andyste1

It’s probably worth adding that having just seen some videos of people working with foamboard, it’s dawned on me that I hadn’t entirely removed the paper. While it peeled off easily after wetting, it seems to have left a very thin, smooth matt layer behind (the adhesive used to glue on the paper perhaps?). The foamboard is from Hobbycraft by the way (“Westfoam” brand). It’s this layer that prompted me to ask how to handle corners, as there will not only be a narrow gap between two walls, but the “real” foam at the end of one wall section will also be exposed, with a different texture to the rest of the wall (and won’t scribe in the same way). Perhaps I need to find myself a better brand of foamboard that will allow me to fully strip the coating... This matt layer does provide some interesting effects though, as it “cracks” when you scribe it, resulting in a nice rough/rustic brick effect, with (say) a sharp screwdriver or back of a scalpel, while the blade itself produces a clean, modern brick mortar effect. I’m working in OO by the way.

I’ve been experimenting with foamboard, having removed the paper coating, then scribing a brick pattern into it. I’m pleased with the results so far on small patches, so I’m now ready to move on to constructing a small building. It makes sense to scribe the walls before glueing them together, but I’m not sure how to “finishl the corners. I think it’ll be tricky to continue the pattern across the end of one foamboard piece, then lining it up with the pattern on the next wall. There’s also the join/gap to deal with. Any suggestions? Alternatively, I’ve seen a technique that involves constructing the building first, then applying a thin coat of polyfilla all over and scribing into that once dry. I know this is used for stone walls, but I’m not sure of it’s suitability for brick (i.e. getting an even layer of filler).

I'm planning my first ever layout (N gauge, DC) and am trying to understand electrofrog turnouts. Judging by the way this topic has been done to death on various forums it seems to be a contentious and confusing topic, but I'm still none the wiser after reading numerous articles! The easiest option would be to leave the turnout unmodified, although I understand this has the potential for reliability issues. If I went down this route, would I need to fit IRJs anywhere? I found this article that has a good explanation of how an unmodified turnout works. Looking at how the frog tracks change polarity as the turnout is switched, I assume this will cause a short circuit where they meet the next piece of track. Perhaps not on an unpowered siding, but certainly on the mainline route? I'm planning to use powered turnouts, so if I do decide to modify them, can someone recommend a good article, as many that I've found seem to be overly complicated (and electronics isn't alien to me either!). The clearest explanation I've found so far is this one, but I'm unsure if it's intended for DC, DCC or both, or whether it's applicable to peco turnouts?

Hi, I’m planning my first layout (N scale) and have a question: if I was to lay my track, ballast, etc, then in the future I decide to upgrade the points to powered ones, is it something that can be retrofitted or would it involve lifting the track to install? In an ideal world i realise it is easier to install from the word go, but I’m trying to keep initial costs down. However I’m worried about the disruption involved if i wanted to add such a feature in the future. If I can sneak in a second, similar question: how easy is it to start with DC control and upgrade to DCC in the future?

Hi all, I’m looking to utilise my loft as a hobby/model railway space. It’s a typical loft that goes down to single figures in winter and well over 30 on hot summer days. I was wondering how effective a layer of insulation board on the underside of the rafters would be, as it’s a lot of time and expense if it provides little benefit. (I don’t want to insulate between the rafters too, as you would for a proper loft conversion, as that would be a very costly job). I can always use a heater in winter - it’s the summer temperature that concerns me more. A velux would obviously be a big help but is outside of my budget! Another thought is to only insulate the central part of the roof down to where ther is a series of 4ft vertical timbers approx 7’ out from the eaves (and board these too), effectively creating a room surrounded by loft space. Again unsure of effectiveness against temperatures, and it might just result in a small, even stuffier space. Thoughts?