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JimRhodo

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About JimRhodo

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  1. I’m now making the hill with the tunnel. The backdrop is okay (3mm hardboard for lightness with some stripwood to reinforce it). A bit warped but useable. The hill will be insulating foam (50mm) with the foil pulled off. Question. What should I use to glue the layers together? Some say gorilla glue, pva, pva plus superglue, hot glue and not solvent based glues. What do you think?
  2. Just in case you needed/ wanted a summary of what I’ve done so far :
  3. I gave it a tentative bend with a screwdriver and it all seems to be working again. Fingers crossed.
  4. I considered that but it’s definitely the coupling/ pivot in the last picture. Several highly magnified slow motion videos located it. I just don’t want to irreparably damage it.
  5. New problem. Ive got a siding point which makes the train jump off when it goes on to the siding. Off the siding is okay. I’ve cleaned it and done slow motion studies of it but can’t see what’s wrong. It’s the pivot of the point where the jump happens. It’s a tiny bump but it’s enough to derail. Is is there anything I can do apart from try and bend it with a pair of pliers?
  6. I may be overdoing the glue. I got it about right and then added more. I just want to get on but don’t really know what I’m doing. The trains can run slowly so there’s no major grit. I’m polishing the track with a wooden cocktail stick and a block of wood I’ve cut two grooves in to match the rails. The inner track is still seriously wet so I’ve not run a train on it at any speed. Next job probably the hinged backdrop. This is a rough idea. I’ll draw a grid and then put some iconic Scottish hills on.
  7. Thanks. I look with envy at the ease with which I see paint brushes tamping and sweeping the ballast while I scrape and thumb rocks about. I’ve done most of the tracks now and read a useful article about using wood to polish the tracks. I nearly got going with sandpaper which I understand is a no no. Question. How long does 50 50 pva take to dry, days?
  8. Well the little independent train for the quarry is up and running and the tracks are pinned. I’m now filling up with ballast. I’m using Javis fine ballast chips. Online ballast seems quite a bit finer. Almost dustlike. They are proving rather labour intensive and that is just the inside of the track. Should i I be using finer still? Now I’ve taken a photo it looks better but what do you think?
  9. I’m thinking of a small highland train working between a quarry and a station contrasted with the Scotsman which just flies by. It would be near a tunnel which is the border between England and Scotland. The only issue at the moment is that a wagon would probably be shunted onto the mainline rather than empty it’s contents from one wagon to another. Unless there was a stone storage facility. Or a crane as the wagon would belong to the quarry The 1cm lip is nearly in place and I’ve filled most of the holes with fine polyfilla. I don’t have many clamps so I have to do one bead at a time. The tunnel i plan to be removable. Will foam support its own weight or should the base be reinforced with hardboard do you think? I also have an idea of Scotland exiting Great Britain in the 1930s but that’s mainly because I have scale soldiers from ww1. French and British. Waving (platform) flags Riding bicycles Running (for trains) Digging holes Laying cable Sitting down (having missed the train) I have to account for all the rifles.
  10. I’m thinking of getting a Highland Rambler starter set to run inside and separately from the Flying Scotsman. Can I just get 8 x double second radius curves. with the track provided in the starter set so that it will run parallel?
  11. The next issue is the dents and dips left by the countersunk screws How best to fill them? I presume that they need filling as I won’t be hiding them all with hills and the grass paint won’t level it all out. The 10mm trim to prevent runaway stock will deal with some holes. Well I’ve used all the strip wood up. The board weighs 18.75kg at present. I took the board out of its little room and realised there are some gaps at the edges where the strip wood was warped. The board is flat though. I wouldn’t recommend working in a small space. It’s like doing yoga with dumbbells. That last brace....
  12. Oh. The lip idea I hadn’t thought of. Easy enough to glue some beading. My carpentry is a bit rough and ready especially in the small space I was working. Legs are an option especially if we move house. I was planning to put beading round half of it to slot a hardboard back drop which would be removable. Thanks for for the input.
  13. :“Fix in the twist” I’ll have to watch that. The base seems level enough when lying on the table. I undercut some of the longer pieces and will have to miss out one of the spars as I’ve run out of wood. The middle one is done and is so snug I used a 1 1/4lb hammer to get the wood to fit. I’m just considering whether to miss a centre spar or a edge spar. Does it matter?
  14. First post. If I’m in the wrong place I do apologise. Two years ago I bought a Flying Scotsman set “for my son” but I’ve had more use out of it. I’ve made cardboard houses, churches, mountains and green hills out of subuteo pitches and baskets but it’s time to move on. The base is 9mm ply from a local timber merchant. 120cm x160cm. Indoor outdoor marine or birch I’ve no idea. Very bendy. I’m bracing it with 18 x 44mm soft wood. Screws at 20cm gaps and the battens with ~ 15/15.5inch gaps. The long strips are glued and screwed. The flex lengthways is not bad. And then i hesitated The width pieces will be short lengths fitted between the gaps. Will this still reduce or cut out diagonal and width wise flex? Its difficult work as I have minimal space and the track is already pinned. It’s also getting heavier. The unit sits on a drop leaf table. Ill leave it there. I’m just going step by step at the moment.
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