locomad2

I had a similar problem about a year back and posted in motor & drive thread (sorry cant link) seemed due to over tight armture the shaft bored out sideways the hole where the little bearing sat. Fixed it by just adding a new bearing on top of old one,, and adjust the top nut on armture, loco runs fine now

As a teenager I once lost a brush while cleaning and replaced it with pencil lead, think it was a Hornby Dublo 2-6-4T but cant reallly remember. Locomotive worked well then and probably still got the pencil lead in, so have a few locomotives since. HB leads are softer but have used 2H as well. Often file a curve in one end of the lead

One of the minor disadvantages of running old Kitmaster coaches is the tendencies of the windows falling out during service either due to glue failing, bad handling or the odd derailment. However the good news is nearly aways the glass remains inside the coach and using double-sided tape on little finger can be put back without removing roof or underside. This particular example is unpainted except for linings, and doesn't have the excellent peco cardboard interiors, considering its over 60 years old stands up well to most modern coaching stock.

You dont seam to come across them 2nd hand at toy fairs prehaps type of models modellers hang on too as they work so well

Yes it is and just realised Meccanco went bust 60 years ago, the mail coach still works the grandchild think its great fun putting those little mail bags on the hook

Ive a few of them those slimline however i dont find them that compatible most tension lock coupling especially triang mk3 stock so larger one left on the front. One advantage then was quite easy to swop them over well ahead of there time now we have modern nem fitting

Here is my 31 getting on for 40 years old and still looking brand new. Actually its the original body as its one of the first models I decided too "collect" suitable fitting cheapo tatty bodies and repaint, detail etc and swap and keep just 1 or 2 chassis in good working order. Thus I tend to have just a few chassis and lots of different bodies which fit, keeps costs down. Hence with class 31 ive still got some unpainted Airfix bodies in white or grey plastic, messing about over years somewhere is a Classs 31 in British Army deep bronze green with black "Mickley mouse" camouflage. This one runs beautifully, very smooth with excellent haulage abilities easily copes with 9 Kitmaster mk 1 coaches which are quite heavy it never needs attention as last service date was may 1991, original rubber tyres on black wheel and yes centre one is fixed and cut off. Somehow doesn't distract from a neat looking model. Considering cost £15 for the set thats about £3 for the locomotive 1985 prices ( 2 pints of beer ?) Reckon best value model ever

Ive one in green part of a special set sold by WH Smith with 3 blue BR coaches in early 80's rrp was about £24, in a special offer was just £14, i think someone made a mistake and took £10 off instead of 10%. Really popular model been on every layout since purchase, quite powerfull with no vices & good looking, far better than some of the modern rubbish sold now

Age of the plastic I've a similar one been boxed for years, like yours the inner removable sections are a different colour assuming from a different plastic batch

Very much agree with you, about 15 years ago tended to start using "airline 10" very light oil used as in line lubricant for air tools, then it was about £5 for 5 litres, you dont need much for model locos Another problem is actually getting a very small drop onto the very small bearing either end of HD motors, city and 2-6-4T as example. Medical syringes and needles are not easily found. I now use and empty "polycemment" bottle, as used for making plastic kits, with a 0.7mm bore metal needle. By putting long 0.6mm wire (mig welding wire) down it you can restrict the flow. BTW same wire can be used to clear the hard poly glue sticking in the tube. I now find most need re oiling once a year, ampmeter reading taken before and after running, I notice on average a reduction of amps of about 10% is noticed. I also listen carefully as they run and notice they run more smoothly. Constant and regular oiling is a very important job on keeping locomotives in excellent running order.

Yes you do the axles sometimes seize up solid. My late father left us a few HD models, he kept a R1 chassis with a Wills body he built in a glass cabinet for a few years over a central heating radiator. The axles were solid, despite using butane gas, drilling into the axle holes and injecting oil etc I just couldn't free the axles. The motor was ok as easy to undo, in the end forced the axles out and damaged the spined ends using a 10 ton hydraulic press used for car repairs. They seemed to be a lot of different metal to metal corrosion and a kind of saltly white powder. In the 70's he used a lot of peco "electrolube" as the main lubricant, I didn't like it as locos left over a few months just seem to run poorly, as I started to use my own layout and stock I used singer machine oil and even 3 in 1, these locos are still in use today

Thanks got it now "men shed" tomorrow

Thanks i looked at Ironmink but couldn't find roadrail stuff did however find a 16T mineral wagon download. 3 D pinting is the way forward, my underframe was made using 3mm uPVC scrap plastic from cutouts in electrical conduct systems. Ive access though local "men shed" 3D printing and its a long learning curve, however have noticed some really good value OOn9 3D printed stock for sale at local model shoes and toy fairs, when RTR manufacturers are charging up to £20 per wagon, at £1 each for almost the same wagon a 3D wagon unpainted and no wheels that might be the future or our hobby.

Ive got somewhere a WR fruit van in green with SR on the side purchased from a toy fair decade's ago. I assumed at the time they were Wrenn or Dapol bodies using "tempot" ? manufacture system to apply paint. Its the same system as used by most modern model railway manufacturers now. With the Dapol factory local to this area i come across at model railway shows and toy fairs quite a few Wrenn (old HD) bodies with all kinds of odd marking on. Ive come across some old stock where a rubber numerals (like old date stamps) are used to apply numbers with almost dry paint onto stock. I've experimented myself to tidy up HD numerals on locos and it works with some practice works quite well

Increasing hard to find unmade Scalecraft kits and as a result silly 2nd prices, however still come across cheaper bodies often without or missing under gear So here is recent scratch built effort Some differences to aid quicker and stronger unferframe, side triange holder one solid piece and cut out to allow tyre to fit higher up, solid tyre axle, Miniature screws as fastening these sourced from old mobile phones with star heads as they really look like axle hubs. Also use bigger wheels with pin point axles for better running Also looking at Railroader trailer for containers, read about these years ago can't find the article could even be American, I believe a few prototypes made, I've lots of containers. Also read one disadvantage was the extra weight of the rail wheel used on roads for both American and British versions, a method of adding a road wheel to the rail wheels was considered and prototype built so the rail axle became rigid and become a road wheel saving weight, looking at that method too

In my teens I cut open 6V lantern battery only to find 4 "D" 1.5V size batteries wired up in series, same with the 4.5V bell battery think they are 3 AA wired up in series. Currently use 3 AA 1.2 rechargeable in series to power door bell as cheaper than using mains power transformer with high cost of electy

Interesting as have seen some similar locos at a much lower prices at toy fairs often using meccano gears. Quite a few modellers in the late 40's and 50's made these. Iam sure somewhere prehaps on this forum a home made OO Bo-Bo loco chassis using a cordless drill motor claims to be the most powerfull OO loco ever made

I consider well built Kitmaster to be the best value for money coaches ever made for British OO, I've a few unbuilt kits and made myself a couple 45 years ago Unbuilt kits can command silly prices, but I do look out for well made 2nd hand examples, luckily this year, at a north west train fair, I came across and excellent collection and brought a few for far less than a modern single coach. Southern open in green with a triang buffer car both painted in southern green Close up showing just how much the flush windows of the Kitmaster looked better Recent purchases all had metal wheels with little brass bearing cups, they run very smooth and superb with no rocking and 12 coaches easily hauled by a Wrenn Duchess, plus the bogies accept both tension lock or Peco coupling. On these examples a wire loop system used making very close coupling. I have noticed slightly wider than most coaches, but just fits the gauge. Ive a Blue Pullman Kitchen was it the only Kitmaster "Kitchen" car made ? using Lima bogies, but now recently fitted bogies from a unbuilt kit, found the plastic ok used metal wheels and peco metal bearing.

Following this post decided to "test" a Hornby Dublo 0-6-0 diesel shunter to possible destruction since i now can rewind armatures. Quite surprised with results, took a boxed HD circa 1964 out of box, last used 2018 and run it, at first .60 amps @12v, then reoiled, it not easy as access is difficult. Load dropped to 0.30amps @12v free running, stayed like that after 20 minutes running both ways. Motot did get warm but thats common with HD, so did that smell. Then added 15 HD diecast wagons and ran slowly for about 15 mins each direction, no problems at 0.45 amps @10v , so learnt something they are quite strong, reliable motors and good on insolfrog points too, with no stalling, motor still warm with that usual smell of run in motor in the room. Prehaps they just need running in like instructions state.

Basically the same as the Hornby Dublo one and well known to over heat due to poor ventilation, its even mentioned in railway mags in early 60's. I've a few and on the whole good strong locos providing you don't run them continuously. So just use them as shunting engines. Even the Hornby Dublo are prone to burn out the armatures and they do get warm or even hot within minutes and tend to be high on current at least 0.60 amp. Worth checking armature nut is not too tight especially if hot and checking bottom bearings has not gummed up with certain oils or dried out I've had a few problems like this recently,

Found another "Ringfield " motor which for years was known to be "rough" on a another HD 8F 2 rail, however years ago the motor switched to a 3 rail one and not used much since then Higher ampage 0.7amp, vibration running on its own, poor starting, originally the motor had a high usage on childhood layout, again its possible over tighting magnet end screw, lack of lubricants or even gumming up of oil (peco electro lub used on mosy locos in 70's) Diagram 1 i reckon what it should look like end of shaft steel shaft in brass block with bearing at end, Diagram 2 is what gone wrong, bearing pushed out of place as much as shaft passed it and in a void Diagram 3 is the "2 bearing fix", simple and easy Result on second "Ringfield" instant, ampage down to 0.2 free no vibration, i also leave more play in armture. I agree with above comments Ringfields v's 1/2" motors over time, 1/2" been more reliable, look better easier to remag and better weight distribution over chassis ( too back heavy). However ive still got 1/2 dozen or so to keep running

Thunderbirds is been shown again on "Talking pictures" freeview ch 82 @3pm every Saturday. Watched 1st episode live yesterday, brilliant quality colour picture really enjoyed it

I've a Hornby Dublo WC fitted with a Ringfield motor which I've had from mid 1960's, unfortunately over the last 25 years its been a poor runner, it also had a tendency to come off on curves, most of its live spent in a box. Recently I've tried to fiqure out what the problem was, it recorded free running 1.20 amps @ 12v. A remag was done not easy or successful on Ringfield and got it down to 0.80amps @12v. Even disconnected motor recorded 0.75amps at 12v, it also seemed to vibrate, i suspected bottom bearing next to worm often the bearing gets lost or rusted up as only about 1mm in diameter. On stripdown using a magnifying glass could see bearing stuck to one side as if its drilled itself sidewards, the armature had burring on the end as you getting on pin punches. Quick fix was to put in a new bearing and deburr the armture shaft and try it out, instant success motor run at 0.25amps @12v, only slight hitch the top bearing mount now sticks out. It's been running like a dream easy pulling 9 Hornby Dublo coaches, and under the bible guide of 0.65amps @12v. How it happened manufacturing fault or careless maintenance years ago prehaps screwing down too hard the top bearing ?

Another "Polly" put into service, chassis with dud X04 motor purchased for £2, body acquired some years back 20p ? Motor X04 cleaned, it smelt like been in an attic for years, and repaired, broken brush. Chassis cut back to lower body by 2mm same buffer height as Hornby Dublo, wheels pulled out a bit for code 100. Quite a bit of metal removed front and back, this allows other bodies to fit and be lowered In past I've cut using hack saw and file, this time mounted in a milling machine at local "men's shed", lot easier

Interesting to read the replies to this thread, in my teens I started building white metal K's kits and Wills, experience has shown us the Wills kits on standard RTR Chassis have stood the test of time as nearly all were triang or Hornby Dublo. While the K's kits have failed motors, wheels value gear etc. I also have a copy of the Guy Williams ( of Pendon frame) Loco construction in 4mm scale, somwhere he mentions X04 motors as a kind of standard for Pendon stock I tend to agree on that