieghton Buzzard line by naming the woeks unit as 'Rollright Works'. They of course are at 'Stonehenge Works'...
  2. Well, a long time has passed since I last blogged on this forum - and a lot of virtual water has passed under the virtual bridge - some of it quite rough1 The main disruption has (as is usual) age-related health issues. First, I have developed (or rather ' am developing') 'Extemity Tremor' or shaking hands. Annoyingly my left hand (the dominant one) is the worst affected. Whilst it is not yet debilitating it IS time-wasting - particularly when soldering small objects. Second, my eyesight is definitely degrading, some of which is diabetes-related. So the last few months have been spent in contemplation..... Firstly - I can still make models. It just takes a lot longer, and working in the smaller scales is becoming more a trial than a pleasure. Second - it's not going to get better. So the aim has to be to concentrate on achievable results against the day when all I will be able to do is 'play trains'. A change of scale is inevitable -better to start NOW than leave it 'til I'm forced to change! A visit to Leighton Buzzard and the purchase of Leleux's well-illustrated guide actually provided the inspiration. So - 014, or larger? I have already dabbled in 014, and I'm not convinced that for me it has the 'legs' to provide a long-term approach. 16mm? This APPEARED to be the province of Garden Railways, minor engineering and 'out of scale' clearances etc more suited to the conditions likely to be en countered. I had decided that anything I built would have to follow 'normal' - ie standard model railway practices and would be on baseboards indoors. So what conditions have I set myself? First, the layout must be capable of fairly rapid progression. IE kept 'reasonably' small but well-detailed. However, the layout should also be modular, capable of extension using scenic 'boxes' (this with exhibitions in mind). Standards would be - 32mm gauge, using 7mm wheels - thus providing the finer profiles. The track to be hand-built, using rail held to wooden sleepers by track-spikes (hence flat-bottom rail). Any pointwork to be electrically-operated from a central control panel, with locos powered by DCC with relevant sound units. All buildings to be based on relevant prototypes. Lastly, the project has to financially self-supporting by disposing of my extensive collection of items in 2-, 4- & 7mm scale. Fortunately aquisitions will be reasonable as the rolling-stock is ~BIG and a huge amount is not required (No 28xx's with 100-wagon coal trains!). So now the practicalities.. First, the track plan. A definite 'back of the fag packet' design The baseboard is from the old 2mm layout which never really got started, and explains the constricted dimensions.The 8' x1'6" (2 boards) concentrates on the 'workshops' area - providing stabling for the 'few'(?) loco's intended, and a 'wagon servicing facility' . The main line' will provide access to storage cassettes and/or other scenes when built. However, that is the limit of 'the dream' thus far as I'm awaiting supplies of rail (Codes 85 & 125) before further progress can be made. The reason for 2 different codes is to check which will accept the wheels! The drawback is of course that code 125 is 'Bullhead'... Whilst waiting for the rail, some rolling stock (well, 3 'Hudson' tipper wagons) have been purchased for evaluation from two different suppliers (more of that in another entry) and a kit of a diesel 'Simplex' ('Arkle)' which ran on the LBLR. again,I'll cover construction/modification of that in another entry. So there we are. At least I'll avoid joining the 'pipe and slippers' brigade for a while! .
  3. Ahh - the benefits og GWR Standardisation
  4. Body only wanted - livery not important! No reasonable offer refused...
  5. Hi Folks - Does anyone have a set of instructions for this kit that they could scan/email me?? I'm completing one for a friend and the instructions are missing. Particularly relevant are the bogies/underframe. Any assistance gratefully received, Regards Ian
  6. Hi Chris - If you havn't seen it already, this one might do! https://www.shapeways.com/product/ZZ3G874YR/gwr-saint-class-locomotive-n-gauge?optionId=57360000 Regards Ian
  7. First - the image that started it all... presented by kind permission of the artist. The barge in the lock is the afore-mentioned 'Unity' and, as can be seen, is a 'wide barge'. She spent her working life plying the 'K&A' between Reading and Bristol carrying carbouys of acid... So on with construction. As previous blogs and other entries have mentioned, I am a firm believer in Knauff 'Floormate'* - sold as an underfloor insulation sheet about 250mm wide, 2.5m long and 75mm thick. Fortunately my supplier (Hampshire Insulation')* use it for purposes other than that for which it was designed and have a hot-wire cutter capable of cutting it down to (as a minimum) 5mm thick (if you're prepared to pay for the wastage!). The material itself is a 'high density urethane foam', completely stable, able to be easily cut with a craft knife, razor saw or (when 'her in doors' isn't looking) a breadknife! Obviously it does NOT like impact adhesives (except 'Limonene-based' ones) and PVA has an extended drying time if layering. However 'Gorilla Glue'* works a treat! For this project I used an offcut of a 30mm-thick board (it is only 600x240mm after all!), marked out the upper pound and lock as one unit, cut it out and dropped it by about 4mm, re-attaching it with the afore-said 'Gorrilla Glue' The lower pound was treated slightly differently in that it was cut from another offcut (hence the different colour) at 15mm thickness. When the upper pound/lock was set, the 'lower pound' was marked out and removed, then the new insert glued into place. The last view shows the end-view with the different water- and land levels clearly displayed. The prototype had a 'fall of over 2m so the differing thicknesses work well. Also on view is the first length of 'easitrack' - one & a bit more to go! When set, the board will be set into 6mm ply walls - this will take the 'hangers-on' like the lighting unit and fiddleyard cassettes. * the usual declaration - my only connection is as a thoroughly satisfied customer! Regards Ian
  8. Okay, what CAN you do in a space only 600mm by 240mm?? When the idea was first mooted as a 'Challenge' for the 2mm Associations 'Diamond Jubilee' in 202, my first thought was 'Not much' - even in 2mm, and I made my thoughts plain on the 2mm 'Virtual Area Group'.... However, I am also a member of a local photographic club - who for one of IT'S challenges this year, the subject is 'Transport'. Thinking of THAT I remembered a painting by a member of the 'Guild of Railway Artists' entitled 'Saints & Sinners'. The scene depicted a double-track line bounded on one side by a picturesque village and on the other by a canal with a lock... No indication of the location EXCEPT in the lock was a barge named 'Unity' and the builder 'Robbins' 'Honeystreet' visible on the transom. Now I know a little about that barge - in fact I helped measure its sister in the 'Purton graveyard' in Gloucestershire! (http://www.friendsofpurton.org.uk/Vessels/Harriett.htm) The 'Unity' plied between Reading and Bristol via the 'Kennet & Avon Canal' - so my powers of deduction led me to use 'Google Earth' to find the location - (at this point, if it sounds familiar to some RM Web readers - it is - it was the subject in the '2011 Challenge'! Unfortunately due to an 'Annus Horriblis' I never got to complete what would have been a '3D' interpretation of the scene a la Jack Nelson...) However, as a location for a 'Transport' image it has great merit - - I just need a better subject (this image was taken within two minutes of arriving at the location on Bank Holiday Monday) and that was the only barge seen the whole afternoon! HOWEVER all was not lost... What a location for a model with a very limited footprint! As shown in the GoogleEarth' image, the subject has its own boundaries - the road, the canal and the two bridges. Even then, to squeeze it in will require some selective compression between the two bridges... The one thing that cannot be shortened is the lock itself. It has to be 200mm long (100'). The other requirements of the Challenge are - it must be to 2mm finescale standards (obviously) and include ONE working point... Another problem - there is no pointwork at this location.. However, neither is there a station - so now it will gain one. 'Little Bedwyn' halt, complete with a siding on the 'up' line for local farm traffic etc. The 'halt will limit the length of the platform - '48xx' loco + autotrailer, (providing an 'all stations' service') or (in later years) a 2-car DMU service for the same. Interspersed will be 'Halls' & Saints' on secondary mainlime services (updated to HST) and 28xx and heavy deisels on their respective period frieghts. FORTUNATELY the off-scene are is NOT limited in length! Meanwhile the lock will feature barge 'Unity' (of course), or modern-day house-boats dependent on the period depicted. So all this in about 21/2 years. Wish me luck! Regards Ian
  9. Well done Pete - and a credit to the Association. Are you entering 'Thurso' in the 'Diamond Jubilee Challenge'?? Regards Ian
  10. By the time the EU get round to certifying it, the UK may well be out. Much easier dealing with ONE government than twentyeight!
  11. I DID find the 3D button and the render looks great! Let me know when it's on the market & I'll definitely have one (or two!) Nice work (again) Chris Regards Ian B
  12. Something like this...? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/108310-darkly-labs-emblaser-affordable-laser-cutter-review/?p=2376233 If I can help, pm me - all I need is a dimensioned drawing/good image. Regards scanman
  13. Moving on with the scenics.... The Cattledock (and end-loading bay). Simple job - infill the track with 'granite setts', allowing for a drainage gully. Good 'ole S E Finecast - commendably thin, so no problem with flangeway clearance, but laid on a piece of 20 thou, painted black down the centreline, and 20 thou thicknessers on the edges to provide a slope to the gully. The client will add etched grilles to the gully... Also noticeable now - the brick walling to the cattledock! The loco-shed... The area behind the shed was first ground-painted with tube acrylics as per the the last entry, and left to dry (whilst I got on with the cattledock!) The ground was then covered with flocking applied with my (misbehaving) 'Flockit' (the on/off button spends most of its time stuck in the 'off' position!). I also laid a very fine flock - hence the unprototypical 'billiard-table' appearance! Oh well, first job next time! The area in front of the shed had been suitably 'darkened' - then, with the 'shed temporarily positioned (it has to be removable as the baseboard hinges backward) some suitable bush/weed combination was fixed in front to hide the gap. This will have additional flocking & ground cover added to it a la blackberry bush! The 'bush' is actually material used by dress-makers and soft-furnishing people as 'stuffing' in cushions and shoulderpads etc. It is a kind of polyester wool that comes only (as far as I am aware) in white. However, I overspray it with grey (Halfords car primer) top & bottom to kill the white then further spray colours (from the military modelling fraternity) are used to represent the framework of the bush. Having got the basics, the remainder of the 'foliage' is added using lightly brushed-on adhesive and combinations of flock and other ground cover. The area is beginning to come together now, with the 'ID Backscenes' really adding depth to the scene. Stop-blocks With the working day coming to a close, just time to detail in a couple of the stop-blocks using the principles applied above (although in all examples there is a LOT more to do...) Last job was to start adding complementary cover to the platform surfaces - which had previously received a coat of 'Vallejo Stonewall Grey'. Individual slabs will be picked out in various shades of grey & beige etc - but that will take a couple of visits to finish! The observant amongst you will notice the red and black sockets in the engine-shed. The client has also been busy adding lighting units to some of the structures - with more to follow) - so I couldn't resist this last shot as the sun sets slowly on the working day! TTFN!
  14. Cheers Nick - He's certainly happier with the progress now!
  15. For the last two years there have been moments of elation, more often outweighed by moments of frustration (usually electronics related!) However, the last couple of months has seen real progress, with the trackwork finally working properly and being ballasted. This was done using two colours of 'N Gauge' ballast (to represent the LBSC's shingle ballast obtained from 'The Crumbles' near Eastbourne) mixed and laid dry with 'Cascamite' powder adhesive. A good soaking with a fine misting spray and then leave to set! However, the baseboard still looked really 'bare'.... So yesterday we began to rectify that! During the day the platform (previously surfaced with 'SEFinecast Paving') was painted -currently in 'Vallejo Stonewall Grey' (which over this sort of area begins to build its own variations in hue). The turntable pit was also edged with the same material - the 'slabs' being individually-laid to follow the circumference - once the adhesive was dried they were treated to match the platform. Ground-cover next... The baseboards had originally been painted a light grey to both stabilise the MDF and to assist setting-out. A couple of weeks ago I added a little texture using a slurry of 'EasiFill' (a finishing skin for plasterwork - and at £18 for a 5kg bag I've enough to last me the rest of my modelling life!). I also mix in a good dollop of PVA adhesive along with water to activate the product. ('Dollop' is a technical term I often use when cooking!) So now to kill all that white... By first painting it (section by section) with white emulsion - I usually use the cheaped available, but not having any these boards are painted with 'Dulux Diamond White (no expense spared here!) Whilst the paint is wet (hence doing it in sections) colour was finally added with artists acrylic in tubes. I use a pallette ranging from burned sienna through ochre to sap and olive green. You would expect the white paint to make the finish very 'bland' - but the artists acrylics are very powerful and not much has to be used (only small dollops this time!) to achieve the effect. So why use the emulsion? first, being water-based it will bind with the previously-laid plaster. it also takes up the acrylic paint and (importantly) acts an extender for the acrylic. If the acrylic was laid directly on the plaster, it will be very quickly absorbed and not go very far! So by the end of the day the majority of the bare board now carries colour - which will provide a suitable base for the surface finishes to be applied on the next visit. So then it will be out with various flocking materials applied with my trusty 'Flockit', and other goodies!
  16. This blog is a bit like a 'bus service... Nothing for ages then two come along at once! Initially the goods shed was intended to be built of brick, using the prototype at Baynards as a guide - (Image from client) However, the clien, during a discussion re the building pointed out that the LBSC also built some goods sheds in wood - and whilst the later building on site WAS brick-built, in the period being modelled (1840-70) there was a good chance the structure would have been built of wood, as the original engine-shed and station building were so constructed. In discussion with him we decided on a planked exterior on a wooden frame - very similatr to the engine shed. So I put away the 'SEFinecast English bond' and it was off to Alton Models for a supply of 'Evergreen' 'Novelty siding' (I have loads of their orduct suitable for the framing!) Once the frame was built (which was not difficult!) it was clad in the 'Novelty Siding' - then spray-painted black, with ochre for the wood framing - The client intends to add internal lighting so its worth the effort to create a fully-framed roof - and progress is proceeding now on that front. The roof will eventually be slate-covered, and of course the internal dock has to be added. Brickwork will also creep in, as it will sit on a brick foundation. Regards Ian
  17. Hi - It doesn't really matter - the subsequent layers hide the initial gloss coat - which in any case is only applied where the transfers are applied. I don't apply a complete side as a transfer - they are cut into individual sections - main/part of the main logo, return location, tare weight etc. Fiddly but it avoids larger deformation caused by wagon strapping etc. Hope this helps, Regards Ian
  18. First -my thanks to those of you who responded both here and on the VAG regarding the brake systems, Details duly noted for subsequent builds! Right - on with the story... With a competition coming up, and the necessity of some 'P.O.' wagons, I decided to batch-build some from 'Association' kits. Two variants (5- and 7-plank) were planned. The kits are very good, being in two parts - a pack of bodies and a separate pack with chassis in etched brassl The usual small tools were used... I had been recommended by two contributors (and veteran 2mmSA members) to build & detail the chassis 'in the flat'. I thought I could see some pitfalls in that - but they might be overcome by the use of jigs to hold everything steady so - The first jig allows the insertion of the axle-bearings into the w-irons thus - where the bearings are held in location by the merest trace of solder-cream and a dab from a hot (375C) iron - As I expect to have several jigs over time, it makes sense to be able to identify them! Now for the rest of the detail - solebars, axleboxes etc. To hold it steady another jig (simply four 2mm wire rods) were inserted adjacent to the original jigs, passing through holes in the chassis - The third jig was the easiest of them all - a cocktail stick - -for making the axle-boxes - which fold up on three parts. Having made four - and folded up the two-layer solebar overlays using my trusty 'Hold n Fold', it was time to put it all together - Et voila - all done 'in the flat' - Following the advice acknowledged above, simple one-side' brake gear was then attached, Just four more to make... When all were complete, they were cleaned of excess solder (a beauty of this solder cream is that it can be removed with a fibreglass brush). A swim in the ultrasonic bath, a dip in 'Acidip) and a plunge into 'Nickel-black', followed by a warm dry on the coffe-pot heater(!) and the chassis were ready - The bodies were a fairly simple matter, bearing in mind they are styrene and respond well to solvent adhesive. On then to the liveries. The 'Odiham Branch' of course never existed in real life. So an internet search revealed the names of a couple of coal-merchants in the area who might have owned a small fleet. Of course there were also the major coal-factors who would supply smaller concerns. The airfield would of course demand other 'govermint owned' wagons. Next port of call was a well-thumbed series of 'The Modellers Sketchbook of P.O Wagons' and several liveries suggested themselves. But how to create them? In this scale and lack of steadiness in the hand -plus time restraints - led me to creating my own waterslide transfers. First job was to paint the wagons in the relevant base-colour. At the same time paint swatches were put on a sheet of paper and then scanned into the computer - at the same time scanning in a set of wagon-sides. Using an 'image-handling' program ('Paintshop Pro') the scanned wagon-sides were copied several times and then 'flooded' with the relevant base-colour. With me so far? Good! Next job was to import the 'jpeg' into a 'Desk Top Publishing' program ('CorelDraw' Essentials) and create the liveries... I then printed them on 'Crafty Computer Paper' - who also do 'white'. - From there it was a 'simple' decaling job (trimming the decals as required. 'Simple'? First 'gloss' the wagon and let it dry. Apply the decals using 'Microsol' and let them dry... Apply a satin varnish (I use 'Purity Seal' from 'Games Workshop') and let it dy.. Then apply A matt varnish (I use 'Testors Dullcote' in a VERY well ventilated area!) and let THAT dry! Why the additional layer of satin? I find that applying 'Dullcote' over a bare decal leads to it crazing... Others will choose a different route - but this works for me - Ahh yes - the Competition... RESULT! (I even created the logos on the shields using layered acrylic and my laser-cutter!) Right - next job... (but not in 2mm!)
  19. I've been using 2mm 'Depron Foam' for underlay for the last couple of years (3mm in 7mm). A dense urethane foam - goes down flat and stays flat. Use a 'foam' type adhesive SPARINGLY, and weight it down with 9mm ply leftovers. As with everything it has a drawback - don't linger with the soldering iron....
  20. My intention was to place passengers in the coaches - however there is a dearth of 'Victorian Era' seated figures! My client pointed me to the range created by Andrew Stadden, and I selected and ordered the relvant set from his web-site. Within an hour of placing the order Andrew phoned me in person, very apologetic that there would be a weeks delay in the figures as he was going off on holiday the next day! He offered to return the money - or if I cared to wait he would include an extra five figures. Not wishing to decline a very generous offer I elected to wait - but also informed him of their destination.... 'Ahh' he said 'You could probably use Mr Stroudley'... I'd not seen this figurine in the range but, a week later a package arrived - including Mr Stroudley! The '5&9' instructions mentioned that customers complained to the 'LBSC' management about the limited headroom in the coaches, stating that a 'man wearing his '12 and sixpenny' could risk damaging it'. Andrew obviously has his proportions correct! It only remains for me to thank Mr Stadden publicly for his generous offer and to praise the detailing in his figurines! (www.acstadden.co.uk)
  21. Morning everyone - a quick (?) question (which I've just posted on the 2mmVAG as well). I'm currently building a rake of 'PO' wagons based on the 2-327 chassis. The etch comes with three variants of brakes - Type 'A', which I can understand, as it is the 'usual' type of one-side double-shoe system. However types 'B' & 'C' are less than clear in their application. As there are two etches of each - both with different-sized locartor pegs, I take it these were twin-side/single shoe applications, OR were they used in conjunction on both sides (i.e. one wheel having a type 'B' and the other having a type 'C' - which is feasible given the peg locators). I've checked all the usual sources but cannot find any answer either model (or preferably) prototype. Any assistance gratefully received. Regards Ian (PS - 'blow by blow account' is to follow (you have been warned!).
  22. Ahh - you've discovered something that most modellers take a lifetime to find - 'A man's gotta know his limitations'! Regards Ian
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