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Tomathee

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  1. Thanks very much that's cleared up a lot of queries. I'll report back once I've done the work.
  2. Hi guys, managed to get hold of a blue LNER Mallard (R2339) as per request of my son and it being his favourite since he got into trains beyond Thomas & Friends. Went to ebay and struck lucky on a detailed version within collection distance, saw it running there and I've run it at home however there's a few of the delicate fiddly/dangly bits missing that I've now come to addressing. Granted it's for a 4 year old so a fair chance of further rough handling but I'm happy to replace what I can for now as part of my enjoyment whilst we have a joint hobby. So I've taken some pics of where the obvious issues are and I also have some photos from a review to go on, along with the Hornby service sheet and general instructions for an A4, but being far from expert please add anything else I've missed.... First the tender, I've learned that these are brake rods, one side is missing and one is partly detached. I'm not sure if the tabs can be glued back into the holes and are too fragile to take much trying so I've looked into replacements, which come as a set for each side along with the chassis bottom, so if I replace I might as well just replace the lot instead of gluing. Only issue there is with the chassis bottom there is a wire that threads through a hole that presumably I'd have to cut to remove the old one, and solder once threaded back through the new one, which would be a pain as I don't have an iron as yet. On here I had to straighten the bottom most handle, and I've straightened the second from bottom as far as I dare without breaking, assuming the similar looking one at the top is to aim for, everything else seems in order? Finally at the other end it's missing the coupler, I believe it's an NEM type, and the slot was there but the actual hook etc not so. I've seen what look like the correct replacements in the local shop but by Bachmann, are they all interchangeable? (Could be a stupid question if NEM as I understand is a universal idea). At the front, I thought the hook(?) on the left should be vertically straight rather than diagonal, fortunately I looked at the review photos and it seems that is correct as appears. The decorative coupling seems ok but I'm not sure what the thing above covering the number 4 is, doesn't appear on the photos I looked at, maybe should be hanging down attached to the coupler? Seems like there should be something mounted above the same number 4 however it's missing and I believe not an individual part I could replace. Similarly on the left and right in the blue areas there are tabs where something was, or a detail part should go but I can't find anything, might be a headlight but no info on parts, is this where a better third party version might come in? The little black thing in front of the whistle I believe is straightened out correctly now. Again brake rods are missing, there's a stray bit of plastic hanging near a wheel which I can't tell where it should be. Hopefully come out if I get replacement rods. There's a lubricator/speedo referred to on the service sheet which I'd never heard of before. Seems there should be a long rod from the steps to the back wheel which is missing and something on the wheel, as for the lubricator(?) I can't figure out where it should be. The part that is there, horizontal under the valance seems to sit more under it than the review photos I saw? One final somewhat odd issue, not related to missing parts, is occasionally when I pick it up to look at and put back down, the front drive wheels don't sit on the track. There's a spring on the bogie which may be lifting it up? Hesitant to mess with it as sometimes it sits down fine, hard to see in the pics but it has a definite movement when pressing on the roof. Apart from that any other issues you notice on the pics let me know, or anything else to look out for. So far in my basket I'm looking at; Tender chassis bottom (X9331) Loco chassis bottom (X9326) NEM Couplings (X9289) - subject to Bachmann ones being incompatible, can get those from the local shop and do my bit Assembly bag for drain cocks (X5180) Speedo cable (X9338) Lubricator (X5275) Screw link coupler (X5069) Appreciate any advice or help, once I get all the parts together that I'm going to have it to bits for replacing, I also have this to clean out. I'm not sure if it been part of a 'loco stored in a field' diorama or poor effort with the scatter.... Many thanks Tom
  3. First railway show I've attended although I've done several plastic modelling shows which are similar in nature. Many fantastic layouts and even those outside the 00 I've started in I could appreciate the work and take inspiration from them. I'd like to mention Burnham as it's so close to what I'd aspire to achieve even half of with an end to end layout of my own - era/trackplan/scenery/buildings/operation and so on. Being new I could have maxxed credit cards and alsorts on locos and all but I changed approach to only getting stuff that I couldn't get from the local shop when I need it, and only bits that will definitely get used. That and the fact I haven't fully committed to an era yet meant an engine shed kit from Freestone models was my only main buy, looking forward to try a different brand of card kit out. One area to comment on would be the food, the burger seemed to be choice of the day and when I was in the area around lunchtime and queuing the kitchen seemed to struggle with keeping up, by the time they had caught up with everybody waiting it was nearly empty again. Otherwise excellent and going by the leaflets it will be back next year.
  4. Well done for making the trip, the layout looked great!
  5. To mop up from the previous thread, leg braces awkward due to differing methods depending on if it meets up with the framing or not, and if I go through the thinner edge of the leg into the brace or have to go through the brace into the leg on the thicker side. Seems to have been worth it as they have been solid so far. Not sure if horizontal bars are along the correct sides, might try the leg braces first next time and see if they do the job by themselves. Next up was positioning, as you'll see the room isn't square, leaving a triangle of unused space in the far corner, railway or otherwise. It's no small deal, there's a rough plan further down but it's approx half of a 4'x2', or half of the smaller baseboard previously built. I had two options, both of which left the far corner empty. It came down to which appeared to take up less space, which reduced potential friction from the domestic authorities. The far corner would be perfect for additional railway as it wouldn't cost any extra space into the room, however with the current board width it is unreachable to do any work with any barely in the case of basic rescuing derailments. I've got a few ideas but they'll have to wait for an if/when we expand and get an open centre and cut down the reach. The boards were held together with the same coach bolts as before, with a clamp and some wood holding them level whilst tightening them. I've also stopped using the latches and taken off the far one so the board can go a bit closer to the wall. They're a good idea but I didn't find it easy to get them in so they'd hold the boards tight enough, probably good as a joint effort with another method of joining boards for temporary setups though. Next up was to get a basic layout going again, which was duly done As well as the set we'd given him for Christmas one of his great uncles had added another starter set along with two track packs, so there was soon demand to add in all of that. I duly complied, wanting to use the trackmat needed some jiggery pokery as the marked out plan doesn't quite fit on a board this size. It was easily fixed through and the mat glued down, annoying bubbles included despite various attempts at rolling and flattening. Which brings me to the end of the board and track section with version 1 as above. As of today that hasn't changed in the two months since I got to that stage. Nearly all of the time I've had for modelling since has been spent bringing old locos back to life, which I might do as the next post. Other bits of note are some grass mat in the corners and a card kit of a cottage, which I'll put together with some of the ideas I've been having on what to do next. Thanks as ever for reading
  6. Don't like nitpicking but poor email from rails to add City of Edinburgh to the £129.50 deal. Advertised as City of Birmingham in the title and Duchess of Edinburgh in the blurb... Available until noon tomorrow by the way
  7. Between my following the link to the donation page at £92k and faffing to guess and eventually reset my password it had jumped to £102k, lo and behold Sir Rod just beat me to it, fair play to him!
  8. Onwards with the backlog of photos and notes.... This part I'll cover putting the temporary Christmas layout (which I've called version 0) on to legs (v0.5) and if I'm still awake tweaking it to the current plan as it stands today (v1). If I can get that far then I'm up to date with the layout and there's just a few side pieces to write up my ramblings on, then I can start looking to the future in earnest. With the end of Christmas and the lounge returning to its normal furniture arrangement the layout didn't really have the space without encroaching on seating space. It had been a definite success and stayed in place for the duration, rather than the anticipated need to move it out of the way a few times to allow other activities. Here is its next temporary home whilst I planned how to add legs. It now sits in the spare room, which includes the standard junk and fruits of hoarding. One benefit of the layout being floor-bound for a number of weeks was forcing some decluttering, however this promptly halted once the extra space under the newly raised layout came into existence... I had spent some time looking into the legs and hadn't really found a perfect solution. Many were geared towards portability which I didn't need, or trestle supports which I wasn't sure would take the potential leaning and handling of a four year old. So I ended up largely making it up as I went along. Obviously starting with the legs, then a horizontal between the legs and then some diagonal bracing between the legs and board/frame. Testing as I went along I did see the difference in stability through each stage and I think this part I'd keep the majority of the idea for any future board construction as it is solid. I wanted to make them both as complete 'tables' so they could stand alone if I had to move them around the room, or if I expand and as I think will happen the larger board is cut down to smaller lengths. Starting with the larger board I added the legs, For these I used 38x63mm CLS. It seemed to work out cheaper than other options and the rounded edges I think are nicer. Square edges on the frame are a must I think, to help with keeping it square and to avoid a 'cranny' all the way around but the legs don't have that requirement. I used more 50mm screws here, figured I should use two from each side to reduce any movement, the formation in the second pic seemed the only way to avoid any running into each other. As expected - very wobbly. Next up was the horizontals. This is where my technical knowledge reaches its limit, most things I read/saw had two, however it wasn't much sturdier than without any, so it seemed like four would be better. However I didn't really want to do that as it would hinder access to the much needed storage underneath, so I went with two and looked at another idea I had bubbling around, which I hadn't gone into too far as I knew it would be more difficult than if these did the job. These are from the same 27x44mm used for the board frame, I had plenty left over and the wood for the legs was probably too thick to use here. So the next thing I wanted to add was bracing between the legs and frame/board. I had been wondering if the last step would make it stable enough as this needed angled cuts and more accurate measurement and so on. Because I have no faith in my skills of description I'll put a photo of the end stage and work backwards; I started with one brace on each corner, can't remember if it was the type on the left or right hand side, whichever was opposite direction to the horizontals from earlier. This stopped any wobbling in the direction they were installed however some remained in the other (making me further question the benefit of the horizontal bars). Usual 27x44mm, on the right hand brace there are two screws through the leg into it, at the top there are two down through the baseboard into it, one through the outside of the frame and one through the inside brace, so its held in place from three sides. These were a bit of a pain to get right using a saw and mitre block, the bottom was fine as its a single line but at the top there are two, and shaving a bit from one side was impacting on the other, so it took a lot of trial and error, and although I could use a rough template each one was slightly different. The left side was a bit easier as it doesn't butt up to the inside frame and need the extra flat edge creating with the mitre, I could have done it that way but the bottom joint with the leg would have been quite far down and the brace take up a lot of space, causing the previous mentioned issue of access to underneath. These had their own issue that they were on the thicker side of the legs, rather than using excessively long screws I opted to drill and countersink through the brace into the leg. With various bits held in place with clamps I was able to get things screws in relatively well aligned. A selection of photos follow to show various stages... I decided to replicate this for the smaller board as far as possible, there might have been different requirements given the smaller area and weight but I'm not in a position to do any sort of workings on what is required and how that varied from one of these boards to the other. I followed a similar method, a couple of changes being the horizontals along the shorter side, and the braces were able to be set such that one side joined to the frame and the other joined with its opposing number on the other side without blocking too much of the underside. Some photos to illustrate, they paint much more than my poorly written words; Going to call it a day for now, these seem to take longer than expected to write out. Back soon, thanks for reading if you've lasted this long
  9. A word on the excellent service from the ebay seller in my original link. I ordered on Sunday night and they had arrived Wednesday morning, including a bank holiday. Wasn't able to find a similar part anywhere, if I got desperate I could have probably used regular wire and created a join, which would have meant buying a soldering iron and so on. After a loose fit test run to make sure I was on the right track I had to slightly widen one of the connectors to fit on the non-power bogie. It's a snug fit but impossible without the adjustment. Then it was just a case of joining the wires and putting the body back on. Fortunately the connectors are such that they hold together without any soldering or other thought needing to be put towards joining them. If/when I get a soldering iron I might go back to it and solder the join, or remove the connectors to keep as spares and join the bare wires. For now it is as shown with tape wrapped around to avoid and trouble. Thanks again for reading and the help
  10. Thanks Pete, correct on the rubber tyres. I searched all the Class 37 and 47 service sheets you suggested but none had a similar setup or end connectors. I even went as far as browsing all of the service sheets for any that sounded like a loco with two bogies that might need a similar cable but no joy. I ended up on what must be an old reference service sheet on a third party site which was for a Class 91 (here for the trail - http://www.hornbyguide.com/service_sheet_details.asp?sheetid=79). This included a cable with the same part number as that in the ebay link I put in the original post (X1367), however the other cable shown wasn't available anywhere and the available one seems the shorter of the two and possibly not long enough to go from bogie to bogie as it was originally intended to go from bogie to the roof. So I've ordered two, assuming I'll be able to just join the middle up and wrap some tape around it so it doesn't come into contact with anything it shouldn't. Will report back on progress. Cheers again
  11. Hi folks, new week new problem. Son has rescued another old loco from his grandparents that he expects resurrecting to full working order. I've replaced the springs and brushes and the motor works when contact is made directly, however not when I try and power it through the track. Looking at the service sheets 208B seems the correct one - https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/downloads/view/download/item/443 . I believe it is the older 'produced in the UK until December 98' page rather than the 'China from January 99'. Now I vaguely remember a cable inside however at some stage during childhood that has since disappeared (along with the springs, hence replacing them before I could even test anything else. I suspect me or brother have bodged a previous repair job in our junior years). The pantograph also broke off long ago, however I don't remember it ever being one that raised, rather a moulded in the lowered position plastic one, but there was a switch on the roof (it was part of a trainset so I assume a more basic version?). Given that it doesn't and never has picked up power through a pantograph I'm not sure which route to go. The sheet seems to show a cable from the non-power bogie to the pantograph and another from that to the power bogie, however there is nothing left in the roof for them to connect to, metallic or otherwise. I'm also unsure how power would go through the non-power bogie, as it just seems to be a solid lump, unless the whole thing conducts electricity? Easiest way I guess would be if the bogie with the motor did it all without a cable but I assume that's not possible. Naturally the pantograph leads (X8278) referred to on the sheet aren't available anywhere. I found this which looks like it would fit however is just one cable - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X1367-Hornby-TRIANG-PANTOGRAPH-WIRE-CLASS-86-90-91-R7B/152352527045?epid=2102115449&hash=item2378eb12c5:g:RVsAAOSwImRYTcOh . Would that work as a direct link from the non-power bogie to one of the 'thingys holding the spring in place' (if I follow where a cable went to on the James loco), and avoid the need to have two cables that as mentioned will have nothing in the roof to connect to? Also there may be what looks like a capacitor missing, though I'm not sure and have no clue if this is part of the problem or should be in place. Again not available anywhere and I assume they have some value that will vary that I have no clue on, so advice appreciated as that sort of thing is even more out of my comfort zone than replacing springs and oiling etc. I've added a couple of pics below that might help with my rambling explanation... Many thanks Tom
  12. Thank you all for the kind words. The carpentry is ok if I have a clear set of instructions and I'd be happy to build more boards, there were many threads on here and I asked a set of questions before starting so I had a good idea of how, it's areas such as distance between bracing, to not leave it too weak or go overboard with too much, that I needed the guidance on. And it was somewhere on here that i had the suggestion of building the frame onto the board, rather than trying to build the frame and add the board later, as it likely wouldn't have been as good a fit given my skill level. As part of the next update when I get round to it I'll include the legs, which I've possibly over-engineered because I didn't have a lot to go on and had to think of mostly for myself, many of the guides are suited for portable or exhibition layouts which I didn't need to account for. Getting something running is/was a must, a four year old soon loses interest when nothing is happening and I think either no or a very short downtime is going to be a leading priority for any work that requires a halt to trains running. Likewise as long as this is being done 'for him' (I'll cross the bridge of what happens if/when he loses interest if/when I get to it regards disposal, downsizing and so on) then continuous run is another hard and fast rule for future planning. I've been clearing space and trying to space out ideas in my head, although at the moment the majority of any time I get for layout related work is going on resurrecting the old locos me and my brother had, which he keeps finding at my mothers house and bringing home in anticipation. I haven't really come up with a prototype, although it's always on my mind. Mallard is his favourite in LNER blue, which I'm weighing up with not particularly liking the teak coaches that I'd be budgeting for before I limited to that area. If it was up to me I think I'd go for a fictional/fantasy setup of former LMS/LNER in BR colours as I think I could live without the other two. However given what is being brought home for me to fix up I don't think it will come anywhere close, last week it was oiling a James, this week I've been ordering new brushes for a Class 91.... On the name I went with Doddington, drawn from Great Doddington, which I either drive home through or is on one of my running routes, however I've since found Doddington as a place in Lincolnshire, so apologies for any confusion.
  13. First, a word on naming.... Around 11pm last night I realised I had been staring at a similar page that I am currently, that of a new topic. However it had been blank for approx 90 minutes as I pondered a title/layout name before proceeding to the body of the post. As if procrastinating didn't take up enough of my time I now sat running through infinite methods and ideas for names - various combinations of real/semi real/fantasy places, shortened and merged family member names (among others in my sleep deprived state Kirthojac, anyone?), words that the four year old it is all being done in aid of would find familiar whilst suiting a passing resemblance to being a real place, and so on. On the way up the stairs tonight to revisit starting this thread I decided to simplify and just shorten the name of the nearest village to where I live. It is suitable in being unquestionably real, in my mind it works with various words added that may come in and out over time as it develops, it didn't have a real line or station passing through at any point, so I can do what I want without any kind of comparison being drawn by myself or others, consciously or otherwise. So hats off to those with creative names for their layouts that give the reader an idea of what they'll be looking at, or simply draws us into reading the thread, it seems to be a skill in itself! Welcome to my layout thread, given my skill level and pace of work I won't be setting the world ablaze with updates and content. I wanted to do this partly as a diary for myself, I've taken pictures and made notes along the way, some of which I'll need to refer back to if I come to expand, and some of which will be nice to look back on as hopefully the layout improves. So I wanted to put it into some sort of order, in one place. If it manages to help others or provide a worthwhile read for anyone than all the better. A brief history, as a child I had very much a trainset, it was a bare board that stood up against the wall at the end of most evenings, with an assortment of everything from Thomas & friends, Intercity 225 and at least one each of steam and diesel. Fast forward and I have a son, now age 4, he's been through the plastic Thomas track, the wooden Brio/other brand track and is way more into trains on the whole than I was at his or any other age. Several months ago I started on the idea of getting him a trainset ready in time for Christmas, I had my doubts re. 4 year old vs. delicate model train related items and the risk of them being treated similarly to the wooden stuff he was into at the time. So I decided I'd keep it simple and cheap in the beginning, to see if he was interested and also to see whether I'd need to be replacing trains and trucks etc more regularly than was economically viable. The first part of the thread deals with the temporary layout he was given for Christmas, and then I'll get into making it a permanent feature in the spare room. Hopefully within a few posts I'll catch up to the present day and can start talking about plans for the future, so here goes.... The size of the initial layout was determined by the space on the living room floor. We wanted to have it there for Christmas morning so he could come down and play with it, show the grandparents and all that. The board ended up being slightly smaller than ideal at 5'x4'. I decided I wanted to add bracing from the outset, although it was going straight on to the floor I knew that inevitably it would get walked over and I wasn't sure what that would do in terms of bending and so on. Because of the weight this would add I decided to do it in two parts, to aid in carrying it up and down stairs at various stages of building, keeping it hidden, and moving it out of the way if needed. Many layouts seem to use 4'x2' as a standard size so I went for that, as it should be ready made if and when we expand, along with a 4'x3', as a word of caution this was at the limit of being unwieldy and not something I'd repeat if starting over. I had another 4'x3' leftover, I'd asked for 8'x4' in total as a standard size sold, not sure if I could have just had only what I needed, but it's there ready when needed and hopefully will encourage expansion so it doesn't go to waste. It was all 12mm ply from a local company, and at a very similar price to what was available in the chain stores. In terms of bracing, 2"x1" seems favoured so I went for a close match with 27x44mm 'softwood planed square edge'. Untrusting of my carpentry skills I decided to build the frame onto the board, rather than build up the frame and attach the board after. The 4'x2' was naturally easier, gluing and screwing the four outer edges and then making two inner lengths to fit. The 4'x3' I did the same, and then added in further braces through the middle, I sited these such that if future expansion requires the use of 4'x2' this one can be butchered down to the correct width without the bracing being in the way. Also have drilled holes for any future wiring should I get that far. I used 25mm screws for the board and 50mm for joining the frame, along with PVA glue and clamps as far as possible. The boards were given two coats of grey primer/undercoat and then some white emulsion underneath should I need the brightness for any future wiring type jobs. For attaching the boards I wasn't looking for too complicated or expensive of a solution. Following suggestions I went with coach bolts and some latches, to be honest the bolts were probably fine on their own and I think one of the latches was slightly too close so didn't pull tight enough to offer any help. Onwards with the track, following the budget route I picked up a trainset from ebay which included the standard loop plus siding. This however didn't fit on the board as intended and had been known from an early stage. The fully plan could be done in the space which I'll come on to later, however wouldn't have been conducive to the temporary requirement of separating boards. So a plan with shortened straights was used so that straight sections crossed the board joints. After some extensive playing testing all was set for Christmas Eve, which conveniently brings me to a good time to end this part, to be continued. If you've read this far then many thanks, happy to answer any questions or take on board suggestions. I'm very much a newcomer to this and have had several threads asking questions along the way, so any further help is appreciated. Tom
  14. To update, the spare wheel arrived a few days ago and was fitted without issue. I had a practice knocking the axle out of the broken wheel before taking a wheel off the new one for fitting. Haven't perfected getting the correct width between wheels so a couple of trial and error runs were needed but all now seems to be running well. Thanks again for all the help, Tom
  15. Thank you all again for the further replies. I've gone with Ray's suggested part first and will report back once delivered and fitted. On the plus side it runs a lot smoother since being cleaned and oiled, so I'm glad I've dipped my toe in to servicing as there's a few more old models that may see new life on my sons layout. Tom
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