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Monkeyhead

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  1. I've pre-ordered one, given I'll have plenty of time to save up for it, but I've made a mess of the email accounts - instead of it going to my existing Accurascale account, I've used a different email and it wants me to confirm my new account. Is there a way to swap my order number to my existing account @McC or @Accurascale Fran? Sorry for the inconvience!
  2. Thanks for this, it’s answered my question nicely. Have now got F2 set up on function b as latching and all is well. Thanks again for the pointers
  3. Thanks for the replies - I am running 3.20 so will have another look at the user manual, see if I can figure it out - I doubt I'll ever have more than 16 locos, so that should be fine. And I'd missed the bit about the new software version, might be worth me picking up a USB module after all.
  4. Hi, no, I didn't get the USB, and it is one of the early ones. I thought about changing the buttons, but thought that would change them for everything - so I have a TTS sound class 20, where F2 and F3 play the horn, and then go off. If I changed them, wouldn't I have the horn on all the time? Or is the hypothesis that the buttons are only configured per loco?
  5. Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me with a thing I'd like to learn to fix. I've got an old Hornby 91 that I've upgraded to a CD motor, and wired it for DCC. I also bought an Express Models lighting kit, which I've wired up and looks ok. I'm using a v1 Sig-na Trak ACE controller, and have a programming track. The decoder I fitted was one I had kicking around, and when I query it using the controller, it comes back as and ESU chip - cv7 shows 255, so I *think* its a LokPilot. It's an 8 pin one. The loco runs fine forward and back, but the issue I have are the lights functions. On the Sig-na Track, I have a "lights" button, F1 (which is latched), then F2 which are straight on/off (plus loads of other F buttons after this). What I see when I press the buttons is (in forward) - [Lights] front white come on, stay on, nothing else. [F1] rear reds come on, stay on, nothing else. [F2] front red come on then go off In reverse [lights] rear white come on, stay on, nothing else. [F1] rear reds come on, stay on, nothing else. [F2] front red come on then go off So basically, I *could* run the engine ok forwards, using the [Lights] and [F1] button, but couldn't in reverse as the [F2] doesn't "latch" What I think I should be doing is remapping the light functions to, for example [F4,5] where they could all operate independently , depending on the direction of the controller. But I don't really know how to go about doing that with the equipment I have. Hopefully someone can give me some guidance as I'm keen to improve my understanding of how this stuff works! Ta
  6. Hi all, just an update on this thread, over the weekend I finally managed to "finish" my test track, guided be the discussion above. Things I changed: I decided that I could forgo the second track, as I didn't really have room on my bit of board, and I'm not yet at the stage of modelling 009 anyway. However, I did like the idea of future flexibility, so wired in a set of banana plug sockets as an AUX, which should allow me to wire in a different gauge in the future if needed. The track set up isn't very clear from the picture, but it's basically a length of track with DCC Concepts rolling roads on, 3 either side of a central screw, held down with a length of thin aluminium. I wanted to use perspex, but couldn't find a way of cutting a piece accurately enough. The aluminium is well clear of the rolling road so hopefully no shorts. I can loosen the screws to then move the rolling road pieces around for different wheel configs. Need to do some labels for the switch box, and then it's just about complete. It's not the neatest piece of work ever, and I doubt I'll ever find a job as a carpenter, but to say I had no idea how to do it in March when I started, I'm quite pleased with myself. Thank you to all the people who contributed to the thread and helped me work it out.
  7. Thank you John (and Grriff) - will take some time to work it through. It's been a very enlightening thread, so thank you to all that have contributed
  8. Hey all, thank you for your continued input. I've tried to follow it (like the idea about the banana plugs) and have revised my drawing based on some of the thoughts above. It seems to make more sense to me, how does it seem to you?
  9. Hi, thanks for the replies - sorry my diagram wasn't very clear. Yes, there are 2 outputs from my DCC controller, 1 for running, 1 for programming. I'd wondered whether I'd got the black wires completely wrong, but my hypothesis was that they could all be connected up together if the reds were controlled by the switches. Glad I checked before starting!! Thank you for your collective assistance. I shall study the diagram above carefully!
  10. Hi there, hoping someone might be able to help me out with a bit of a project I'm planning. I want to build a bit of a one board test/programming track, with a DC controller, a DCC/Programming controller and two tracks, one 009 and one 00. What I'd like to be able to do is switch between the inputs and then the track. So test a dc 009 loco, then programme a 00 loco. I've done a rough diagram which I *think* works, but I'm struggling with the switch between the controllers. What sort is it? A 3PST one? That doesn't seem right to me. Can anyone give me any advice, or see any improvement/problems? Thanks, Matt
  11. Hi again, just thought I'd update on the couple of projects I've got on the go, and some of the challenges I've learnt from since last time I posted. My main project is 47299, which last time I'd glossed varnished, and wasn't best pleased with how it looked closeup and personal. I had a bit of drama with the decals - I had a set that I'd ordered, but I suspect that I didn't leave them in the decal fix long enough, as they weren't great, ripping and the like, to the point where I had to order a new set from Railtec. These duly arrived, and went on nicely. I matt varnished the loco and was pleased with the dulling down. I still wasn't happy with the yellow around the windows, so while I had some yellow out, I did a bit of short term masking and added a bit of yellow - to be honest, to no great effect. Despite using Tamiya masking tape, when I peeled it off, to my horror, it took the bottom of the 99 - gutted! So out with the t-cut, number off, and unfortunately through the blue paint to the primer. So a slight repaint of blue, and the spare number, and a shot of matt varnish and we back to wear we were! I've also started adding a bit of weathering using frame dirt, which I'm quite pleased with. Also added some to the bogie frames and fuel tanks, but need to decide whether i'm going to have a practice with some powders too to build a bit of texture. Suspect I will as I have to learn! I've also got a problem that I hope someone can advise me on, even if it's to where to post on the forums. I have an ESU sound decoder for this 47, but I also have an Express Models lighting kit I want to add. I'll be adding connectors to either end of any wires so I can swap in the future if needed, but *think* I may have to cut the green, yellow, blue and white wires on the decoder and connect the decoder end to the lighting chip. Does that right? And better ideas? I've also started the blue on my large logo 47, unfortunately I've broken one of my airbrushes by losing a seal when cleaning - have ordered a kit of different types, so hopefully will get it back up and running soon. Looks ok, but needs a few more coats - I'm finding it really hard balancing thinning the paint so it will spray, against losing lots of the pigment...... While I wasn't intending on starting anything else, I was reading George Dent's weathering book, and came across a section on pre-shading - he was using an old Hornby 24 and I thought, hang on, I'm sure I've got one of those in a box of parts I got off eBay, so had a look in the loft, and sure enough, there was are. So stripped and primered it, and had a go at pre-shading with what turned out to be an oddly metallic black. This looked a bit like the example, so while I had the blue out today, I gave it a few coats, and I was really pleased with how it came out. Still needs a few more coats to build the blue up, but I think it looks ok. Might have to find the rest of the bits that go with the loco and see if I can get it running! This week, I'll be doing some more blue painting, a bit more weathering on 299, fitting the new steel Heljan wheels I've got and maybe make a start re-assembling it! Hope you enjoyed reading, and please do leave a comment if you have any thoughts! Cheers, Matt
  12. Thanks Capt. It's a long way from perfect, but I didn't really know whether I would get the metal rails off without breaking them. But I will have a look at tidying it up, and like you say, with a bit of roof grime added, maybe it won't be noticeable! Need to sort the cab glazing out too, doesn't seem to be that common though, replacement plastic glass......
  13. Hi Rob, thanks for taking to time to look in and comment, much appreciated.... The only reason I glossed the model was to aid the decal application, which I read was easier on a glossed surface. I've got a couple of rattle cans of Humbrol varnish, so I'm using them up before I start with the airbrush varnish. Interesting idea about making your own powders up, I'll look into that, especially if I identify any gaps in any powders I have in the cupboard. M
  14. Good tip Captain, have got a few ‘test’ wagons in the loft, will dig them out and have a practice, but thanks for the info on using washes with Matt finishes
  15. So as I mentioned on the previous blog, I've started more than one thing. And finished none of them! Here are the other things I'm working on at the min. Hornby class 91 - so I bought this aaaaaages ago, and thought I'd have a mess about with a "what if" livery. Thinking along the lines on 50149, I wondered what would happen if the 91's were repurposed for some high speed freight work? So I took it to bits, and then decided I'd try and replace the motor with a CD motor. Which I then burnt out. So I tried again, and thought I'd try and add a dcc socket, and then an Express models lighting kit. Which I've pretty much done, as you can see in the wiring mayhem shown below. Though I've soldered connectors on, so I can disconnect the lighting from the decoder if one ever goes pop. I'd messed the yellow front up on the 91, and lost the headlight infill, so re-did it and messed it up again. But also learnt that cheap masking tape and fox transfers that aren't sealed don't get on too well! So when I've practised my weathering on other models, this will will be looking more "careworn". There's the hole in the roof to fill, new pantograph to fit and the roof apparatus to sort. Also need to clean the wheels, as the pickup is quite poor. drill the holes for the lights at the front, try and make all the wires fit, and see what happens! Another Heljan 47 that I was practising on is one I did in "dutch" livery, mainly to test out my airbrush and my masking. As you can see from the photos, I didn't get the masking quite right, so there's some remedial work to do, but I'm not unhappy with how this has come out. Not sure where I'll go with this one, maybe this one will be "ex-works" or very slightly weathered. A 3rd 47 is one I saw a piccy of and liked - a Scottish 47, large logo with ploughs. This one I've made a couple of hashes of too. When I wrapped around the yellow on the cab sides, it didn't match the yellow from Heljan, and it irked me. Plus you could see the vertical line where the "old" yellow finished. So I rubbed it down, and re-primered it. The roof it already rail grey, and the bodysides are primed, so when this has gone off, it'll be back to the yellow, then masking up for the blue. I'm also messing about with adding better buffers, have some nice sprung ones, but only 1 chassis I have will take them. And lastly (for this blog anyway) is a Bachmann 20, that I resprayed green with Halfords rattle cans. I thought I'd done an ok job, but the photos don't lie - the masking of the grey/green under the rail is terrible! I also need to lay my hands on some cab glazing as the stuff that came with it was so brittle if snapped in half. Managed to pick up a chassis in Cornwall on hols for £9 (iffy motor), so I'm hoping to either fix the motor, or just run it as a "dummy" paired with the factory 20 at the side of it. I'm hoping a coat of matt varnish takes the gloss off. So that's mostly it, as ever, thoughts, ideas, comments welcome! Even if it is "finish *something* Matthew!!!" :-)
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