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Flymo749

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  1. Which is what I intend to do ;-) I had a couple of random thoughts earlier today as to how to make the alignment easier when it comes to fit things together. I need to have a doodle in my sketchbook... Cheers Paul
  2. I have that drawing bookmarked ;-) That said, I'll be etching the hole to 0.7mm. I tried 0.8 on my trial etch of just the DC bits, and it was a bit too close to the edge when I broached the etched hole out to take 0.8mm rod. I'll actually be drawing this directly off the GA to scale for the overall sizes. I intend to make the upper part extend to the level of the bottom of a prototypical floor - you may have spotted similar in the way I etched the end handle "vees" ("ells"?) . In that way, if a kit/scratchbuild has the floor in the correct place, the height is automa
  3. As I have a couple of dozen of unmade Coopercraft wagon kits with DC1 brakes, I'm confident I have spares... That said, I won't be using them. There's something fundamentally wrong about the angle of the left-hand brake rod. If you look at this image of a built up Coopercraft N13 on the GWR.org website (http://www.gwr.org.uk/graham/cooplocomf.jpg) the rod points directly up at the middle of the wagon - almost as far back as the centre of the vee. Compare that to figure 11 in GWW Appendix. This is the "works" photo of the DC1 brakegear as fitted. The left
  4. Hi Rich, Thanks for noting that. I was aware of it, from the GA drawing. The DC1 should have left over right, rather than the more conventional right over left that you find on DC3 and Morton brakes. Chapter and verse, as always, at http://www.gwr.org.uk/nowagonbrakes.html The old casting was one of the very few that I have in my brake gear spares box which is a 9ft wheelbase. I definitely didn't have any proper DC1 brakegear at all. As this was a proof-of-concept exercise, that I could design the parts and that they would fit properly, I'm not fussed about the ove
  5. Excuse the cross-post, as the question of GWR DC1 brakes in 4mm has popped up on two different RMWeb threads in close succession. In talking about the DC1 set up, and the swan-neck lever in particular, I believe that this is what is intended: The w-irons are from the Scalefour Society, the brake vee is a spare D&S one, and the brake gear is an old 9ft casting - ABS I think. The nickel silver operating mechanism is an etch that I drew up at the start of lockdown, based on GWR General Arrangement drawings: I had a few etched when
  6. Excuse the cross-post, as the question of GWR DC1 brakes in 4mm has popped up on two different RMWeb threads in close succession. In talking about the DC1 set up, and the swan-neck lever in particular, I believe that this is what is intended: The w-irons are from the Scalefour Society, the brake vee is a spare D&S one, and the brake gear is an old 9ft casting - ABS I think. The nickel silver operating mechanism is an etch that I drew up at the start of lockdown, based on GWR General Arrangement drawings: I had a few etched when
  7. There are things out there... For the GWR W3 cattle wagon, there was the TMD/Perseverance etched brass kit. Keep an eye on well known auction sites, as they come up from time to time. https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/perseverance-gwr-mex-cattle-wagon-dia-479392025 If you're after an open cab and bunker for a 517, find someone who has built the later cab version of the M&L/Alan Gibson 517 kit and have kept the early ones as spares. I'm afraid that I can't help on this, as I built my 517 as the early version, and have the later parts in my spares box.
  8. Give me chance to play around with them first What I mean is that having drawn up the basics of the levers that I needed, the next step is to decide how far I go down the road of drawing up full brakegear, with the pushrods, shoes, v-hangers, etc. I suspect I'll end up doing all of that, as it will look better at the end of the day than whitemetal or plastic, and my spaces box has a surprising lack of 9ft brakegear... Cheers Paul
  9. Hi Dan, Without wanting to promise too much, too quickly, literally yesterday I had some sheets of new etchings arrive for my 5522 Models range. As well as the GER bits which are the main subject, around the edges of the etch I stuck some bits and pieces for my own modelling. As well as some parts like LNWR wagon number plates and GWR buffer steps, I have done a few tests of a GWR DC1 brake lever. This is for my own modelling purposes, as I have a fair number of CooperCraft kits to either build from kits or to upgrade my past efforts.
  10. Excellent, thank you. No particular rush, just a lot of LNWR stock to refurbish/build. Cheers Paul
  11. Implausible, but not impossible... I've more extensive references to the East London line in various issues of the Great Eastern Journal, but it was a moderately used conduit for goods traffic north and south of the river. Have a look at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/East_London_line#Early_use for a short summary. Includes ownership by the LBSCR and SER, You know you want some of those kits... Cheers Paul
  12. I see from your website that the LNWR diamonds have sold out already. Any chance of any more in the near future? I've just about exhausted my stock from Ratio kits and HMRS sheets. TIA, Paul
  13. If you're expecting to get through a lot of drills, don't go to the model trade, but go to where industry goes... https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Twist-Drill-Bits/Drill-Bits---Polished/04-08mm Twenty pence each! Okay, so you can't get 0.55mm exactly, but you can get 0.05mm either side in bulk. Cheers Paul
  14. Hi Ralf, I'll declare upfront that I have an interest in answering here, as I designed my own mounts for Sprat & Winkle couplings, and make them available to anyone else who would find them useful. To answer your two specific questions: 1. the two sizes have different purposes. The loop for mounting the hook is robust, the loop for coupling is as fine as can be usable for reducing the visible intrusiveness. I use 0.45 mm and 0.33 mm straight brass wire, respectively. 2. for making the loops of a consistent size, I've etched holes onto the edge of the
  15. Blimey! There's a worrying parallel here. I was my school's team captain in a general knowledge quiz for Black Country schools, a couple of years earlier. I lost the tie-break by not knowing what a squirrel's home is called... Cheers Flymo
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