Moria15

Look forward to seeing you at the show :) Graham

Would like to get an unbuilt version of this if anyone has one please. regards Graham

Thank you Graham

The page for integration goes to a 404 not found making it tricky to link my accounts.. any other options please ? regards Graham

Can someone please identify a link or an email address to find out about these kits... I'm after a 2021 class and whilst I see references to a number of places in the posts, and even a reference to a re-released 2021, I see no way of finding a contact... Beingh in Canada doesn't help as google sometimes refuses to go across the atlantic on searches :) Regards Graham

Awesome, thanks.. I have seen the pic of 4409 in 1920 as per delivered so in my fictional world I’ll assume 4408 was also extended by then to fit my layout. So it may well be that my 44xx is in plain Great Western, but the 45xx when it comes will be in fully lined Great (crest) Western as per pictures in 1914 and not repainted during wartime. Graham

Greetings all. Apologies if what I ask has been answered but I have searched. I think I am going for 4408 as my period is 1919/20 as it is inside pipes and tapered chimney, but I am confused about the paint scheme. In my period should I be looking at fully lined with Great (crest) Western as the livery but the paint on both 4400 and 4408 look like post 22. If so I guess I am going to either have to learn to paint or find a painter :) Regards Graham

Thanks both :) Looking at the circuitry already on the Dapol light bar, it looks like just a cap will do the job. I will try experimenting as such with one out of the carriage, just in case.. don't want to have to replace a coach if the cap goes bang, where a lightbar is an easy replacement :) Regards Graham

Hi all.. I have a rake of Dapol N-Gauge HST coaches with Dapol light bars fitted. They work OK except for some flickering as wheels make or loose contact. Is it possible to just fit caps to the strip to give them some backup (such as the small stay alive caps for locos), or do I also need some sort of circuitry? I don't want to use a full decoder in each coach as I am not planning to switch the lights on or off.. I just want to get rid of the occaisional flickering. Thanks in advance for any help. Graham

I have done a few tt:120 buildings to try the scale. I used Scalescenes 4mm kits reduced by the appropriate % to be 2.54mm to the foot and also slightly reducing the thickness of the cardboard backing. Since I already had some of the 4mm ones, this was a no-entry cost option for me.. but if you don't have any 4mm kits.. theres a couple of free ones on their website. (I have no connection with scalescenes other than a regular customer) Graham

Dunno, am N gauge myself, but I'll be in for a Castle with sound, collet coaches, Pannier with sound, wagons and peco track and buildings when they come out in phase 4/5. Seems like an ideal size to me for the house I am in and by then the N-gauge layout should be as done as it's likely to be. M

Well frankly, I have been considering replacing it ever since the faffing around about supplying the UK after Brexit and the whining about it on their forums and the somewhat dodgy price issues for various countries. I think the next layout will move to something else, even though I am fully invested into TC gold, I'm just getting a bit fed-up with the whole situation with TC. Since I'm starting to play with some stuff for a new layout, I think this has confirmed to me that the change should be now, and I'll re-evaluate how I want to control my toy trains for the future. Regards Graham

This could be an issue for exhibition layouts that are in a hall with no or intermittant connection, of which there are many. Graham

Thanks very much Chris. Lots to think about, but another step forward. Thank you again. Graham

Ian, thanks very much. I was wondering if the coreless ones were tramfabriek ones, so that's answered that. I am DCC so the smallest motor is going to be an advantage, even if by 1mm or so. Unfortunately, I cannot compare the Farish and Dapol as I only have the Dapol one, which oddly enough, I was planning to turn into a saddle tank as well so I guess the body is probably going to get some serious work anyway.... Whilst I model 1920's GWR in N-gauge I'm moving back in time for my first experiments in 2mm and actually a saddle tank is a bit modern for that, but certainly much closer to period :) I may even have to play with outside cranks, but it's to get something built and running... mostly I want to be playing with track that is dual 9.42 and 14mm gauge ultimately with 8' and 9' drivers :) Regards Graham

Hi there.. apologies for a really stupid question.. but was looking at the Pannier replacement chassis kit on the shop site and it says in the instruction sheet 8 or 10mm coreless.. however, when I look at the motors section, there only seems to be 6 or 7mm coreless motors available. I'm actually assuming a 6 or 7mm one would be fine, as long as the shaft is sleeved to the right diameter? In addition, it says the chassis is a replacement for the Farish 57xx... has anyone used it in a Dapol 57xx ? Thanks in advance. Graham

Could just call them a Pile as in Country Pile :) OK I'll go away now. Graham

An Estate :) Regards Graham

3 things I remember about my grandmas washing day when I was a kid. 1) Grandad yelling from outside for help when he got his tie caught in the mangle and couldn't reverse it out because it was all wrapped up in the washing, so Grandma had to cut the tie to free him. 2) My Grandmas deft use of the wooden tongs to give anyone close a swift smack if they weren't behaving, or cracked a comment that she didn't like or felt was disrespectful. 3) She used that big Red and Green mangle till the day she died at 95 years old :) Ho-hum. Graham

Had an excellent time today at Exeter... Busy time at Dawlish Warren... Lovely subdued colouring on Moors View and an excellent chat with @Graham_Muz of this parish about early locos and the possibilities of using 18mm gauge in TT1:120 <innocent smile> Oh, and a special shout out for the food.. I know, odd thing to say about an exhibition, but awesome :) Nice to be able to attend a show again after all these years. Graham

Agree... another way to stop wheel slip on the loco is to have a really thin cardon shaft through to the loco (doesn't have to be a 2mm dia plastic lump like commercial N gauge), and put a gear wheel on one axle. That will stop it since the drive is still loco, but you have all of the tender space for the motor and other gubbins such as decoders etc.. and your loco is pretty much completely open for lots of added weight and even inside motion if you want it. Tender drive doesn't just mean the drive is to the tender wheels, even though it can be. That's an assumption based on Hornby and Airfix "tender drive", and yes pancake motors are not a good motor system wherever they are placed. A couple of pics from the 2mm scale assoc about this.... First the cardon drive example... Secondly, the loco where tender motor mounting was about the only option from Tim Watson, (master loco builder IMHO and if it's OK for him, then I have no issues)... Which has to be one of the best running locos I have ever seen in operation, and yes this is 2mm as well :) . Graham

Don't know if this will help, but i am just completing the Scalescene free hut which I used the shrink-ray on to bring it down to TT1:120 from 4mm and have found that the sizes for cardboard for 2mm are actually prettu much spot on. As an N gauge modeller, I always found the 2mm sizes just a tad large, especially for fold-arounds and the 2.54mm size makes all these just about right :) That is assuming I got my maths right.. my shrink-ray reduction was 63.333% :) Graham

I'm sorry, but what is the issue with the motor in the tender and why is it going backwards? It's no different between having the motor in a diesel and having a brake tender in front of the loco, or having the single powered bogie of a diesel at the rear end pushing the non-powered bogie? It works fine in N gauge, and is still accepted practice by some manufacturers. The problem with some tender drives was the quality of the motor not the fact it was tender driven. Graham

OK I'm confused... I posted about motorbogies.com and @whart57 said that Hollywood foundries was closed so was anyone else selling them. To me that said that the site I was looking at was null and void, so lets clear this up.. Are motorbogies.com with their adverts of 12mm bogies from BullAnt and others still trading and are the motor bogies still available? Regards Graham

Apparently motorbogies.com is part of hollywood foundry which has closed. I have no idea what the current status is because the website says copyright2022 but I was advised on another thread they are closed. I wonder if someone here knows deffinatively whether they still trade? Graham