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  1. Chasewater Railway in Staffordshire. Never been there - I'll do my best to change that!
  2. Hi Phil, I'd like that a idea a lot. I will do my best! I'd love to visit some of the heritage railways too! Amanda
  3. Sadly it is not free trade yet. I now need to pay VAT plus import duties on top of whatever I buy the item for, which has struck my preferred way to get locos and kits - ebay Uk - really hard. Hopefully we get a real free trade agreement sometime soon. The extra expense may be the thing that tips me back into 4mm.
  4. Wow! It's been a minute! I'm still here, just life has not been as conducive to model making as I might like. However, I have primed the Midland van and the GWR bogie bolster, and progress continues on the LMS van. The LMS van should be built this week, but getting buffers, etc., may take some time, as Brexit is still complicating purchases somewhat. Hopefully we can work past that soon! Amanda
  5. I think this is likely what it is. Now that I look at the pictures even, it looks ok. I'll give it a shot of primer and then judge.
  6. The ends have been constructed, and the frame has had solebar overlays and all safety loops soldered up and installed. All that remains now is to built the brake cylinder and do the rivets, and styrene is on the way for both items! A few bits of door hardware and details like lamp irons and label clips will be fettled up and added today, I think. I do wonder if the door hardware and rollers at the top of the doors looks too large though? Even my LMS diagrams books has no dimensions for those parts so I "eyeballed" them, and they look ok, but... are they too large?
  7. Ah, thanks much guys! I have an old Rotring compass someplace, I can give that a go. That circle cutter (the DSP one) looks like a good one to add when the budget permits, as I plan to start building engines too, which have lots of round bits! I'll stick with my fret saw and a good file in brass for now - a lathe will be arriving sometime, but unlikely to be soonish. As much of what I need to cut is smallish (cylinder heads, vacuum cylinder parts, etc) I do need a good cutter. If it's expensive but lasts a lifetime, it isnt so expensive after all. Thank you again! Amanda
  8. Hi folks. As my scratchbuilding ramps up, I find myself facing a new challenge - how do I cut perfect circles in plastic or brass sheet? is there a circle cutter or something one can use, or do I need to just trace a line with a compass and then try to file and fettle to the line? Spinning in circles, Amanda
  9. I cannot speak highly enough of the quality of both the kits and the service. I am actually tempted to switch to LNER just so I can build some of his loco kits! I mean, an Atlantic tank and a nice 0-6-0 would be plenty of power for something East Anglia-ish... ahem.
  10. A good soldering station is something every modeller needs and beyond that, the only tools required are ones you already own if you've built a plastic kit! I'm sure its more approachable than you think. Amanda
  11. The underframe is basically built, save the aforementioned brake cylinder and the solebar overlays. The overlays I will make next, and the vacuum cylinder i will make from some 11mm styrene tube I thinks.
  12. Does anyone have a few 18 inch brake cylinders surplus to requirements? I need at least two for this van, plus an upcoming LNER van. I'd be happy to buy a pair (or one) if anyone has one to part with. Amanda
  13. More people from the Netherlands! Groetjes Bas! Welkom bij RMWeb. I'm eager to see some of your modelling! Amanda (from Heerlen!)
  14. The only thing I use for making sure bodies are square is a small 3 inch engineer's try square. Get one. Better, get two. Seriously, the tool of 1001 uses. AManda
  15. Hi John, The big thing about 7mm is I cannot run very large engines and all (now) but it sure is easier for me. The fact I do not need to disassemble already nicely operating locomotives to get something more or less to scale, coupled with the easier detailing and all, is a pretty big (no pun intended) plus. I'll probably drill holes and use plastic rod bits for the rivets. I mean... I've come this far. May as well continue! Amanda
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