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roythebus1's Achievements



  1. No, the Hornby 86 is too long on the wheelbase, maybe try using an old Bachy Warship can motor and gears?
  2. I've just realised I've got a Hornby class 86 power bogie, maybe that's the right wheelbase? Must go and have a look..
  3. The couplers are the standard 0 gauge single link coupling. The whole loco is now stripped down, it needs new magnets, brushes, a centre driving wheel, chassis end castings, coupling rods and crank pins. The footplate is bent upwards on the right sude under the cab, maybe 1.5mm out of true as is the cabside top! The chimney and dome were wonky so have come off as well. It was a bit of a surprise when I started chipping paint off, it was LNER apple green under the back, along with some black and white lining.
  4. ISTR this subject was discussed on here before and the answer was nobody seemed to know. But the suggestion was to get a large scale OS map from NLS from the 1920's, find a sharp curve and work out from the map what the radius is. It should be easy if you have the Templot track planning software on your computer, it's free to download and use.
  5. I've asked the question of my friend Tony Hultman who is engineer for the Gothenberg Tramways museum fleet. The tightest radius they have is about 17.5m and that is in the depot. Radius is measured to track centre. That works out to about 230mm/9" in 00 gauge and a bit less in H0. 200mm/8". What your trams will actually negotiate is down to your practical experience, but curves of say 6" radius ought to be possible.
  6. I've got some Hartel track and many of the continental articulated cars it was supposedly designed for won't go round the sharp curves. Turning circle for buses is generally around 56'-60', so 120mm radius.
  7. That's more or less what I thought. It's worth spending a few bob on it though. But whether to restore it to stud/2 rail or 3 rail? The chap who runs the spares has coupling rods, crank pins and can supply exchange magnets for pre war and post war motors, it seems this has the pre-war motor as it's a horseshoe magnet. What's the best stuff to get the old paint off? I'm reluctant to use Nitromors in case it eats away any cast bits. It'll make a change from restoring old buses!
  8. What would the restored loco be worth? I can't find anything on a "popular auction site" at the moment. I'll let you know if attaching to other magnets works.
  9. I think this model may have cast wheels, not iron. Odd how the flangeless centre wheel has pop marks on the Romford style nut holding the wheel on. the chimney also seems a bit off-centre, maybe fell off sometime and has been put back on? So any ideas where I can get the magnet done and find some coupling rods? If I put the loco's magnet between a couple of industrial welding type magnets I wonder if that will restore the magnetism? they seem to magnetise my metal work bench quite nicely!
  10. Many years ago an old fella I used to work with at Kings Cross gave me this loco to try to get running. I never did much with it and it's remained in a box for the last 40-odd years! The wheels and gears have freed up, the motor turns but I believe the magnet isn't any more! Any contacts as to where I can get it remagenised? I suspect it's either a Leeds or Bonds loco. It has on flangeless centre driver and the crank pins and coupling rods are missing. It's painted early BR back with the cycling lion, stud contact and there's a serial number underneath. I can't quite read it even with my manifying glasses, maybe someone else can identify it for me. It'll be worth getting running again.
  11. Here it is, in good running order. I've also found. box of Trix motor bogie driving wheels, plain and grooved to take rubber tyres. I bought a load of them in 1967 to put on Triang motor bogies. I had a Hymek so fitted and it pulled about 120 wagons on the MRC test track!
  12. I've found an AL1 chassis with motor, wheels, gears, chassis block and the frame that goes in the loco body. all that's missing is the sideframes and coupling. It's not or does not appear to be a mazak motor but steel frame similar to the X04 and 5 pole as well. There's also the trailing bogie apart from the sideframes. I don't know what happened to those but I know there's still one lying around somewhere. there's an AL1 body that has one end missing and the other end converted to AL6 with additional louvres in the sides. Gears are all there on the motor bogie if that's any help. This was a probably another I got a s a Trix Locobuilder kit. Would this be any help to you? Interesting in that the idler gear is on a long axle with another idler gear on the ther side, so you'll have a spare! PM m if interested.
  13. There's a few model engineering companies out there who can supply British thread wood screws, I got a load of 3/8" no. 2 csk for a bus restoration recently. But I can't remember their name!
  14. If you buy something like crossover for Mac that will run almost any windows program on a Mac. I use Templot on my Mac with a suitable conversion package.
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