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  1. Thanks for this, it’s answered my question nicely. Have now got F2 set up on function b as latching and all is well. Thanks again for the pointers
  2. Thanks for the replies - I am running 3.20 so will have another look at the user manual, see if I can figure it out - I doubt I'll ever have more than 16 locos, so that should be fine. And I'd missed the bit about the new software version, might be worth me picking up a USB module after all.
  3. Hi, no, I didn't get the USB, and it is one of the early ones. I thought about changing the buttons, but thought that would change them for everything - so I have a TTS sound class 20, where F2 and F3 play the horn, and then go off. If I changed them, wouldn't I have the horn on all the time? Or is the hypothesis that the buttons are only configured per loco?
  4. Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me with a thing I'd like to learn to fix. I've got an old Hornby 91 that I've upgraded to a CD motor, and wired it for DCC. I also bought an Express Models lighting kit, which I've wired up and looks ok. I'm using a v1 Sig-na Trak ACE controller, and have a programming track. The decoder I fitted was one I had kicking around, and when I query it using the controller, it comes back as and ESU chip - cv7 shows 255, so I *think* its a LokPilot. It's an 8 pin one. The loco runs fine forward and back, but the issue I have are th
  5. Hi all, just an update on this thread, over the weekend I finally managed to "finish" my test track, guided be the discussion above. Things I changed: I decided that I could forgo the second track, as I didn't really have room on my bit of board, and I'm not yet at the stage of modelling 009 anyway. However, I did like the idea of future flexibility, so wired in a set of banana plug sockets as an AUX, which should allow me to wire in a different gauge in the future if needed. The track set up isn't very clear from the picture, but it's basically a length of track
  6. Thank you John (and Grriff) - will take some time to work it through. It's been a very enlightening thread, so thank you to all that have contributed
  7. Hey all, thank you for your continued input. I've tried to follow it (like the idea about the banana plugs) and have revised my drawing based on some of the thoughts above. It seems to make more sense to me, how does it seem to you?
  8. Hi, thanks for the replies - sorry my diagram wasn't very clear. Yes, there are 2 outputs from my DCC controller, 1 for running, 1 for programming. I'd wondered whether I'd got the black wires completely wrong, but my hypothesis was that they could all be connected up together if the reds were controlled by the switches. Glad I checked before starting!! Thank you for your collective assistance. I shall study the diagram above carefully!
  9. Hi there, hoping someone might be able to help me out with a bit of a project I'm planning. I want to build a bit of a one board test/programming track, with a DC controller, a DCC/Programming controller and two tracks, one 009 and one 00. What I'd like to be able to do is switch between the inputs and then the track. So test a dc 009 loco, then programme a 00 loco. I've done a rough diagram which I *think* works, but I'm struggling with the switch between the controllers. What sort is it? A 3PST one? That doesn't seem right to me. Can anyone give me any advice, or see any i
  10. Hi again, just thought I'd update on the couple of projects I've got on the go, and some of the challenges I've learnt from since last time I posted. My main project is 47299, which last time I'd glossed varnished, and wasn't best pleased with how it looked closeup and personal. I had a bit of drama with the decals - I had a set that I'd ordered, but I suspect that I didn't leave them in the decal fix long enough, as they weren't great, ripping and the like, to the point where I had to order a new set from Railtec. These duly arrived, and went on nicely. I matt varnished the loco and was p
  11. Thanks Capt. It's a long way from perfect, but I didn't really know whether I would get the metal rails off without breaking them. But I will have a look at tidying it up, and like you say, with a bit of roof grime added, maybe it won't be noticeable! Need to sort the cab glazing out too, doesn't seem to be that common though, replacement plastic glass......
  12. Hi Rob, thanks for taking to time to look in and comment, much appreciated.... The only reason I glossed the model was to aid the decal application, which I read was easier on a glossed surface. I've got a couple of rattle cans of Humbrol varnish, so I'm using them up before I start with the airbrush varnish. Interesting idea about making your own powders up, I'll look into that, especially if I identify any gaps in any powders I have in the cupboard. M
  13. Good tip Captain, have got a few ‘test’ wagons in the loft, will dig them out and have a practice, but thanks for the info on using washes with Matt finishes
  14. So as I mentioned on the previous blog, I've started more than one thing. And finished none of them! Here are the other things I'm working on at the min. Hornby class 91 - so I bought this aaaaaages ago, and thought I'd have a mess about with a "what if" livery. Thinking along the lines on 50149, I wondered what would happen if the 91's were repurposed for some high speed freight work? So I took it to bits, and then decided I'd try and replace the motor with a CD motor. Which I then burnt out. So I tried again, and thought I'd try and add a dcc socket, and then an Express models li
  15. Thanks Captain K, thanks for looking. Yes, I'll be "matt-ing" it next, what I read (or at least what I thought I read) was that the washes liked gloss, as it let it run into nooks and crannies (although the washes I have seem too thick to run like the videos I've seen, so they may need thinning). But I'll airbrush weather after the matt coat. I think it will be a bit of a test piece to to honest. Maybe one that I'll be ok with now, but will look back on in future years and go "what was I thinking!!". M
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