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PatriotClass

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  1. As requested, I added scale lines to the decal sheets, a vectorized SVG Version and an additional set for tender decoration. Maybe Fox Transfers is the right partner in GB to make a professional custom decal sheet.
  2. Hi Guys, Sorry for so long not checking this thread. The many rivets on the bridges blow up the stl files over the limit of 10 MB, so I can't use the attachment feature. This time I try it with Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/22c34z9g97bwnp7udrwkz/120ton_bogie_trolley.zip?rlkey=ivgqzb6gmpsv4weoimkstda5o&dl=0 Please feel free to download!
  3. Thank you for the interest. Yes, that's possible. Just the loco shell or also a tender? I'll contact you via PM.
  4. I don't know Hou to PM but I'd be interested in getting a Standard Claughton body from you.

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. PatriotClass

      PatriotClass

      It's a time ago when I printed the last Claughton, so I will first do the print job, check the result and send you a picture, before I want to request money.

       

      I hope that's okay for you.

       

      Kind regards

      Chris

    3. Lordvader167s

      Lordvader167s

      Yes that would be fine thank you

    4. PatriotClass

      PatriotClass

      Hello Lordvader

      I have now printed a body set. See the pictures attached.

      If you are okay with it, I can offer you two bodies for 50 GBP plus 15 GBP parcel. I can send you a PayPal invoyce. Please mail your reply to christian@kass-dp.de.

      The decal set can be downloaded from the thread.

      If you will model the standard LNWR Claughton, I can offer you the customized cabside numberplates. Which numbers do you wish to have?

       

      Kind regards

      Chris

      IMG_20240209_075438.jpg

      IMG_20240209_075331.jpg

  5. Hello Guys I received some days ago messages from RMWeb members who are still remembering my printed LNWR bodies, Thank you for this! 😃 I posted this topic here two years ago. In the old thread all pictures are corrupted so I launch here a new thread. The Claughton bodies fit a Hornby Illustrious chassis. The front bogie has to be modified to fit between the cylinders depending on the curve radius you have on your layout - the only real challange building this Claughton :-) I can offer you a printed model or the stl file set, if you have a printer. The model is made to fit even small standard printers with 12 cm building volume. I include a picture how to position and support the model on the slicer software. Please make a choice, which combination you are interested in: The Standard The Caprotti The Rebuilt Caprotti with deflectors Tender choice is LNWR Standard or Oil Burner Prince of Wales - The Standard The Tichy Please note that these bodies are not plug and play. To make them fit you have to file or use a grinder. If you are interested, please send me a personal message. Below I attach a Claughton Class decal set to download. If you would like to have some custom numbering, please send a personal message! Have a fantastic day! ClaughtonClass_DecalSheet.svg ClaughtonClass_Tender.svg
  6. This short film of 1911 just took my interest some years ago when I thought about modelling a Claughton. These pictures are stuffed with interesting prototype information. But the most exciting object is the rotating dumper. I have seen some US prototypes before on youtube and thought about the Walthers model, but I find, it looks more like a toy and produces a horrible noise. So I started thinking about how to get the Crewe dumper to model size. The key moment, when I decided to start this project, was an Arduino starter kit, I ordered for the summer holidays. To rotate the dumper and return it exactly to the starting point can be really easily solved using a stepper motor. Here the positive points of stepper motors: - No need for a reduction gear, because steppers have a good torque - No endstops. The working angle or rounds and speed can be programmed absolute exactly - In hi-res mode absolutely quiet. Listen to my video! The Arduino can control servos aswell. On this project I used two to lock down the wagon during dumping. The whole model is a two part 3D print: The revolving drum and the base. The conveyor in the background is printed and driven by a bigger NEMA stepper. The coal wagon is a 3D print on a Dapol-chassis. The unloading process starts with the engine pushing the wagon into the dumper. On the far end there is a bumper with a magnet inside, that catches the metal hook of the coupler. So the wagon is and stays exectly positioned. On my shunter, there is a Märklin DCC decoupler (This action I will show later, when the dumper is installed into the diorama). The dumping will be started by a push button: Like on the prototype the bars were lowered down on the wagon. The guy fastening the chains is simulated by two servos mounted under the track. After having locked down the wagon, the Arduino controller starts the stepper making 3800 steps that equals appx. 160°. The controller waits three seconds and brings back the wagon to its starting position. Then the servos release the bars and the engine can come back to grab the empty wagon. The rotating drum is sitting on and is driven by four gears. Just gravity was not enough to keep the drum sitting well on the gears, so I fixed two of these strong micro magnets under each of the two big rings and painted the surface with ferro-mgnetic paint. I never belived it will work, but this paint is really magnetic.^^ Compared to the prototype you might realize that my model looks a bit bigger. The small H0 scale Preiser guy in the front is not the only reason. The two servos had to be hidden under the track, so their size was the minimum factor for the radius of the drum. -> Watch it in motion on youtube.
  7. Thanks for the interest. Below I have uploaded the STL files and a dxf-Export in case, anybody wants to modify the model. The Servo mount is made for these chinese mini hobby servos. LMS_Sockel.stl RedArm.stl YellArm.stl 1147782237_LatticeTriple.stl DogLeg.stl 1546055458_LMS_Junction1.dxf
  8. Hello guys, I would like to populate my colliery with some workers. I am modelling the 1920 era. Does anybody know some ready to place figures like on the picture below?
  9. So when e.g. the left arm is on, all points are cleared for the main line and if instead the right arm is on, the points are set for Birkenhead. If the train is e.g. sheduled for Birkenhead, the driver has to wait, until the right arm gets on. So this signals are not necessarely situated in direct proximity to the physical junction. Please excuse me for asking some questions that are maybe not really professional for a British railway enthusiast, but in Germany this type of junction signalling is completely uncommon. On the other hand just this is beneath many other things what's faszinating me about British Rails.
  10. Hello guys, I am just studying British signaling to equip my layout correctly. Thanks to some nice websites I am getting slowly through it, but I am stuck with one type of signal that I saw on LNWR pictures several times. See the one linked below! I am meaning the one in the center. It's obviously a junction signal with two dolls and both arms on same height. So it should give rule for two tracks, equal speed. I learned that ahead should be a point that splits the line in two ways. But ahead of this signal, there are two tracks joining. What's the information for the driver when the left arm is on and what's when the right arm is on? Wouldn't it be enough to install just a one arm signal? I just linked the picture here, because it has copyright by the Transport Library.
  11. Just catching the sun for drying. Here I made another one inspired by Mr Warburton's book. I wanted to try printing a lattice post and mount two arms on one post, The M2 screws at the arms are provisoric. The whole signal is one mould, exept the mechanics and arms and reaches up to 16.5 centimeters. I am just wondering if I should put in the arms colour filters or use a duo-LED that can display red and green by changing it's polarity. If anyone is interested in the STL files, feel free to write a message.
  12. You're right! It's not a good compromise, indeed. That's possible to do so in the model, but I fear that the attatchment of the lamp may become to weak, when I give space for the strap. But I did it the lazy way: I applied a drop of super glue to fix the arm and the blinder to the shaft. When the glue has set, I removed the strap and, here it is! So I will keep the strap just as an assembly aid to fix arm and blinder exactly.
  13. I used a three year old ELEGOO mars printer. So the print took 7 hours. I thickened just the hand rails and the safety ring at the top end of the ladder. These parts are printed in a diameter of 0,8 mm. I tried 0,6, on my Claughton handrails, but this won't bring satisfying results. To get here more prototype look, I suggest to knip off the resin handrail and replace it by brass. The arms have double the thickness of the prototype to give more stability, but I think, here it's possible to go thinner.
  14. The Midland twin signal didn't made it to my modelling list, it took a direct shortcut to realisation. Many thanks once more to TheSignalEngineer for this inspiring picture. As soon as I am at home from my holidays, I will give it an airbrush and some weathering. Am I right that the colouring is as usual all over white? See a full description of the model, and a video here at the modelling section!
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