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  1. Just wondering if there was any possibility of British H0 joining the other niche/minority scales in having a dedicated sub-forum in the 'Scale Specific' area?
  2. I'm planning a British H0 micro layout and am seeking a couple of items of stock: Lima H0 Mk1 BSKs (I'm after 3 or 4) Lima H0 Mk2 TSO Lima H0 12t vans (again, after maybe half-a dozen) Livery is unimportant (these are conversion/detailing fodder), likewise wheels and couplings can be missing/broken. TIA!
  3. Hi Chris, I have a part used Fox decal sheet covering brake tenders, will dig it out tomorrow and let you know whats still on it. (I did one blue tender, might need some lettering for a 2nd, but the green era lettering should be untouched and available)
  4. A couple of content updates: 2 modelling demonstrations: Australian H0 by Iain Hunter Bonsai RhB (Nm) by Paul Steadman & Jon Hall And 2 more societies have confirmed attendance: Italian Railway Society Austrian Railway Group Just 5 weeks away!
  5. The layouts which really prompted me to look beyond the 6x4 train set of my pre-teen years were In Print Kidlington Diesel Depot (Railway Modeller circa 1979-81-ish - Junior Modeller section) - simple fiddle to shed yard in about 6 x 1. Ian Futer's Lochside, fiddle to station/yard but P4 and weathered - I did my first Freedom of Scotland a year or two after I read the article and was very happy to see that the real thing looked exactly like his models! At Exhibition A 5 x 2 (ish) shunting yard/puzzle at the Chelmsford show around the early-80s. Can't remember it's name, but it enthralled me for much of my visit watching a tank loco simply shuffling wagons around. I think it had 3-links, so certainly opened my eyes to proper shunting without tension locks. In later years, it's generally been the small/micro/shunting layouts that have captured me in print or at shows - Carron Road (EM by Nigel Bowyer - and his US waterfront H0 layout a few years later), The assorted EM layouts from the Hull and Gloucester groups - Kyle of Tongue, Rushenden Metals, Villiers Street, Easington Lane, Canada Road, etc. Peter North's sublime Rock Island H0 layouts 'Hope, Illinois' and 'Florence, Illinois' really pressed my 'model the US' button in the early-1990s, which has happily stayed pressed
  6. Sad news indeed. The micro layout community has lost one of it's leading creative figures. His numerous micro layout ideas will live on though in print and around the 'net and give us something to remember him fondly by. Condolences to his nearest and dearest.
  7. I think so, but they appear to be fitted seemingly randomly across the various batches - I think I have photos of most/all batches and if there is a pattern, it's pretty damn obscure! It's not a critical (or even minor) issue to my Grumpy modelling, I was merely curious
  8. My latest toy has arrived, a Kühn 749 (catalogue number 33412), finished in EpV CD red/white livery. Lovely model, very smooth and quiet runner. Looking 'round the 'net for 749 pics for weathering inspiration, one thing that struck me was the randomeness of the 'dangly bits' either side of the bogie. The lead loco here, 749 181 doesn't have them, but the rear machine, 749 146, does. Now, I do have a resin shell for a Grumpy (cheap ex-ebay), which I might try and bodge to fit on the Kühn chassis, effectively giving me 2 locos for the price of one-and-a-bit. The resin shell has the 'danglies', but I doubt they would fit over the bogies, so I could take them off. Really just wondering if there was any logic, rhyme or reason why some Grumpies had danglies and some not??
  9. I've cut down 3 of these to correct the length/width - carefully cutting alongside the strapping keeps everything square enough - for the majority of the wartime LMS/LNE/WR and early BR ones with equal side panels, you need to cut the one piece shell into 12 sections, 4 corners and 4 side panels, 2 doors and 2 end middles, losing 1mm at each cut, then reassemble. For the very last BR batch (D1/261, Lot 3227 Swindon B887135-59), as these had unequal panels, you only make 8 cuts and take 2mm out of the each outer side panel. I used some 60 plasticard strip in the inside L angle to reinforce and align the shortened sides and ends while it all set. The ends need a little bit of reprofiling to smooth the roof arc out. Roof was a plasticard rectangle with the over-door extensions and with 3 microstrip ribs attached once the roof was on and set. I mounted my reduced bodies on modified Parkside 9' wb 4-shoe RCH chassis while the last batch one sat on a modified Red Panda 10'wb 8-shoe clasp BR chassis, reduced in length over headstocks. I still have 1 to complete, one of the earlier D1/260 standard bodies on a 10'wb 4-shoe RCH underframe (1/261, Lot 3099 Swindon B887120-34) Dave Furmage (who'd also done a couple for his Longcarse West layout) and I wrote the process up for DEMU's Update magazine, Issue 50. I am looking forward to the Rapido one, though the last I heard, it had been pushed back down the production schedule due to more pressing commitments.
  10. Back when the only (easy) way to do EM gauge diesels was to use the Ultrascale conversions, I used those to convert most of my Hornby and Lima fleet - Lima 20/26/31/37/40/47/50 and Hornby 25/58, plus DMUs from both. Personally, I found the Ringfield-motored locos much less affected in terms of tractive effort - possibly because I tended to opt for steel-tyred wheelsets and I used steel rail. The NS-tyred wheels did seem 'slippier' than the steel, but as I was only running shortish trains, not an issue. A solution I did see (and tried once) was to bodge a double-motored chassis (cut & shut 2 chassis together) which would certainly solve the problem! I did a double-motored Lima 47 which even today would give a Bachmann 47 a run for it's money! The Hornby diesels were much easier to double-motor, only requiring a cross-member to be cut away and a 2nd ringfield dropped in. The re-wheeled Lima 20 did have serious traction problems, though this was tracked down to the friction of the pick-ups on the trailing/unpowered wheels. I replaced the Lima stamped metal pick-ups with 0.45mm brass wire, much freer running and that solved the problem.
  11. Indeed they are - even though there appear to be the correct number of windows and in the correct layout, everything is compressed slightly to lose the inch or so in length... the devious so-and-sos... Plenty of the later (non-'Lightweight') Met-Cams had the 4-lamp front as built, most losing the 2 middle lamp when refurbed. One small point Northmoor, is the little nubs above the outer lamps should also come off - these were Tri-ang's representation of the high-level 'yellow diamond' MU sockets that the early sets (like the Derby Lightweights, with which the early Met-Cams were compatible) were fitted. Dispensed with on the 'blue-square' standard Met-Cam 101s which (like all B-S DMUs) had the MU mounted on the lower edge of the headstocks. A neat reworking of a classic RTR model, nevertheless!
  12. I was a fairly regular punter in the Pentonville Road shop once I started working 'up the smoke' around 1990. And while it was the Penguin who flogged me my first few US H0 locos and stock, the rest of my early fleet all came from Victors. All those Athearn and Roundhouse freight cars for £2.50 or £1.50 respectively, blue-box locos for around £20 and running so much better than the Hornby/Lima UK equivalents. Always enjoyed listening to the robust banter coming from behind the counter. And while I didn't start my continental H0 modelling until long after Victors closed, a couple of ebay buys of Piko (old blue box, DDR/Wende-era production) stock have borne 'Victors' price labels.
  13. Model Trains International Issue 22 has drawings in 2mm, 3mm, 3.5mm and 4mm. I do recall a 7mm drawing in the Modeller, late-5os/early-60s?? I'd need to dig out the NPCCS folder in the shed to check, will try and do so over the weekend.
  14. A couple of cheap recent(ish) acquisitions were an Athearn sound-fitted Rio Grande RS3 for £30(!) with battered handrails and a missing fuel tank moulding, replacements for both easily sourced from ebay. And a Kato/Atlas New Haven RS1at the SECC show, bought labelled 'non-runner' for just £13 (!!) from a well-known trader. Lifted the lid to find the motor had come loose and the drive shafts popped out of their sockets, easily fixed Although my US modelling has taken a back seat in recent times, these were too good a bargain to ignore. Just need to decide how to finish them... The RS1 as NYC is a no-brainer, but the RS3... I might look at using the chassis as a common one across the fleet so I always have a sound one. My layouts tend to be one loco in use at a time anyway, so that might work. Just need to see how the different shells fit on it.
  15. You could try a #19 on one car and a #20 on the other? I do mix my NEM Kadees (on UK OO and Continental H0) to ensure close coupling without affecting ability to go round my layout's curves - so quite a bit has a #17 at one end and a #18 the other. On my mid-50s-era US H0 stock, I've now standardised on the #153 scale short whisker wherever possible.
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