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Geordie Exile

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    The very, very western Highlands

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  1. Hmm. Is it time to make a decision about track? It's suddenly crowded.
  2. It's been a while since I posted any progress. The buildings are pretty much unchanged, but I've been looking at a track plan, and at the most suitable way of building that track in 2mmFS. And while toying with the options, I've also doubled the rolling stock fleet. From 1 to 2. This is the beautifully detailed 21t hopper from Fencehouses: fiddly indeed for a beginner like me, but immensely satisfying to build, and actually prototypical for the pit. Just need a hundred or so more, of various types. Including the signature wagon for which I guess the only real solution is learning how to use a CAD package and create an etch. Meantime, baby steps such as this...
  3. @Caledonian, @doilum - I've just found a Flickr album with another 70 photos of the various rolling stock at Fenwick - here - and interestingly, the first two photos show the same loco (probably taken within minutes of each other looking at the location and the set it's pulling) as either green or blue! I'm obviously going to have to be careful.
  4. Happened to pick up a rattle can of red oxide primer today, as I've a few wagons in the pipeline. Saying that, the first batch are likely to be the 21t hoppers that only ever turn up on the photos as various shades of grey!
  5. Where's the kit from? The 'interior' detail is great, and worth saving for a rake of empties just to show it off.
  6. Going to be watching this thread with interest as a 2mmFS newbie. As my layout is (ok, will be) a colliery, I think there's enough track/ground mank to get away with almost invisible sleepers. From what I've been reading soldered PCB sleepers are more forgiving when it comes to pointwork, so I think I'm heading down that route. For the less grimy runs, Easitrac gives the sleeper detail and the daylight below the rails, and I'll just have to deal with the height difference when I get to it.
  7. I hadn't thought of the photographic process enhancing the colour. Although I've got umpteen different image sources, they're all taken very late 60s and early 70s, so it's possible (probable? likely?) they've been through a similar production process. Red oxide it is!
  8. The Vallejo ModelAir Red (specifically, this shade: 71.269) looks pretty close. I'd rather not mix, as that means I'd have to store unused mixed paint separately, and be able to replicate it (close to) exactly when I run out. Has anyone else had any success in replicating the NCB Wagon Red?
  9. The heapstead, picking belts, screens, washery, and that enormous building at the back of all of these (the purpose of which I still haven't worked out) were all demolished pretty soon after the pit closed. The winding house, boiler room, offices, baths and stores remained until the site was earmarked for development, at which point everything was razed apart from the winding house. It's the only one on that latter list that had any architectural value, but it isn't actually listed. The current plans are for an 'executive housing development', with the winding house as a centre-piece, although I'm not clear what they're thinking of doing with it. Thanks for the compliment, by the way! R
  10. Thanks, Doilum, I'll look it out. I may well re-paint this practice wagon anyway, and I need to order some NCB transfers.
  11. The wheel was sent to me by a very kind member of this forum, along with a dodgy etch for me to practise on (you can see incomplete wheel in the photo in the OP). Unfortunately they're too small for my colliery, but they're too beautiful not to use somehow! I'll think of something. I think on the next version I'll do as you suggest, ream out the hole in the centre of all the pieces and use that as a combined shaft/jig. I'll give the larger bit a try too. Thanks for this: as I've said to Izzy, for my next go at this specific model, I'll use a central shaft to hold all the pieces in place, but I may give the softwood jig a go in other future attempts. Genius and simplicity combined! I'll get some lower melting point solder to add to my armory. Wouldn't have worked in this case, but I've come across this recommendation a few times: I think Eileen's Emporium sells them too, and I'm making a shopping list. I already had the damp-sponge thing on my stand, so thought I wouldn't bother, but again I've seen the brass wool recommended in favour of sponges (and they're echoed in the reviews on the Amazon link you provided) so I'm adding a brass-wool holder to my shopping list. Never heard of tinning compound, but I'll look some out. As ever, thanks to the good folk of RMW for the advice. Richard
  12. Thanks, BoD. Nice work on your West Highland stuff too (may I offer "Nether Crianlarich" as an option?). I have gone through the agonies of spotting errors post-build as well!
  13. I've not done much in the last couple of weeks, except: - Played with my new airbrush, so my single 2mmFS wagon is now painted. I messed about trying to mix NCB red from tubes of acrylic, and gave up. I've therefore gone with Nondescript Manky (from the Farrow & Ball range ). - Added guttering, downpipes and the huge stove pipe to the winder house. No one will be able to see that I've scrawked out 1mm half rod so the gutter is u-shaped rather than semicircular, but I know it's done!
  14. Hi DT. I've edited the original post to include some more details. Solder is Silverline 60/40 and I'm using tiny amounts of flux paste applied with the end of a cocktail stick. R
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