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    Peterborough
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    Rugby, music, caravanning and now model railways

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  1. What I was suggesting does not involve curved points. Taking the top right crossover as an example what you have is something akin to example A below. You could instead opt for example B, using one point of the opposite hand, which then means you do not have the S bend coming round the curve, and thn through the crossover.
  2. It looks like it may be possible to smooth some of the S-snakes by changing the outermost RH/LH points on the top and bottom lines, for Opposite-hand ones, and moving them out a little so that they are built into the approach curves.Doing so wouldn’t alter the sequencing of the various x-overs but would smooth the entry routes.
  3. Thanks guys, penny is dropping now. I’m using DCC Concepts ADSX turnout motor switches on the second part of the layout (upper level terminus), and instructions on those do state that it is possible that one would need to reverse the frog polarity wires connected to the DCC bus. It was that in a way that confused me, as it got me thinking maybe the Autofrogs (on first part of layout) would also be similar. Now I belatedly appreciate that although the frog polarity task is the same for both devices, the way they do it is completely different. Hence my concern was off target. one lives
  4. Hi as a relative beginner, I’d like to check my understanding on the effect of using Gaugemaster autofrogs with motorised Peco live frog points. Logic suggest to me that if using a multimeter on these points, I should see an indication of DCC voltage between the outer rail of the point, and the frog section, only in the direction the turnout is set to. And conversely, no voltage on the other rail exit? And of course vice versa when the turnout direction is changed. Its not that I have a particular problem with locos negotiating points (apart from one - see below), but on check
  5. There’s also the added cost to consider with N. I guess one could debate whether individual items are more expensive (as an 00 user, I’m only an N spectator) but if you use the added space with N to make the track plan more complex, that’s more track, more points, more point motors(?) , etc. Unless you were pretty disciplined in your planning, and managed to maintain lots of wide open spaces.
  6. Probably a little obvious but does this happen when the loco is running in same direction through the point but opposite way round? Or indeed, what happens when loco runs through point in opposite direction? The answers may give some clues....... In my limited experience, and not with this loco, but when an odd loco didn’t like a point that others were ok with, (but others points and this loco combinations were ok) I found on a couple of occasions, the issue seemed to be the point was not sitting quite flat - I’d managed to lay it with a slight twist, due to untrue baseboard.
  7. Following this thread with interest, as I will soon be attempting my first ever efforts at ballasting. I think I’ll play around with a piece of dummy track on a board first. When it comes to ballasting points, how exactly do folk keep the tie bar area clear of stray ballast? Is it possible to mask it in any way? I have underboard point motors, with a 10mm hole for the point rod movement in tiebar. Any tips for approach on that area?
  8. That’s not my experience of Anyrail. Maybe it depends on settings, but my pieces of track, or track combinations, snap together with a visual indicator of when properly connected. I agree practice helps, and it’s not always easy to align the angles of tracks to baseboard edge. Should add that I don’t consider myself an expert, just someone who has learnt From the YouTube videos and discovery through experimentation.
  9. Try entering Anyrail into Youtube. You’ll find several options.
  10. Have you looked at the various Heathcote Electronics products, which could possibly be adapted to what you’re after? (No connection except etc ....) I have their simple IRDOT1, which I use to indicate occupancy on hidden loops. It works well, but better when facing a black background.
  11. True, although I’m not sure I spotted whether it was D.C. or DCC.
  12. I switched to electrofrog for similar reasons to yours, and chose to use Gaugemaster auto frog devices (there are other makes) which switch the polarity of the frog according to direction set. This means the whole frog is either one way or the other, but no matter how wheels pass through the frog, it is the ‘right’ polarity. Of course, using insulating breaks on the two inner exiting rails is essential.
  13. I tried the Peco ones, on my return to this hobby, but couldn’t really get on with them. Much more expensive, but work better, I use Heathcote Electronics ones, which use a below-board servo to raise the ramp. Height, depth and duration are all modifiable. No connection except satisfied customer.
  14. These maybe..... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gasea-Adjustable-Baseboard-Levelling-Furniture/dp/B07GLRNH5Y/ref=sr_1_38?crid=2EIQS6CLFQQAU&dchild=1&keywords=adjustable+legs&qid=1605297900&sprefix=Adjustable+leg%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-38
  15. Certainly looks good, Gordon. My own similar panel design is getting there. I did stick with using Dibond, printed by a local printer. My concerns over cleanness of holes were alleviated when I bought new drill bits! Luckily, my printer made a mistake of thinking I wanted 2 copies, so I got a spare FOC. So, I then used the surplus panel, in which my holes were much better. I did decide to go for 7mm holes, mainly because I found centring the LED in 6.5mm holes tricky, without it compromising/fouling the insertion of the bezel from above. There was more room for error in 7mm holes!
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