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  1. Thanks bike2steam. Looks like I'd be needing to get the saw out if the kit is accurate then
  2. Yes I'll admit it is an odd request. I'm thinking of doing something (not just a straight build) but don't want to say too much as it isn't for me. Sorry to be cryptic. I think from their website Lytchett only cast to order so I doubt they would have one to measure.
  3. Does anyone have one of these and could measure the wheel spacing the body is based on please? I have an idea for one but can't check suitability without going ahead and buying the kit which could be a bit of a waste...
  4. Having used super glue on white metal kits about 20 years ago I found that during their time in store (in a spare bedroom so not subject to temperature changes) most kits have had some parts have decided to disassemble themselves so beware super glue has a 'life' unlike solvent options.
  5. Thanks Hayfield, I've not seen that video, have you got a link? (A quick look on YouTube and I couldn't find it). I've found that soldering works best with a small gap between parts. If a joint is totally flush I put a small bevel on the back edge to give room for the solder. I think a 2mm gap might be too much for solder alone, around 1mm is where it seems to start to get iffy for me as the solder doesn't want to bridge the gap. I use the glass underneath as a way to stop it collapsing under its own weight which seems to work so far building up the joint in stages. If I was going to extend as you need to I think I would use a scrap of white metal in the gap to give the solder something to form around. If the casting has already broken in that location I'd worry that it's a weak spot and the solder wouldn't hold long term though. I'm still learning (this kit could yet be a disaster) but I try to put cuts where another piece will bridge the gap and brace it. That being said, with spares available, I'd absolutely have a go because you can only really gain. Feel free to add a photo of the footplate to this thread if you want to.
  6. So... cab or footplate? Both! I didn't manage to do anything over the Christmas week but I've made up for that this weekend. And yes those buffers will not be remaining. The cab soldering went well but I did spend a lot of time fettling to make the joint fit up as good as possible before hand. Part of this process was to take out a lot of the locating tabs. They are needed if gluing, to give enough contact area, but if soldering the they end up getting in the way of the joint and also it looks like the driver is smuggling home a load of 6"x4" timber to build a shed. Below I'm checking if it's square before going over all the joints with the iron. It's slightly out but I didn't think i could improve on this to get the tiny fraction needed. Soldered but not yet cleaned up. Next I needed to shorten the footplate. You may have wondered why I am building everything as modules off the footplate casting. One bugbear I have with white metal locos is they regularly end up with a footplate that looks like a gradient drawing of the Somerset and Dorset. This is the nature of the material but I wanted to have the best chance of ending up with a flat footplate so i am leaving it until the last. ...and having carefully kept the casting flat I now need to cut it up... DOH! The PCB is soldered across before cutting to ensure the footplate has the best chance of retaining it's shape and resists the bending action of the saw. The first cut has been made and second is in progress. The 2 parts are then reattached as I did with the cab sides. Below is tacked so I can check alignment. And that's it so far. I need to look at the chassis next I think but I need to get some broaches before I can start on that.
  7. @WaysideWorks Sorry I've been through my spares, where I thought I might have some 0-4-0 wheel sets left, but no luck.
  8. I can't find any details of it online and they aren't mentioned in any of the deals papers I can find on their site. Frustratingly I didn't have time to check in store as I was with family. What's the purpose of the bulb in the circuit when regulating an iron? I've never been sure?
  9. On my post roast walk today I popped into Lidl and saw these and wondered if they could be used to make a regular iron temperature controlled?
  10. I was recommended an Antex iron here; The 120 is probably a bit overpowered for white metal as I usually have it near the lowest setting but I haven't looked back since getting it. Noting that they are a decent chunk of money, if you don't know if you will even get on with gas/white metal soldering, I previously used several gas irons from Screwfix. They did the job but just weren't particularly long lasting.
  11. Beginning to sound to me like it's been dropped or otherwise been subject to ill fortune. I don't think I have any of these left but I'll have a rumage in the spares box.
  12. The Johnster suggests the proper way but I'm going to guess that you might not have access to the tools and they would probably cost more than you paid for the loco. That being the case pick a wagon you know runs well. Hold it so the wheels are flange to flange with engine wheels (aiming at a light source like a window makes it easier to see) looking at one axle at a time. The flanges on your wagon wheels should be the same distance apart as the engine wheels. If not, this is what you are aiming for. To open them out the screw driver method works but you have to make sure you don't leaver the wheel crooked. Alternatively you can support the chassis either side of the wheel set and tap/put pressure on the axle center to push it through the wheel slightly. To close the gap up you can usually squeeze the wheels between you fingers. Before doing this though I would do as Il Grifone suggests and see if that wheel is crooked on the axle as it rotates. If it is I don't know if an easy way to put that right. Anyone?
  13. Also the back to back on the undriven axle looks much tighter than the driven. Even if this isn't the cause of the current problem it will cause derailing once you do get it running. It could be these are pinching the chassis.
  14. It sounds most like quartering to me, as others have suggested. If you set the chassis so that the connecting rod on one side is level and passes through the centerline of both axles turn the engine around and look at the other side. The connecting rod attachment points on the other side should both be at exactly the same point - either straight up or down and at 90 degrees to the first side. If not this is likely to be part of the issue of not all of it. If you can maybe post some pictures square on of the sides top and bottom?
  15. Have you looked at artist's boxes? This one just from top of Google. https://theartshopskipton.co.uk/loxley-langsett-wooden-pastel-box-4-tray?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIttGWvdXc5gIVzLHtCh0mhgFCEAQYBCABEgKdevD_BwE Tool type boxes etc often come up second hand in random places too which is where I have gotten a number of mine before. For instance toolmakers cabinets don't go for much second hand as there are loads of them in circulation. https://www.google.com/search?q=toolmakers+cabinet&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-m They were often made as apprentice pieces though so just make sure you get one from someone who was nearer the top than the bottom of the class!
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