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    near Munich, Germany

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  1. That's absolutely, what it is, Mike! Producing bogies is an advanced job and not the project for a beginner to start with. It's really easy beginning with a simple model like a crate, a platform or some tube loads. Even a house is mostly just a collection of a plenty of cubes. The only real limit might be budget, but what do we pay for a brand new loco? For N scalers as Jim said the Anycubic Photon might be the better choice: 320 GBP on Amazon For 00 and 0 scalers I recommend to start with the Anycubic I3 Mega and PLA filament 250 GBP or the s-type 320 GBP It was a big experience for me to realise: "What I can draw, now I can model!" Merry Christmas to all! Chris
  2. Oh, I never would do this! The tender drive Patriot is a poor performer and the big ringfield motor would never fit in the Claughton's tender. Hornby released a more rare to get series of Patriots with loco drive like the Illustrious. Here I thought about using the loco chassis and reconstruct the tender from scratch according to the drawings. Or does anybody now a better fitting model to use the mechanism?
  3. I mean more its unique design. As I saw a picture of this locomotive, I knew at once that I have to model it. I have seen a picture of the large boiler version. Can you tell, what means ROD tender? Is it rail operation division? Do they used this type of tenders on the LMS? Thanks for this hint! I just ordered a copy at Amazon's.
  4. Hi there! I am planning to design a 3D print of a 00 LMS Claughton Class body shell. As leading and driving wheel diameters are identical, I think using a Patriot Class chassis would suit the Claughton well. The Hornby engine driven model is a reliable runner. On the web I found just this small copy of a drawing. Does anybody know the source of this picture or even a book, where I could find a scale drawing of this unique engine? Cheers Chris
  5. I am using the i3 mega for two years and have now a second one, the newer model. First I had a kit built Geeetech prusa thats more a repairing hobby than a useful printer. The Anycubic is definitely the best beginners printer and is even good for the advanced modeller. Open the box, fix a few screws, install cura software and you can start. The default settings in cura produce just good results. During the more than 500 hours of printing I just had to replace the hot end once, because the model got loose from the bed and baked hopelessly around the print head. *Finding UK free stuff on Google seems very limited. " That's true! Therefore I will share the stl-files of all my projects I introduce in this community. Hope I am not the only one. Good Day Chris
  6. Cutting models in parts depends on the possibilities of 3D printing. I always try to avoid supporting structures that have to be cleaned after the job. Some vertikal parts may be easier to print horizontally. Details like pipes and handrails have mostly to be printed separately. And finally it depends on how the underframe and the chassis is constructed. My principle is to cut as less as possible and as much as necessary. Assembling PLA is not like our conventional plastic models, because there are very few adhesives that do an acceptable job on this material. When mechanical stability is needed, I weld the parts from inside using a 3D pen. I'd recommend to have a look on ready to run models. Usually it's divided in driver's cab, boiler with front frame and cylinders. If the boiler is to long, then cut at the rings to hide the joint.
  7. I am really pleased about your interest, thanks! Sorry, but offering the parts to print might start more requests than I have time to answer. Printing the parts will take up to 14 hours of printing. The parts can be assembled like a model kit. You need further 6 M2 10 mm screws, some washers, the buffers, the wheel sets, the bearings and the couplers of your choice. If there is interest I can add a file of a NEM poket that fits this model.
  8. Yes, the resin printer is much more effective in smaller details like the hundreds of rivets on this model. The Anycubic i3 is really at its limit dotting the rivets, not getting problems with stringing.
  9. Hello, dear 3D modellers! Here I can show you a fully 3D printed 00 model of this LMS 24-wheeler. I decided to divide it in parts to avoid any supporting structure. I made the experience, that printing lateral detail like braces and rivets works better if the part is printed horizontally. The model is printed on an Anycubic i3 with standard PLA filament. For bonding the parts I used IVONIK Acrifix. The bridge sides are welded to the supports by using a 3D pen to improve stability. The transformer can be removed. The wheelsets are running in 2mm standard brass bearings. Test running was very successfull so, if you print the transformer with 80% fill, no extra weight is needed. It is the first version and I think I will add for the next one some extra detail. For anybody who is interested in printing this wagon or even improve it, I put the STLs in ZIP-file on file-upload.net.: 120ton LMS bogie trolley file set Edit: Oh I hate theese spamers! To download please use the blue cloud button on this site (as shown on the picture below)- all other download buttons are spam! Have a nice day Chris
  10. Hi Folks, To update this thread I post here a picture of my first LMS 120 ton bogie trolley. Well, it's the first one and I will make a second one with some adjustments to get closer to the prototype. There I will add the funny decaling "Shunt with care" too.^^ Here some informations about the used parts: It is made of 38 3D printed parts. For bonding the PLA material I used Ivonik Acrifix. To improve the stability of the bridge, I welded the parts together using a 3D pen. I've drawn all parts on computer by using CorelDraw for the Splines and Cinema4D for modelling. It's running on Märklin metal wheelsets in 2mm Romford pin point bearings. The buffers are Wrenn spare parts and couplers are Märklin.
  11. Hello, I am not quite shure whether this is the correct section to post this question... I found in Plymouth at a nice pre owned dealer's shop this 00 coach. It's a Hornby China made model and seems to be an older one. To create a second push-pull-set I would like to look for a second one. Does anybody know, how this type of coach, fitted with a driver's cab is called or maybe know the former Hornby number? Thanks
  12. Okay, thank you Smokebox! Then I will replace the Hornby decoders by the LENZ Standard V2.
  13. The uncoupler uses 250 mA. I thought the sum of all functional outputs should not exceed 500 mA. Then drawing to much power makes the funktion output of the decoder stall?
  14. Hello, I have fitted some of my locos with the Hornby 8249 Decoder and now want to upgrade them by installing a remote decoupler. This device from Märklin works fine with the LENZ standard V2 on F1 (green wire). Having connected the uncoupler to green and blue wire on the 8249, I was able to activate it on F1 key but can't cut off power, although having deactivated F1 on the control. I had to hit the emergency stop button to power down the main. After restoring power, the function out of the decoder was off. I could activate it hitting F1 but again was unable to turn it off. I changed the decoder by a new one out of the box, but the problem appeared again. Also with a LED hooked parallel to the dcoupler, the same effect. Any ideas?
  15. I read in Model Rail February issue about a guy having modeled the front/end coach of a so called push-pull commuter set. It consists of two coaches and a tank engine. Were these trains common? Did the LMS run them? And technically interesting: How did the man at the front end of the pushed coach communicate with the driver on the steam engine?
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