Bedlington North

No it isnt the point. He has repeatedly quoted using silver grey which he says is too dark, which it would be seeing as the right colour is silver white. If he was able to locate a tin of silver white either as old stock or someone had some then he would be sorted... So it would seem worthwhile him asking or looking for the correct colour first...

You keep referring to the fact you have used silver grey which is too dark, but people in this thread have said that Silver White is the correct colour. So I would suggest you use a tin of that, however your problem may be finding some... For example Railmatch Silver White is their code 240 in enamel. Seems to be out of production. And I can't see an equivalent on Phoenix's website....

Fallacy or not if you look at one of the pictures the OP posted you can clearly see severe silvering. That means the transfers aren't stuck to the model and anything you do after that is a lottery in terms of the transfer sticking. Quite apart from that, silvering looks rubbish and is simple to avoid by using a glossy surface under the transfer. YMMV, but I've never had any issues with transfers of any brand or age when I've applied them over my favourite gloss (Johnsons Klear). See two pics of my own aircraft models - literally no evidence of transfer carrier film and the transfers have "melded" into the models surface nicely. They also accepted a sealing coat of varnish with no problems.....

Just in case you missed it....Did you apply the transfers over a very glossy surface (IE a gloss overcoat after the blue paint)? If you didn't then it looks like the transfers have got air trapped under them (known as silvering) and this obviously affects their adhesion. Once you then put a coat of Dullcote on they may well have shrunk off the surface of the model.

Your transfers look to me as though they have "silvered". This is caused by air trapped under the transfer film. You should apply the transfer over the most glossy surface you can to allow the transfer to grip the surface of the model and exclude air. Are you just applying the transfers directly over the blue paint or are you applying a clear gloss coating of some kind prior to transfer application?

Thanks for the explanation but it's not necessary for me. I travelled on the first day of service and I am well aware of the intent of the service (even though cranks have been regular travellers on the service...) Like I said, their hire of a 37/4 set a precedent and surely if you are going to hire in a last minute replacement to haul Mk3 carriages then it is always preferable to have something with ETH capability in case your other loco fails. Your passengers would very quickly give a hoot on a warm summers day sitting in an airless, hot carriage due to no aircon and no opening windows (droplights excluded). All I meant to say was that they have done it before, therefore it's not impossible to think they might do it again...

But they have already hired a 37/4 from DRS so a precedent has been set. Assuming they wanted the extra expense of loco hire fees...

That's a lovely sympathetic viewpoint there.

To be fair truth is often stranger than fiction. In the 1970s/80s and 90s a very popular British made kit of an R/C yacht had a plastic moulded hull with integral keel. The manufacturer had the modeller add builders cement into the keel cavity and then add water to create the keel ballast. This was the Duplex (then Lesro) 575.

I'd certainly be interested in building a short rake of hoppers from those parts. Say 4 sets. Rather than see the parts melted down.

Like the OP, I have been looking for a donor J94 body yo put an etched chassis under. Hornby bodies seem expensive on Ebay and the Kitmaster version non-existent. I understand that the mould tools were destroyed in a fire at Dapol in the 80s. If you can point out a source for these kits it would be much appreciated...

Its using all first class Mk3's plus a MK2 BSO for non-passenger use and bike carrying AIUI. The Guardian had an articles that (wrongly) stated the "trains were ex InterCity125s" or some such.

3 weeks is hardly the end of the world if it makes a non-running model into a runner....

Ultrascale are already offering a replacement gear service for many RTR models. Including some Heljan models. Those items look like they are from stock, avoid the long lead time. They are willing to make up new gears to customers requirements so that sounds like a better solution than replacing a defective Heljan plastic gear with another potentially defective Heljan plastic gear.... https://ultrascale.uk/eshop/products/CAT015#RTRRG

Did the caption really say "Gratuitous Napier Trash"?????

Even if he had full access to the J94 toolingto make further batches, there's no guarantee they would have been good sellers. Given the inconsistencies in running qualities of the existing models it's likely that he would have lost money on future runs. Or had to pay out more cash upfront to fix the chassis.

I spotted that too and it immediately made me doubt everything else presented as "facts" in that quoted release.

I think it's likely that the camera poles are GRP and thus non-conductive. Should hope so anyway.

Sorry but I did mention the Gaugemaster handheld in my first post in this topic. While I accept that this might properly be called the model W, a quick Google search for Gaugemaster handheld shows the device I was talking about. While you are correct that a version of this model is available with a black fascia plate that incorporates feedback, every online listing of this product I have found has the term "with feedback" in its description. I would suggest that makes it clear which version is suitable for the OP's needs and also very clear which version isn't suitable?

Doesn't PWM make a higher pitched buzzing sound? Is it not more likely to be unsmoothed, rectified AC as this is cheaper and easier (and more likely I'd have thought) to make. The Gaugemaster unit doesn't have feedback. Again it's a simple device!

Do you mean PWM? I'm not sure that the Hornby controller even is PWM. The Gaugemaster handheld is simple and gives relatively fine control and is not PWM.

I usually buy them from Brian in the flesh from his stall at exhibitions, so I have to say, I've never really looked at the part number before. Other threads on this forum relate that Brian can be "variable" in his response to the phone and emails, so if you make contact it would be interesting to hear....!

Rob On the online Shawplan catalogue, the etching shown above is listed as part number "EEDP24-00". Which is confusing as the part number etched into the etching is EEDP25-00! See here: http://www.shawplan.com/extreme_loco4mm.html

Unusual for a 31 to have round buffer heads?

I'll be very happy to support Accurascale as they work their way through the many and varied EE type 3 variants. They've already covered a broad swathe but there's plenty more fish in the sea too. I've been delighted by their choices so far.