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  1. The switch on the TX22 is 'centre biased' which means it springs back to the OFF position. There is also a un sprung version. both work just fine as a lot of the receiver functions have a toggle on/off option.
  2. What model? there are various ones with differing switches
  3. Almost all my experience is with Deltang equipment and basically the receivers have a number of 'P' pads to which can control various devices including LED's. They work on 3V so the LED resistor has a different value than DCC. There are default automatic forward/reverse plus you can use a switch on the transmitter to switch up to 4 LED's in any combination, this requires programming. I set up a bench test with front and rear white and red LED's each end. A single 3 way switch means you can have them on/off in any combination including all on!. I should have videoed it. They can stay alive as long as the receiver is getting power.
  4. David T said that is why he changed the LED colour Apparently you can also set up another LED to mimic the on board one, any colour you want anywhere you want
  5. 44 x 19 x 9.5mm and for DCC compatible ones 52 x21 x 19mm. Separate ESC (electronic speed control) needed? 44 x 22 x 11mm. I think for 0 scale or larger.
  6. That battery/loco test you ran suggests the loco was drawing about 80mA per hour, pretty efficient. You could try another test with say a 100mAh battery and the loco pulling its normal load at service speed. I found that with a up to 3 hour operating session and about 12 to 15 locos the locos were only actually moving for about 15 to 20 minutes on average. the rest of the time they are sitting 'idling' and drawing about 12-15 mA. This suggests with a 100mAh battery your loco could move for 30 minutes and sit idle for 2.5 hours. I prefer charging the batteries outside the loco and use 'UM' types of various capacities. Interesting to see the removeable smoke box door, how did you do it? Also is there room to fit the decoder etc in the side tanks?
  7. I run mixed rakes of Hornby and Bachmann coaches and have removed the weights from the Bachmann ones bringing their weight down to similar to the Hornby's. Can't see the point of having the rolling stock being heavier than it needs to be. A 4 wheel wagon at about 40g and a coach at about 120-130g works for me.
  8. I built my baseboards out of 3 layers of 50mm blue foam. Overkill but I bought a lot of it. I used a specialist spray on adhesive but discovered that you can use screws as well. NOT self tapping. I use long brass ones and they hold surprisingly well. If you add some Copydex to the thread before screwing in you have the proverbial …. to the blanket. Try to get that out without destroying the foam, no way.
  9. Easy! - start with point - remove ballast shoulder from inside of small curve and connect to diverging track on point - connect short straight to point with the 'wedge' fitting into the gap in the small curve ballast shoulder - connect large curve to small curve - connect long straight to 'wedge' straight Job done Remember to keep the small curve ballast shoulder
  10. If you can't get a replacement tyre try building up a new one with multiple applications of bullfrog snot, essentially filling in the grove
  11. I found bullfrog snot was good as a final coating even on traction tyres in good condition. By slowly building up layers you can even replace a missing traction tyre in grooved wheels.
  12. did Gunpowder vans ever carry other goods or were some repurposed for other roles not involving stuff that could go bang!
  13. An alternative is to make up your own 2S battery from 2 small single cells and charge them separately but you would need to be able to remove them from the loco. Another idea is to make up your own larger single cell with smaller cells connected in parallel. This acts as if it is a 1S battery and the individual cells automatically balance themselves. How many mA the loco uses in normal service is important. My rule of thumb is if the loco pulling its normal train at normal speed draws less than 250 - 300 mAh then a Pololu booster will do the job with a 1S battery. How do you find the loco power requirements? I am lucky in having a continuous circuit so I charge the battery, couple up the wagons etc and mark the throttle position for normal running. Then charge the battery again and let it run until the Rx LVC stops the train. note how long this took. for example if you have a 250mAh battery and the loco/train runs for an hour the loco is drawing about 250mA. as a refinement my operating sessions last up to 3 hours. I give the loco 30 minutes of moving which needs 125mAh in the above example. My Rx/Pololu combination needs about 20mA when idling so add 2.5 hours of this giving 50mAh for a total battery size of 175mAh. Actually my locos usually only run for 10-20 minutes.
  14. There you go, all sorted, well almost. A 1S battery will only deliver a maximum of 4.2V to your 12 volt motor. Sometimes this is useful such as in shunting locos where you don't want to go faster than about 15mph. Two ways of getting more volts to the motor: Use a 2S battery wired in series that will give you a max of 8.4V, actually you can use a 3S as well, they will need some form of balance charging though or use a voltage booster with your 1S battery. I use the small Pololu ones to boost a 1S battery to 9V, 5V and 12V are also available. You get about 85% efficiency in the voltage conversion but this depends on how many milliamps the loco needs
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