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trucknightmares

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  1. Hi all, I've recently downsized from OO to N gauge, but can't make up my mind on a layout design. Attached is a SCARM representation of my baseboard with dimensions and a basic Peco Setrack loop shown. Layout will be DCC with 2nd radius curves for the overall loop (as shown). I'd prefer the terrain to remain flat as I'm hopeless with terrain modelling and inclines. The perimeter loop would be for both passenger and freight services, with internal sidings/marshalling yard for shunting wagons etc. Current locos: DRS-liveried Class 68 DB Schenker Class 60. Current Rolling Stock: 3x SPA Steel Coil Wagon Potential Future Purchases: Class 08 or Class 20 for shunting DMU or Mk1/Mk3 coaches (to go with the Class 68) for passenger services various hoppers, box and aggregate wagons Any help would be greatly appreciated. Gareth.
  2. Wow, it's been a while since I checked this topic due to work commitments, however, i have now finialised my layout on a baseboard. Fully DCC via Hornby elink and a Windows 8 Tablet. I'll eventually raise it up to allow the wiring to be underneath and out of sight, although with some strategic trunking, I could always ballast over it...
  3. You're probably right, the amount is spend to convert it, would prob get me a decent secondhand model!
  4. Thanks for the advice guys, I think if I'm going to convert any of then, it'll more than likely be the 08.
  5. Thanks for the idea - my plan is for the inner loop to be one way (anti-clockwise) with the outer loop for shunting (leaving the mainline clear) and for locos to rejoin the inner loop. My own thoughts are attached. 4A = 4 aspect signal F = Route feather or Theatre display GP = Ground Position signal RC = Red/Caution shunt signal My main concern is where would ground position signals normally be used.
  6. The pantograph is a manual raise/lower so can easily be left in the lowered position.
  7. That's all I needed to know - thanks! And other members' responses have been very insightful so thanks to them also.
  8. Ok guys, lots of info to process... I'm running all Hornby in OO gauge with DCC to be via Hornby RailMaster and eLink. But from the comments here and my own research, I'll stick to the 86 being a display model - I've started a conversion topic just in case
  9. It is possible to convert the following locos to dcc: Class 08 shunter Photos: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1-8MuSPknLRSNq7fAF_Xw8VdZIlb2Rz2B Class 47 Photos: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1-9Dp6TYlsc8TLfAkDeHpKUiZ7ZFjsgM3 Class 86 (with working pantograph) Photos: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1-Ihm1fI-i6IUBjBwhWAwthTEeyh_ixyP Although they've been in storage for last 20+ years, all still work on an analogue layout.
  10. That's what I was initially trying to work out - but didn't know if DCC used one rail as positive and the other as negative or of they changed depending on loco direction. I've not used dcc before so still trying to figure things out - the fact I still need to build a baseboard doesn't help either!
  11. Well, I'm confused, but laughing. I've got 3 locos, class 08, 47 and an 86 (with working pantograph). I'll think about conversion, but as I'm looking at a dcc fitted class 68, I'll keep these as static for the maintenance shed I'm planning to add.
  12. Ok thanks. It was just a thought as I think the loco are too old to be converted (20+ years) so was looking for alternatives. Guess I'll stick to swapping the motorised bogie for non-motorised so there'll be no resistance when being shunted around.
  13. Still in layout building stage, so sorry if this has been asked already, but... Does the track polarity remain constant on dcc? If so, is there any reason I can't/shouldn't run my analogue loco using overhead cantenery wires as the positive (and connected to an analogue controller) and the track as negative, thus allowing me to run alongside a dcc loco? At present, looking to swap the motorised bogie for a trailing bogie allowing free movement for ease of shunting.
  14. Hi, Yeah, I'm not worried about the main loop as I've some leftover straight pieces, but it's the yard area and signal type/position that I've been trying to get my head around.
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