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mercig studios

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  1. Hi I am trying to find some good quality photos of the class 68 roof fan and grill as I would like to do an etch for the 2mm Dapol model. So far I am not having much luck, so if anyone has a link to a photo then it would be greatly appreciated. M
  2. Does anyone know if Brian has been out and about at shows recently and if everything is OK with him? I have been trying to make contact, with multiple calls per day, for the last month with no answer. M
  3. I do not normally comment on products but this is an exquisite little loco that deserves praise.....certainly the best British RTR 'N' steam loco that I have ever handled.
  4. This is a great idea and fantastic to see two proactive guys actually doing something really positive for the scale. Some very quick ideas: class 92 would seem an obvious first punt. A little more left field would be to actually do bodies that could fit on existing manufactures chassis, like a 45 plated over/split headcode or a correct 56 body for the Dapol chassis. Commission Farish to do shorter bogie towers for the 37/47/55 etc, to reduce the gap between body and bogies.......this one modification, that could be just clipped in, makes more difference to the look of a loco than any amount of detailing and may be a relatively cheap tooling cost with a high uptake once people see the visual difference. M
  5. Yeah, brush painting these grills is never going to give a satisfactory result as the capillary action of the paint will thicken in all the places that you don't want it to go.... these grills are one thing that an airbrush is essential for good results. M
  6. Hi RBE The 47 grills are much easier to fit than the ones for the 37 and the holes are slightly bigger as per the prototype. With the 37 grills you just have to go very easy with the painting and use very thin layers of paint..... the real tough part is the varnishing which is the most problematic area as this can clog the grills, so again you just have to go easy and can be a case of just getting the magnifier out and use a pin to unclog some of the holes. Pic of a 37 grill below
  7. Sorry to res-erect an old thread but I thought some people would be interested by a new product from Shawplan in the form of a very nice etch for the roof grills and fans: M
  8. The ones on the 20 are larger and more robust where as the 70 has thinner versions as the running plate has a smaller width. Roundhouse has explained very well how to fix the problem. Very simple fix and all you need to do is push the copper pickup up with a micro screwdriver. It is very irritating and just the act of turning the loco upside down will often move the pickups away from the chassis..... I wonder how many returns Bachmann has had from customers thinking they had a dead loco.... would perhaps have been a good idea to post something on their website as it takes only a few seconds to push the pickups back up. M
  9. Hi Njee I think 'elitist' is a bit strong and I would say it was more a sense of frustration that Dapol have chosen to do two types with neither being correct. They could have done just the Doncaster version and produced the perfect model and then everybody would have been happy but instead we have a hotch potch model that suits no period or prototype. Most things can be modified and altered but the one area that is very hard to do is the cab side windows which are incredibly difficult to do in a way that blends seamlessly.....in fact it would be allot easier to have modified Doncaster windows to Romanian. M
  10. Give Shawplan a ring as, from memory, they do most of the nameplates in N Gauge...... just not listed on the website. M
  11. Dapol are releasing a Doncaster built version which will be much more 'correct' than the Romanian version which was pretty much an amalgamation of both Doncaster and Romanian with about the only thing right being the rounded front cab windows and some nose end detail.. However it still looks, from the pre production photos, that all the releases will only have the later cantrail grills. The grills are a relatively easy fix but you will need another bodyshell to hack up for the extra grills...some photos of the conversion here: http://www.mercigstudios.com/gallery/39/class-56 M
  12. Farish transfers are very easy to remove and all you need is a blunt knife to take the top of the transfer off and then quickly wipe over with a cotton bud with a little thinner. Various techniques are needed for different manufactures but you are lucky that Farish is by far the easiest. M
  13. Hi Woolley I think it's great to see an enthusiastic young person having a go at weathering. Eric & Gripper has given you some great advice as regard airbrushes. Please take the comments below as friendly advice: i) Personally I would scrap this thread and start a new one along the lines of 'my first attempt at weathering N Gauge', that way you will get a much more positive response from people who will give you useful tips and confidence. A 'How to' guide will instinctively get peoples back up when you have little or no experience. ii) Learn to use the free image editor on this site..... N gauge is notoriously difficult to take good photos of and it will help with cropping as well as light contrast and brightness. iii) Don't be afraid to fail.... often useful techniques can come out of disasters. iv Do not weather your prize locos and stock until you have become proficient....I guarantee you that you will look back at your early work with a sense of disbelief at how bad it was. There are plenty of old bodies that can be bought on ebay to practice on. v) Do not litter your thread with pointless posts about waiting for paint to arrive etc..... it will turn people away from reading your threads...try to post with photos. Maybe in a year or two you could revisit this thread and start again with all the knowledge that you learned. A 'How to' guide should be exactly that so you need to tell people what you did to get to a stage. So for the fitting of headcode discs to a Farish class 20 I would suggest doing something like this (by no means perfect but you get the idea): Oh and rob was not being rude with the 'get mine' comment..... it is a reference to a comedy program that all of us over a certain age would know Please take my comments as friendly advice and I wish you every success with your weathering. M
  14. Hi Just a quick bump for a new product from Shawplan that I think makes a big difference to the loco. The etches are extremely fine and prototypically correct.... on the Farish model the top part should actually be under the grill and not on top. Takes around 3-4 hours to complete but well worth the effort for such a prominent feature. M
  15. HI Photo below shows the buffer beam detailing for a generic BR Blue period although it does vary slightly by era so you need to check prototype photos: Hope that helps M
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