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CloggyDog

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  1. I usually do a bit of research before the show, assuming the organisers have a website (and it's up to date!) and I might well have a shopping list prepared off the back of that, so will usually scoot round the traders to sort that out first. Then I'll bimble round the show, usually doing the outside ring first and then any cross aisles. Like James, I usually find myself starting on the left. I will usually look at every layout as I've often been surprised/inspired by something on a layout which falls outside my usual interests, although some layouts might only get a quick 'once over' if they are very generic ootb trainsets. With my exhibition manager's hat on, I'm also on the lookout for suitable layouts to invite to my show (or my club's show) I'll also check the s/h traders just to see if by fortune there's any Czech TT, British H0 or DR H0 bargains to be had. And I always give the s/h book sellers a good look - there are still some gaps in my bookshelves!
  2. 34C outlined the process in the post immediately below the one of mine you quoted. Cut the 2 posts from inside the Airfix shell and slightly trim back the vertical inner ribs until the Airfix body is a nice tight push-fit onto the Hornby chassis. If you want a more secure hold, you could fit a stretcher of thickish plasticard up in the top of the Airfix shell at both ends (just aft of the cabs) to align with the screw mounts through the Hornby chassis and drill out to accept the screws. One minor thing to bear in mind is the centre body 'skirt' on the Airfix shell is under length (by about 4 scale feet), but it's not that noticeable. Might be worth trying the Hornby glazing in the Airfix shell, might be easier than cutting clear plasticard for flush glazing (been there, done that....)
  3. I've also clearly been lucky too then, as my electrofrog points just get plonked down straight out of the packaging, usually wire-in tube mechanically operated, ballasted/infilled/weathered and they work fine, even after a fair few years use and periods of storage. DC and DCC. Not saying that the wiring methods noted above don't work, but my personal experience also shows the points work 'as is'.
  4. I recall the opening credits including the line 'Based on War of the Worlds by HG Wells' (my bold/italics) which is much the same thing. I wasn't expecting a slavish adaptation, I'd already heard it was looser job, albeit set in the correct era at least. And if you think the Collet Goods gaffe was bad, some of the reenactment forums have been in full froth mode over the soldiers kit and equipment!
  5. The Bachman tooling for the Mk1 Subs are now rather long in the tooth, even if they are still in the range as current stock. The basic shape is there and they do look like Mk1 Subs, it's just the detail is now poor compared to modern releases. Laser-cut flush glazing is available from Shawplan (c £8 per coach), wheels can be swapped for metal ones, the underside trussing could be replaced (Southern Pride/Replica/Comet) or bodge a Bachmann BG chassis, but yes, that will all add to the cost/time. I've upgraded a bunch to varying degrees for a BR blue project, as BR Mk1 Subs were the only such stock still running in the 1970s.
  6. Tim Horn is still very much in business, despite his website woes. Had a delivery from him within the past month. Ping him an email, I know he keeps the more popular boards in stock and his baseboards are top quality in both design and material and o together very easily.
  7. Despite having 2 Ikea-LACK-based micros under construction, I've already started the advanced planning for another, my first ever foray into NG Modelling. This will be largely based on the VoR and Devils Bridge station (though probably a mirror image version) and inspired by this pic from the Newton Abbot Railway Studies website: Yes, I know it's banger blue. I can't ever recall seeing a blue-era VoR layout on the show circuit or in the comics. Should upset a few steam purists, I hope I've never even contemplated a 009 layout before, so am rather in the dark regarding stock. Locos I know I can get kits for (whitemetal body on a Minitrix 2mt/BR24/BR64 chassis) and there's some VoR rolling stock available in kit form, albeit the earlier coaches. Worst case I'll use the closest-looking stock and wing it. While I'll likely use Peco's 009 track for cost/availability reasons, I'd be open to suggestions of alternatives as I know Peco's rail section is a tad chunky. The Lack upon which Mynydd y Ddraig will be built is 110cm x 26cm, plus a fiddlestick off the station throat end. I'll obviously need to compress the platform (and therefore train) length, but I think I can still capture the feel of the prototype.
  8. Has the Hornby 31 chassis completely disintegrated, or just the outer ends? Either way, I'd look to bodge a replacement chassis (thick plasticard perhaps?) to re-use the Hornby motor and bogies, unless the chassis issues have also knackered the Hornby body? The old Airfix 31 motor bogie, as already noted above, draws a lot of current compared to todays' models and it definitely sounds like your controller is tripping/re-setting.
  9. I build micros as that's easiest for the space I gave available at home. (plus they are quick, cheap and allow a wider variety of modelling - different scales, eras, countries...) Exhibiting them, I do get lots of comment and discussion from people (often women prompting their spouse) about how little space is actually required for a usable model railway. My micros are invariably operated from the front and sit on a table (3 or 4 chairs in front for viewers to sit and view), also good for kids and those with mobility issues. This all adds up to lots of interaction and interest from the viewer. I can also involve them in the shunting puzzle 'game' by having them pick the cards, or even allowing the keener ones to gave a go. Regarding long layouts, one of the best layouts I've seen at a UK exhibition (in the 40 years I've been going to them) was the superb P87 modular layout at Warley some 10 years ago, brought over by a collective of Dutch and German groups, iirc. Epoch 3 DB practise. Some 100ft long, fiddle to fiddle via 3 or 4 intermediate stations and most importantly, operated as a real railway, with correct dispatching (via an internal phone system and local Stellwerke) and running the trains most realistically. I happily spent a good hour or more over the weekend watching it. It helped that the modules were to a consistently high standard and gelled together as one entity. But apparently I was in a very small minority as it was a. 'Foreign rubbish' and b. Boring. I get personal preference for a given era or scale or prototype, but to simply ignore very high standard modelling on that basis seems very rude, bigotted and ignorant.
  10. The older ones (1962 onwards) with separate sides are prime cut&shut fodder for producing Mk1s other than the basic BSK/CK/RMB that Tri-ang gave us. There was great article in the MRC circa 1982/3 which detailed some of the possibilities (and a couple more articles elsewhere detailing conversion to assorted EMU types) - I know I did the TSO/BG and BCK conversions from BSK and CKs. The RMB, with it's lovely late-Mk1 window frames could become a TSO with one RMB sacrificing windows into 2 others (2 from 3). Avoid the 70s production runs though, the ones with the oversize 'chrome' window frames. I believe Clive of this parish is still making coaches this way . The only major issue, iirc, is the bogie centres are a few mm too far toward the end. Otherwise they are very usable.
  11. CloggyDog

    Dapol 08

    The Dapol cab is correct scale length IIRC, so why would it be rectified?? On the real 08s, the smaller number transfers were used (6" vice the usual 8" on mainline locos) to fit the numbers on the cabside. 08 792 by Alan Monk, on Flickr 08 709 Stratford by Alan Monk, on Flickr A number of 08s did get 8" numbers which were very squished up 08 750 Stratford by Alan Monk, on Flickr 08 855a Aberdeen by Alan Monk, on Flickr 08 900 Bristol Bath Road by Alan Monk, on Flickr
  12. While on the subject of LT wagonry... Does anyone know what type of bogies we're fitted to the 30t flat wagons, either the 1937 or 1951 batches, number ranges F332-F369. Difficult to tell from the various photos I have available to me. I'm also assuming they ran on smaller diameter wheels? 9mm? 10.5mm?
  13. I've recently cut n shut a Parkside 4mm MR 20t Brake Van into the LTPB Hurst Nelson van, scaling fairly roughly from photos and a couple of key measurements. There's 6mm out of the wheelbase, 2 planks (4mm) out of each cabin side offset with the joins hidden hehind the duckets) and 1mm off each veranda. The recessed outer ends were infilled with Evergreen O Gauge planked Car Siding and duckets scratchbuilt from 4 layers of 20 thou plasticard, suitably shaped. Roof shortened by 6mm and the rain strip and chimney detail removed. 0.45mm handrails added, and the long footstep cut n shut by 6mm. Its not 100% correct - I didn't alter the cabin ends (door centred still rather than offset to the left) and only 4 step supports instead of 6 (might still add those on), but it looks the part at least. Light grey with red ends and Modelmasters decals will finish.
  14. I scratchbuilt some 4mm ones recently for a friend's LT micro layout. As a terminus, I made them double-ramped. 2 x 15mm lengths of Evergreen 3.2mm channel glued open face to open face, ramps from Evergreen O Gauge 'car siding', 3 plank widths x 1cm, some 10 thou microstrip strapping on top and the train stop arm itself from microstrip (sorry, can't remember the size) Ramps painted burnt umber, trainstops light grey, arm white. The paintwork has been touched up since those were taken.
  15. Oh... and a good way to get the print close to the rails, especially around pointwork, is (once the track is fixed down in its final position) to use a large sheet of lining paper and a crayon to make a rubbing of the trackwork. You can then use this as a cutting template to match the texture sheets to the track.
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