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RobjUK

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  • Location
    Sheffield, England
  • Interests
    Computers, programming, music, renovating guitars, model engineering.

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  1. This may be of interest - though I have no idea how you can integrate it with other systems, or if that is even possible. https://www.simsig.co.uk/
  2. You could try turning the speaker over (compared to the photos) and sealing it, airtight around the edges, to the roof fan opening (if it has a grille rather than a solid insert). Temporarily removing the insert / changing to a grille may be worthwhile if not. A carefully applied bead of blu-tack to stick and seal it may work as an experiment. That makes the whole loco body act as a baffle and should give a significant improvement to a simple "open" speaker. Whether it's good enough is another thing altogether.
  3. That would breach UK / EU law, unless they have a geographic address on another page of the site. (But I have no idea of the laws in Canada). It's part of the "E-Commerce Regulations" from 2002. extract: And a link to the full regs & info: https://www.out-law.com/page-431
  4. Their domain "lococraft.co.uk" was registered for a year and expired in April 2019. I never saw the original posts re. this, but for information any web site selling anything in England / the UK must by law give a street address for the business (not a PO box or similar) plus phone number / email. The same applies in Europe and quite a few other countries. Any site that does not give a real street address should always be assumed to be a scam of some sort.
  5. As a technical point of note, that does not appear to actually be "litz" wire, just stranded tinned copper. Litz wire has every strand individually insulated and twisted/braided/woven together to make the overall conductor. It is normally used in high frequency applications where "skin effect" is important and the same strands without separation would have high impedance. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Litz_wire Many extremely fine strands but without insulation between strands is normally called "extra flexible" cable. This is nothing like as thin, but as an example it's the most flexible cable I've managed to find for power links such as tender <> loco, "NSR Ultraflex" in various sizes, from whatever supplier has it cheapest at the time... https://www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/nsr-ultraflex-motor-cable-1m.html https://www.tbirdslotracing.com.au/nsr-silicon-cable-x-1m This is a cheaper sub-1mm diameter extra flexible type: https://thepihut.com/products/adafruit-silicone-cover-stranded-core-wire-2m-30awg-blue?variant=27739708817&currency=GBP&gclid=COD1pbWr2eICFXAA0wodbuIJQA For general low current interconnections where you do not need the ability to stand continuous flexing, "wire wrap" wire works well; that's my normal type for interconnects on prototype circuit boards etc. It is 0.5mm outside diameter. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hookup-equipment-wire/2094849/
  6. For stripping small (or most) wires, I just use good quality side cutters. These Toolcraft ones are pretty good quality, for the price. I've used them for fine work for several years. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toolcraft-816744-Electronic-Diagonal-Cutters-No-Facet-128mm/131133775368?epid=1428922468&hash=item1e882e9e08:g:~R4AAOSwNmxb7kbP Or these from RS; they are rather heavier duty, very good when new but I tend to use them for large cables as well, so the blades get chewed up after a while. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-cutters/0536329/ Make sure you get a type like those with "flush cut" blades (what they call no facet in ebay listing - see the inset of the blade profile in the ebay article), not angled at both sides like a typical larger wire cutters. If you gently nip the wire with the flat side of the blades towards the wire end and just pull towards the end, it should strip. Unlike double angled blades, they dig in and grab the insulation very easily, with little "grip" force needed. It may take a bit of practice so try on some scrap wire first. To join fine wires, strip about 1/4" or 5-6mm of each, twist the stripped ends (with both ends facing the same way), solder then straighten the wire so the soldered joint lays flat against the insulation at one side or the other. Then insulate the joint. [Electronics designer & manufacturer for over 40 years].
  7. Re. the controller, I have a Digitrax Zephyr [DCS51] which works well. It's an all-in-one box, but extremely expandable, it can be linked to hand throttles, booster stations, there is a USB interface that allows connection with PC control software such as JMRI and via the PC link you can use software throttles on smartphones or tablets etc. It's rated at 3A on its own. I got mine off ebay.. Link to provide the details only, not a supplier recommendation (I think you can find them rather cheaper, in fact). https://www.dccsupplies.com/item-p-103207/digitrax-dcs51-zephyr-xtra Whether it's suitable or not probably depends more on what style of throttle you want, eg. if you want a box/console or hand throttles only.
  8. I need to complete both the smoke unit fittings and the cab interiors before progressing with the body, so I know exactly how much space is available; I can see the speakers needing to be shortened slightly to shoehorn everything in! The cab interior is being made from a set of parts supplied by Peter Clark Models. The quality of my painting should not be used to judge the parts! I did go totally wrong with the very first bit of paint. I got some pots of Railmatch paint in the appropriate colours. The last time I painted a model with enamel paint was a plastic kit for a young relative, a few decades ago and using Humbrol enamel. I expected the Railmatch enamel to be the same stuff - it's not; it appear to be the same industrial grade paint as would be used on the prototype or other machinery, extremely thick and needing thinners to be usable even for brushing, slow setting and is nothing like the paint I remember. However, I'd already started on the front bulkhead so that now has to be completed with enamel, as acrylic just will not flow over the oil-based paint. I got the equivalent colours in the acrylic versions, which are infinitely easier to use. I also already had a set of Vallejo acrylics suitable for some parts. The body must still be enamel as there is no equivalent for the lower yellow-green band (of the green livery) in any paint series I've found so far. That will be airbrushed and is for another day, or more like another year... On the subject of painting, I got a few different sets of small brushes from ebay; most are average but on particular set, branded "Maries" and some chinese characters, is outstanding. They have excellent shaped, fine tips for detail work. So, the cab interior parts, as they stand at present, still needing rather more work. The white paint went very wrong, it did not quite mix fully and I got a brush of almost watery stuff that just ran on, so some rework needed there. Plus the crew, three figures as I'm not sure which will fit best until the cab is nearer complete. These are from Hardies Hobbies, apparently 3D printed but with the best finish and detail level I've seen in any 3D prints.
  9. I have not done very much with the interior of the body shell yet, beyond fit the crossmembers for the fuel tanks and the fan mesh. Although it looks very big (it's 18.5" end to end as it stands, without buffers etc.), once it has the cab interiors, space for the motors above the bogies, roof fans, smoke units and a pair of very large loudspeakers to to give a something like realistic sound, it's suddenly an extremely cramped space... The smoke units (ESU ones) will mount crossways together in the centre and link to brass tubes feeding the roof exhaust ports. I'm still trying to get the fit on those just right, at the moment they may be a fraction too tall. The side "T" branches will connect to the ports on the respective speakers to pass some of the sound via the exhausts, plus put as much bodywork as possible between the port and the speaker itself in the base of the body, for the best acoustic baffle effect.
  10. The body has also made some progress - some early photos while trying to get the overall end and nose shape correct, with the nose and window castings just resting in place, then recently with the body shape improved and the ends completely soldered up:
  11. And the other, which has the outer frame drilled and screwed in place, though the castings still need some details cleaning up:
  12. More bogie details, one with a motor fitted (and temporary paper shim for clearance). If the wheel alignment looks odd, it's probably because the centre axle is in floating bushes for vertical movement and has more side-to-side play than the driven axles. There additional sprockets and a drive chain to add eventiall, to link the outer axles.
  13. Some of the bogie castings and part-built stages:
  14. Project: PRMRP 7mm Class 55 Deltic. I've not been deliberately documenting this project so far, I usually forget to take photos unless it's for specific details. Anyway, some bits to date since starting in January 2019. The bodyshell etch, as received: The start of the roof curve seemed a bit out of place to me so I reworked that. For information, for a long bending rig, I used some B&Q aluminium U channel I had (around 20x20mm section) for sharp bends and some mini industrial "C" rail for smooth bends, pairs of either type clamped up solid with a small vice and a few small G cramps. For small parts I use a couple of cheap pressed steel angle brackets with about 4" legs. They have good square edges and work well when clamped in a small bench vice.
  15. I don't use the Zimo decoder, but looking at the manual, the two digits in CV56 have different functions, the proportional and integral parts of the speed feedback. Try adjusting each separately up and down a step or two at a time? The info on page 19 of the manual suggests trying such as 73 for jerky response & one of the items in the motor table uses 91.. Also try adjusting the digit values of CV9 separately as again they have different functions. The manual I was using, in case the page numbering is different to yours: http://www.zimo.at/web2010/documents/MX-KleineDecoder_E.pdf
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