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RobinofLoxley

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  • Location
    The Northamptonshire Uplands
  • Interests
    Plant breeding and Model Railways, in that order

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  1. Track laying looks good, could it do with a clean. Opinions vary but I would run a track rubber over the slow sections. For a small layout the selected cable should be OK. Are the points converted the recommended way with jumpers or do you rely on existing electrical contacts? Point motor have to get their power somewhere, if you suspect you are short of power you could get a separate 12v supply for them, but running 2 locos max (no sound?) you should have power available. Its right about the switches, if you have stall motors you need a continuous power supply not a pulse For individual locos running badly you have to question the setup of the decoder
  2. this might look ok on paper but a lot of the possible routes will be compromised by having to traverse reverse curves across double slips.
  3. I wouldnt worry about adding your bit to the minories thread - I did it and I'm still here. Personally I like the layout, but I will be surprised if anyone appears saying 'Thats exactly like Bristol Temple Meads' or some such. What would be a possibility is a central relief track with a 3 way point allowing access from both platform lines.
  4. probably, but I would like to establish that i can do it on the phone first. Otherwise I'm introducing something new when I havnt got the previous system sorted. I have got the Maintenance app on my laptop but as I havnt tried to use it yet.......
  5. Ok Iain will check that out tomorrow, thanks Would you advise me to reset the dr4018 first?
  6. I am in the same position as the original poster here but I dont seem to have had the same results trying to follow the instructions. I am using for the moment my Galaxy phone to communicate with the Z21. Eight point motors are wired in to the DR4018. I seem to have defined a 'loco' address 9999 correctly, but thats about all. I have done some things, and at one stage the motor on Out1 did move, but thats all. The first step according to the instruction 3.2 instruction 2 is to select the loco 9999, switch it on and off via F0 (light). Theres no other reference to F0, which is a bit irritating. So in 'Steering' I have selected the loco 9999 then deselected it. (there is one other loco identified, which is not on the track, this is selected by default instead. So with 9999 deselected I turn the programming button on (instruction 3) then select CV programming (instruction 4). Its not stated what to do here but i have selected CV Pogramming/POM accessory/Manual, when I am prompted for an address 1-2048. The turnout associated with Out1 has an address of 73. So I entered 73, then selected CV47 and entered the value 6. I noted that at this point the DCC decoder address value was reading 18. I then pressed the programming button so the light went out. I disconnected the power, waited, powered up again but none of the motors show any signs of life. Clearly I'm doing at least one thing wrong so I hope someone can enlighten me. The galaxy isnt that great as it runs on the earliest version of Android that is permitted by the App. It does stop occassionally, but I havnt had any problem so far controlling the single converted loco that I have while I test the sections of track I have laid so far. I know i need a better interface and im planning to get a tablet, jst hasnt happened yet, One of the disadvantages of having a summer hobby separate to the modelling is that I havnt had enough practice with DCC stuff yet to really embed it in my brain. So it was like starting from scratch today.
  7. Mike, Mr Crewlisle appears to be suggesting that the supply of power to the track can be DCC but that accessories can be controlled by other, non-DCC means. This is self evidently true. Its got almost nothing to do with the operational consequences.
  8. There are very few layout locations that dont involve any compromises. I know of only 2 people here, although im sure there are others, with purpose built facilities not size limited (they could be larger if those conecrned wanted them to be).
  9. stock can always be stored in a chest of drawers fitted out for the purpose, or if the layout permits, on slide-outs underneath it. As long as they close fairly dust tight.
  10. dont forget to locate the archery club! Btw the op already mentioned he wasnt keen on a 2-level lift-out section when I proposed the branch went over it. In truth it would have to be a swing in that case; not an easy install. But personally I think that placing the MPD opposite the goods makes a lot of sense for construction and operations, and on the same side as the main station.
  11. A couple of points - although you have talked about stock you would like, there's an assumption that you will build in OO, but you could consider N gauge. It feels like toy size to some people but has advantages in restricted spaces. I take it that you have sloping eaves, in which case things will look very strange if you use the area furthest away from the clear working space. I would see plan 6 v1 as just a doodle in Anyrail. You can use flextrack segments, which are longer and extendable, to give yourself more working capacity. Plan 1 has something in it. The net space you can really use is not as large as the gross
  12. Did you consider 3-way points at the entrance to the 'fiddle yard' left hand end? The highly curved 25/33 degree points I had some trouble with so for my new layout I redesigned to use Streamline turnouts where the sharper radius is about 22 degrees. Also no 'hidden' link between the two halves of the yard.
  13. This was one of the reasons I directed you to trainplayer to discover this. I also think that the branch line that is just a loop on a different level is wrong - you had it right the first time, but why dont you look at running it anticlockwise away from Lyneworth and ending the track somewhere past Millhampton. This gets round the gradient problem. You would have to play with the main station layout but not too much, taking the opportunity to lose the reverse curves on the left at the same time.
  14. Well, potentially this story has a happy ending. I have just done a bit more work and found that actually my old tank engine was no Bachmann after all, despite arriving in a Bachmann box several years ago, but is actually an old Hornby/Triang R051. I researched again and found https://www.hornbytriangspareparts.co.uk/ I had to buy a pack of 10 S2352 conrod rivets and I am now waiting for the postman (woman actually) to deliver them. Assuming that the rivet is the solution and it stops the drive mechansim from locking up, I fully intend to convert it to DCC. Looks a very simple conversion and as it runs and pulls beautifully I hope it will do so post conversion.
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