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Porkscratching

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  1. So..how 've goink to 'vin ze 'var mit zese tiny tanks Herr Leutnant ?
  2. The kit I have for one of these is the Miniart version..looks very detailed and a good representation of the real thing.. l will probably use wire rod rather than the thin plastic rods that come with the kit ( which would likely break when removing from the kit sprues anyway)
  3. On the contrary, those are most interesting !... gives an idea as to what's going on inside the box, much appreciated.
  4. I found an Aussie version on the same principle, they're hefty weights certainly..
  5. Looks like the wires run into a box at the base of the signal, presumably inside are cranks or pulleys that work the rods or wires going up to the signal....
  6. Good stuff ! It appears too that the wires just run straight into the signal itself, thru the pulley bearing brackets, as per Grovenor's diagram. I'm awaiting the signal kit to see what's there...hopefully two nice pulleys ready for the wires !
  7. There's some good and interesting stuff there to study gents, many thanks.. From the modelling perspective, I'm looking for some images, as yet elusive, showing how the wire system connects at the base of the signal, so i can have some viable looking 'hardware' running along the track and 'working' the signal. This is purely cosmetic as it doesn't have to actually operate the signal which would be fixed / static.
  8. That's brilliant, many thanks, I wasn't having much luck on t'internet myself !
  9. I'm wondering how the old style German "lollypop" type signals were operated, in the sense of how to represent this "on the ground" I haven't been able to find any pics showing whatever rods, wires, pulleys (or elec. cables ) etc would be present and how they were conveyed from signal box to the signal itself
  10. More window frames / glazing.. A bit quicker today as I'd had practice on the last lot!
  11. Rather minor and uninteresting progress here, tho I have started a Tiger tank project too so not wholly idle ! Did a bit of fiddly photo etch, the little frames around the cab front glass, the apertures for these needed filing open to fit. The prototype units could open and shut of course, swivelling on a central axis, probably not worth replicating a working version as you couldn't reach them to open and close once the model's made anyway !. ..window units will need a bit more fitting / fettling when glue's set properly
  12. I felt the need to do a trial dry fit of the cab parts to see if they fit together squarely ( or indeed at all !) According to someone else who researched these locos quite closely (and built a much modified model ) the cab is the most accurate rendition in this kit. ...oddly enough it did kind of fit together ok, aided by sellotape and after some slight butchering of parts, (naturally) plus gluing a block of wood inside the boiler back head which was splayed apart at the edges a quite bit... If I was reviewing this kit I'd give it 3 out of 10 for fit and finish of parts frankly. I've carved all the dodgy detail off the above part ready for various aftermarket detail bits. I also for a lark, (and the sake of morale) balanced the whole thing thus far together, on the "bog roll tube", for the full Blue Peter effect !
  13. Good thought, I must get some graph paper anyway as I've a few plastic card "shapes" I need to lay out..
  14. That's a great idea, gives a good positive location to mark or even drill thru....
  15. As per title, has anyone any good dodges and tips..? I'm needing to index and mark out all round the circumference by the back edge of a smokebox, for drilling and riveting. Drilling will be "fun" too using the 0.8mm drills I need to use. This would look awful if done wrong and the final holes need to be spot on...any advice gratefully received ! I'm replicating the plastic thing in the pic, probably using tin for the smokebox, but the rivets will likely be plastic, with shanks, (as that's what I have)... hence the need to drill the holes.
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